Speaker upgrade

10" kicker hideaway will not fit under the seats. 8" will. However, the powered rockford fosgate I linked will pound much harder for about the same price.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/anyone-used-the-kicker-hideaway-10-version.708605/#post-25173113

 

So if I want to modify the passenger seat, I just...

Take it out, flip it upside down and hit it with a sawzall?

Would it hurt the seat? Make it floppy or anything? Driver seat seams pretty rigid enough.

 

That's surprising, because my box of similar dimensions does. I would question whether those who say that removed the seat for the install, but I don't see how one can install one without removing the seat.

 

I put seat jackers on my passenger seat to make room. It also raised the seat up even with where I keep the driver seat height set.

 

Is there a thread on this? Im newly back in a taco and the multitude of rabbit holes is endless for 3rd gens. But my rears sound like they are blown they are so quiet even when faded rear only.

 

I upgraded my audio and man am I glad that I did. First up was the (Subaru kicker tweeters for the dash,$90.00 true plug and play.) Next was the( kicker door speakers 6 & 1/2 fronts and 6& 3/4 rears.$67.00 a pair) Sounded ok but still flat. Then came the (Pioneer WMH-WT3800NEX $589.00) with an (

$220 Alpine KTA450 Alpine KTA-450 4-Channel Power Pack Amplifier with Dynamic Peak Power 45W RMS x 4, at 2 Or 4 Ohms

Alpine KTA450 amp$200.00) Maestro and some twisted pair rca cables. Tuned it myself and this things sounds great. (Not as good as my Subaru with the Focal speakers but pretty damned good for the $$. All in $1200.00 including the Maestro install kit. I did alter the Trim bezel to make it more flush fit. I am going to look into a bezel out of one with the JBL system, they have an 8" screen as opposed to the 7" that came in my SR. The new unit is a 9" screen with WCP.

 

any issues with the Karr alarm removal? Dealership refused to not have on when I bought my 2020. but overall 5k under market so net gain my way. Would really like to not have it anymore though.

 

you wouldnt happen to have part numbers?

 

I'm just copying and pasting here. I think there were a few posts in the premium audio upgrade for less than $250 thread discussing the 8" vs. the 10" powered subs and the placement of them. I recall a few placing them in the rear storage cubby's as opposed to under the seats.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/premium-audio-upgrade-for-less-than-250.510424/

Wow that looks nice! Half the price of the 6600nex too.

 

Couple of placement options for the 8" rockford fosgate...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/realistic-need-for-kicker-hideaway.684048/page-2#post-28467125

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/realistic-need-for-kicker-hideaway.684048/page-2#post-28468269

 

I got a JL audio stealth box for my 2020 access cab with a jl 400w amp, kept the head unit and stock spkrs(all) and it rocks and sounds fine to me. The JL audio stealth box replaces the center console in back so it looks all stock. Box was 700 amp was 300, well worth it.

 

I have JL Stealth Box also. Really easy install…fits like a glove. And sounds great. It’s expensive but just looks like it belongs there. Also, try to find the seam on the carpet covering…really high quality fabrication.

 

I did make a thread back when I did it like 2 years ago but deleted it after people said it would blow my radio. 2 years later still going strong. I would definitely replace the rear speakers well I did all of them,the cheapest speakers you will ever see is in there.
I’ll get you some pics it’s pretty easy of what I did.

 

None. Took probably 20 minutes for them. Cost me 80 bucks. Too old & now disabled so it was worth it to me.

 

1. Kicker 46CSC652
2. .Kicker 46CSC672
3. $220 Alpine KTA-450 4-Channel Power Pack Amplifier with Dynamic Peak Power 45W RMS x 4, at 2 Or 4 Ohms
   Alpine KTA-450 Power Pack
4. Pioneer DMH-WT3800NEX
5. iDatalink HRN-HRR-TO3
   iDatalink Maestro RR Interface Module
6. 
   a good pair of short rca cables to connect the pre outs to the amplifier.
7. you will have to build the harness for the factory speaker connection to the new head unit. Black connector to splice it together with the head unit connector minus the speaker wires.
   

1. 
   

 

I finally got a pic of this again. This is behind passenger side kick panel.
Connect front to rears. surround sound now.

Pull the front plug. Find the two wires twisted together blue/ gray on my 2020. pull back the loom find the wires skin back the wire 1/2" or so to reveal the copper wire. go to next step.







Find the r rear plug from pic above...peel back the loom....find the 2 wires twisted together.... my 2020 was blue/light green.... cut these wires not so close where you can't put them back if necessary (you will not hook up the wires from the connector these just stay unhooked...grab a new piece of wire connect rear wire to the front wire previously found. I soldered mine in the you could t-tap for a test or leave it this way. Repeat same on drivers side I didn't take any pics of that side its pretty easy to figure out the plugs and wires. You now have the front signal on the rears. Ive had mine like this over 2 years no issues and I listen to my music around 35-40 volume...pretty loud, for anyone that says this will smoke the radio.

 

My 2 cents: Buy or build yourself a harness but don’t splice into factory wire. Besides other issues you may be setting yourself up for, down the road you may want to go back to the original wiring (to sell your truck) or maybe improve upon what you’ve already done. It will be easier to move forward if you follow standard practices.

 

I am surprised you get a good signal at all to that woofer using the rear speaker feed. That is the whole complaint with the rear speakers, HU delivers very little power or bass back there.

 

I agree, but it's because it uses the speaker level inputs, it only needs very little signal going to it. The amp in the Sub adds the volume/gain. And it does it surprisingly well.

 

Some cheap harness that you bought or made isn’t going to be a better connection than a soldered wire and you wasted a ton of time making it.