Speakers

I thought I remember seeing on here somewhere people were talking about mounting 6" speakers on our trucks.
Think it may have been these: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-T16-S-Component-Speaker/dp/B008IB8RNA?th=1

If so, what kind of bracket or modification would I need to do? Has anyone done this and do you see a lot of improvement in the lows? I've soundproofed my doors but would really like a little more "oomph" with bass in the music. I put all 4 new speakers in my truck, but just the stock size. I understand it may be counter-productive considering I may hear more rattles lol.

I don't want to add a sub. I don't need/want that much bass, not to mention trying to fit a big ass sub somewhere. I'd rather avoid adding an amplifier but not sure if it's required. I have a pioneer DEH-X3910BT that I installed.

It seems to make a big difference having 6" speakers, I notice it sounds a lot better with the 4x6" speakers I put in my camry. (which is only a year newer fyi)

Is it possible/realistic to do something like this? Mounting in front or rear?

I can do basic wire splicing, but some audio threads are over my head as far as how to setup.

 

If you're willing to take off the plastic magazine holder things on the door panels, you can pretty much fit anything you want there, just measure depth because the window rails sit behind iirc.

Diameter is not indicative of sound quality though.

 

I put these Kickers in the rear speaker positions:


All I need...

 

Here's the numbers for the Polk door speakers and the Kicker rear panel speakers.

 

Do you notice better bass?

I put JBL 3 way speakers in the front which seem to be doing alright. Those kickers look like 6 3/4, did they still fit ok in existing hole (as well as the backspace). Also did they come with a mounting bracket?

May be simpler to improve the speakers in the back that way I don't have to worry about the window moving etc

 

OP if you want someone to tell you exactly what to get, go to Crutchfield.com and it will tell you what's compatible. If you want the best for your application, I can tell you what to look for in speaker specs but its going to require some thinking and research on your part. If you want any good response under 80Hz, you need a sub.

 

If I did that, all they would say is what is compatible, that's exactly why I made the post - to see what else others have done with little modification to install. Any good "response" is subjective. Again, I'm trying to see what is possible without installation of a subwoofer, so that isn't helping.

 

Way better bass, and they do fit in the existing space. I just drilled the necessary holes in the existing plastic, and used black sheet metal screws to hold the speakers. The existing speaker cover then goes right back on.

 

I just did these in both my 99's. I added a ton of Noico sound deadening material (3 boxes for 2 trucks) to the door panels (like 3-4 layers on the sheet metal) and also on the inside panel. Also bought new OEM plastic weather liners, lubed all the window components, lubed all the lock/latch components, new interior weather stripping. Buy the eBay door panel clips as you will break a bunch.
Bass is decent, clarity is 1000 times better. Fit is pretty easy with the included brackets. Road noise went way down too.

Front: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R6530CM/Infinity-Reference-REF-6530cx.html?omnews=10537337
Rear: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R6532EM/Infinity-Reference-REF-6532ex.html?omnews=10537337

 

Do both. With my Pioneer it was blowing the stock speakers by itself even with bass turned all the way down. You can get by with just the front but doing 4 makes it sound incredible. They give great bass even with my sub turned off. No I didn't use an amp for the speakers.
memphis speaker at Crutchfield I used Memphis

 

Actually its very scientific and objective, but go off...

Again, why go "little modification" when you can look at the specs and get better/what you want with compatibility. I don't see where the disconnect is.

 

@MikeWH .
Would your crossovers not fit with the covers on?? Thats a great idea to mount them on the back . Are you worried about them getting wet?

 

Correct, they didn't quite fit with the covers, and I took off the covers and realized they didn't really provide any weather protection anyways. I did the red truck about a year ago, but the picture is from last week (I forgot how I did them and wanted to duplicate my methods on the white truck haha), and if you look carefully you can see the terminal screws getting a little rusty. So I ended up coating the entire crossover in the spray-on liquid electrical tape. I sprayed it on after the wires were connected, etc so that it covered the terminals and everything. Several light coats is key. Also the crossovers have double-side tape between them and the plastic speaker plates to avoid rattling, and are secured by two screws/nut with thread locker.

 

KGW: That's awesome. That's basically what I'm going for, something slightly bigger to help with bass and easy to mount. Does that mount for the speaker, come with the speaker?

MIKEWH: Very true about those plastic clips. I've dealt with that before, they are super fragile, I bought one of those ebay bags of them previously. I've put soundproofing on both doors. Also, I can't seem to locate a door rattle, driver's side, seems like where the door lock (push/pull) is... any idea on that? Really annoying.
With those speakers you got, looks like you have to mount the tweeter separately?
That "crossover", that you mounted on the back of the black plastic piece that the speaker is attached to, did you order that with the speakers...?

ben20004x4: When you say both, are you talking about mounting 6" speakers in the front, as well as the back?

 

There are several linkages in that area. I replaced the white clip that holds the horizontal pull rod from the interior door handle as it always seem brittle, and the rod is very long so prime candidate for rattling. The window tracks also get lose, so tighten all of their mounting bolts while you have the door apart (some are visible in the jamb without disassembly so start there). Could also be the lock/unlock plung as it is rod inside a plastic sleeve (slim jim prevention I think). Lastly evaluate your gears/linkage for the powoer windows. The rivets, etc can get wallowed out to the point where they are rattling. I greased the gear and all the tracks/rollers with a clear grease and it helps with noise while running the window.

Yes I chose what they call a "component" system where the tweeter is mounted in a different spot than the woofer. It helps with stereo positioning as our speakers are very low so your leg covers them which muffles higher frequencies. It also means you get a real crossover (instead of just a capacitor as you would with a 2-way all in one speaker). The tweeter is mounted on the door panel up above the arm rest (I don't have a pic handy but I can take one if you'd like). I think this make a better speaker system and there was a sale both times that I bought them so it wasn't much of a price difference. The labor is a bit higher though! That crossover has an input from your stereo or amp, and then an output for the tweeter, and one for the woofer. Check out my Crutchfield links in my post above as they have great photos of what you are getting.

If all of this is too much and you just want an all in one, my link for the "rear" speakers will work in the front just fine, and if you end up not liking them you can put them in the rear and get a component system in the front. The rear speakers on these trucks are in a sort of enclosure that actually has a decent bass enhancement so don't forget about them back there.

 

@ssoulssurfer
If you order the components from crutchfeild it comes with the adapter. Or there's a guy who sells them also. Or you can make them out of thin cutting boards also.

 

Ok thanks a lot guys.

MikeWH: I'll have to look at the plastic clip you're talking about. I bet you're right that rod is part of the problem with the noise. When I had the doors off before, I tried tapping around to find the noise to no avail. I'll have to take another look. The plastic sleeve around the plastic pull lock, and the pull lock itself, seemed like there was play in there, I was able to tighten that lock slightly before. I replaced the whole interior door handle previously with an OEM, which I think had a little white piece where the rod connects... not talking about that are you?

Think like you're saying, I'll just have to go back in there and just start throwing grease everywhere too.

The component system sounds great (no pun intended ha), but to mount that tweeter you probably have to cut a whole in the door to mount it then right?

 

If it didn't come with one yes. Or you can try and find some 3rd gen 4runner door sail tweeter pods

 

That is the oem mounting point for the rear speakers; it works great for the new speakers.
The Kickers fit right under the oem grilles: