Speedytech7's 1993 Land Cruiser FZJ80 - The ShortBus

https://www.pittstopautotx.com/mobile/mImagesAll.aspx?cmb=0|27207647|1006835

 

Those recovered seats in that rig look beautiful. I've already decided if my seats crack I'm putting in cloth ones from an earlier model. I don't much like the leather anyway

 

I don't think I ever posted my new exhaust for the LC, the old one had a mishap involving me climbing a grade with a trailer slightly over the weight limit and 4000rpm in 2nd gear. The exhaust got toast, but the truck stayed cool haha.

0630181544 by Zane, on Flickr

0630181544a by Zane, on Flickr

0630181545 by Zane, on Flickr

0630181545b by Zane, on Flickr

https://youtu.be/Ztpwf3MvLMU?t=10

https://youtu.be/xQkHY7vRCMI

This one is dual high flow Flowmaster cats, a single Magnaflow 18" muffler, and it's all 2.5" tubing this time around, no crushed section like stock where it routes over the axle. I'll have a Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonator put in next time I'm in the neighborhood to cut a tad more of the drone but it is already pretty pleasant.

 

Looks expensive but sounds awesome. Doesn't seem like you'd need that resonator, except maybe for long grades at 4,000+ rpms.

 

They are only expensive if you drink the 80 kool aid that says you need to buy everything from Slee, etc... If you are willing to fab, they are super reasonably cost effective to build... Aside from the fuel bill.

F/R main, valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals, distributor o-ring, oil pump o-ring (right by the front main), and rebuild the PS pump with the OEM kit if it is leaking from the rear like many of them do. PHH bypass too

 

Surprisingly not that bad in the cost dept. $350 all said and done. Took em 4 hours. The resonator is kinda needed, I sit at 2750 on the highway at 70 and almost 3k at 80. All this on an engine that only revs to 5k haha.

 

I just did the Valve cover, dizzy ring, spark tubes. As well as the PHH which was a miserable day but at least it failed in my driveway, even did the Gates green hose and fancy clamps. I will definitely do the PS pump and oil pump rebuilds, sounds like the best time to get at em. Should I order replacement screws for the oil pump cover?

 

Oil pump doesn't need to be rebuilt unless you have oil pressure problems, which probably is your mains if you do, I've never heard of oil pump wear on the 1FZ even with 400k+.... Just throw a new o-ring on the oil pump cover and call it good.

I was able to get the oil pump cover screws out fine and reuse with a really well fitting bit and 1/4" drive impact. I was paranoid about rounding them out too.

 

Ok well that's good news. According to the dash gauge pressure is exactly as it should be, so just a new oring.

 

Yep! How big of an impact do you have to get the crank bolt out?

 

I've got a breaker bar and the starter haha, but I can borrow a 3/4" impact if need be. I suppose my 1/2" could probably get it too, haven't been stumped by one yet

 

The bolt laughed at my starter and breaker bar. My 1/2" impact was able to get it, but it's rated to 1100 ft-lbs and still was a little bit of a fight. My buddy wasn't able to get his out with a 1/2" impact turned up way past its recommended air setting. Probably worth pulling the radiator and making sure you can get the bolt out before you go on with disconnecting everything else to pull the motor

 

Took a nice pic of it...

 

It got washed.

 

Washed, clay barred, and waxed

 

Nice. Mine needs some buffing.

 

Man that paint looks good!

 

Thanks, it was repainted a year and a half ago. They did a nice job though and used Toyota paint.

 

I’m hoping to keep my paint a little longer. Spending my money on other parts at the moment. I made the mistake of adding up my parts spend since the first of the year.

However, LRA 37 gallon gas tank is the bomb.

 

Dude, better hang on to the 80. They just went up in value today: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-80-Series/254161476775