Sprint Booster = limp mode ?

hey guys. I just installed my sprint booster I got yesterday. On two separate occasions, I've had the truck go into limp mode with it on. Setting was both times at race 9. V6 manual in 2WD mode.

Both times I'm trying to make a right turn to merge into traffic going around 50. So I need to mash it to get going. Both times, I start to move, and stop quickly Bc I'm a scaredy cat or whatever and don't think I can pull out into traffic safely. Truck immediately goes limp, check engine light comes on. Message about brake malfunction something and visit the dealer.

I feel it is because I am on the accelerator, hit the brake and then back on the accelerator before the sprint booster computer sends the correct signal. This has never happened in 12k miles before the booster installed.

I'm resetting it now, and going to bump down to race 8 and see if it does it again.

Anyone experience this before? Or can enlighten me as to what I'm doing wrong?

 

Throw that garbage into the trash can

 

Uh, I don't know but that sounds really dangerous. I'd take that thing off if I were you, get the OVTune instead.

 

Take it down a notch and see if it still does it. I leave my PC on sport all the time and i've never had that issue.

 

you should probably contact the manufacturer with the issue, using the Sprint booster alters the stock wireless input into the ECU, there was a TW Sprint booster user who got a fried ECU using the thing and was left high and dry to pay for the fix himself, new ECU.

 

So I set everything back to stock and attempted to set it to race8 or sport mode but the computer picked it up before I could switch. Uninstalled and back to stock. Everything is ok now.

 

Sounds like your race car is broken. Good thing it is a truck.

 

Well I decided to give it another try after reading up. I reinstalled it and have switched the program to race 7 instead of 9. I have driven about 50 miles on it and so far so good.

What I did differently: because I have a regular key for a manual and no fob or push start, I didn't think I needed to keep my key away from range of the truck. I left the drivers door open for a good hour to make sure the canbus was asleep and had my key far far away for the time.

 

The issue is usually due to not have the unit plugged in all the way !!! We see this issue often .

 

"CANBUS was asleep" haha...what kind of smoke are these people blowing up your ass now? There's no communication between the regular key fob of a manual trans truck and the vehicle unless you push a button on it.

Your truck goes into limp mode because it's seeing an input to the ECU from the "throttle pedal" that is out of range and instead of doing something dangerous (like unintended acceleration or blowing out a channel on the ECU as others have had happen), it's just going to a fail safe mode. Consider yourself lucky!

Take that trash off of your truck and maybe you'll save yourself some big headaches when you hit someone or injure yourself in an accident caused by this device. These products need to be outlawed.

 

First " I dont work for sprint booster " We as a shop sell them and have done extensive testing a trials with them !

I get most think these dont work and are trash. Blah blah!! We use these on cars from Lamborghini to the 1300 Hp Shelby Super Super Snake we just built . And a few other cars like the AAROW C7 that we just rebuilt to one up Lingenfelter ( cause they couldn't keep from overheating ) for indy driver Sam Schmidt that just did 200mph as a quadriplegic . I get it !! I thought a little over a year ago just like everyone else """" Its snake Oil"""" .. I mean obviously having built the worlds fastest WRX back in the day , and a few 1500-1800 supras and been apart of projects where we built parts for the worlds first 100 hp Tundra and the worlds fastest SUV (toyota) , That i and my partners have seen it all! Till I gambled and tried it ! Now every car that we build that has drive by wire has a Sprint Booster!!

Unfortunately some cant get the plugs fully connected on the TACOMA and that cause a issue .! But we've ran into that with a $13k motec on a race car !!! But weve tested these fully to insure that if we put one on a hundred plus thousand dollar car that safety cant be compromised !

Were even doing one for a 1600Hp mustang that hit so hard off the line it almost flipped over!


***** NOTE THESE DO NOT MAKE POWER THEY MAKE IT SO YOU CAN USE THE POWER YOU HAVE QUICKER******

 

I'm running a Pedal Commander with an OVTUNE 1.03 for MT. I'd suggest dialing it back a bit. Not familiar with the SB settings, but with the PC set on SPORT vs RACE, and the attenuation turned down on SPORT mode, it is very nice. Smooth and linear throttle control. Between the tune and the PC, I have no worries about pulling into traffic.

 

I had a difficult time plugging in my PC the first time. Very difficult to get it to line up correctly, was about to give up, and it went together perfectly. It makes the truck safer and more relaxing to drive since you are not constantly pushing the throttle in and out to maintain speed, or progressively pushing the accelerator down to accelerate from a stop. Just touch the gas like an old vehicle.

 

one of my concerns before buying the Sprint booster. If i have one and it is connected to the vehicle and take it to the dealer for some reason will it void the warranty or would i need to take it off before ? Also does it change anything in the ecm or pcm that can be detected by the dealer? Have got some conflicting answers.
thanks

 

The same thing happened to me while driving my truck on the highway. I heard a "thunk" transmission disengaged, engine cut off and three warning lights came on. I was able to pull over on to the shoulder safely. Removed the SPRINT Booster and everything went back to normal. I've sent it back and got a refund.

 

was it fully plugged in?

 

Not any more