Squealing noise while throttling and misc wet spot

It’s been a minute since I’ve posted on here, but I’m back with a new question.

Checked out a 2014 single cab today... 4x4. Truck looked really clean, crawled under it for a while with a flash light. Everything looked good, and I took it for a ride, then had some questions pop up in my head.
1. When the truck was under throttle and essently bogging our to some extent but not that bad, I’m not sure if it was just me tripping about looking for issues, but I thought I heard a strange whining/squealing noise (very quiet). Second, on my second inspection I found a spot I missed, under the engine twords the front of the truck a small wet spot. Aposolutley 0 signs of drips or anything, even the skid plate had no signs of oil.
What’s everyone think?

 

It could be the baffle springs... But I could be tripping too.

 

Come on man!

 

Look at the oil filter housing there is a drain at the bottom of it and should be a little rubber cap on it. If that is missing oil will drip from there long after the filter was changed. The faint wining noise could just be the wheels rotating or it could be drive line related

 

No oil leakage around the oil filter whatsoever. It’s more twords the front, wish I took a picture....

 

The only thing up front is radiator and trans cooler lines

 

It’s pretty much on the front bottom of the block. By a gasket. Just looks wet around it, about a 3x3 in area

 

Front crank seal?

 

I do not think so, I wish I took a picture. Just all the way on the bottom of the front of the block, where two pieces were connected together

 

Timing chain cover?

 

I think your correct
How much of a concern is this? I’ve read a few posts and it seems to be common.

 

this would be front crank seal

Timing chain cover leak is kinda off to the left side if you look at it from the front near the powersteering pump.

 

Well what desertrunner24 already said could make sense. If the little cap isnt over the nipple for the oil filter drain (assuming it is a v6 4.0) then the last of the oil can drip down because you have to drain the oil using that nipple everytime you change the filter.

 

It’s a single cab. 4cyl.
It was 10in from the oil filter, like right on the front bottom.
If I can describe it from the photo posted, to the left a tad of the gasket area under the large black pully.

I’m beating my self up for not taking a photo.

 

ah so then the oil filter drain doesn't apply here. If it is under that large black pulley (the crankshaft pulley) then its most likely the crankshaft front oil seal. They are like 20 bucks from napa for a new one. Get a new bolt from toyota as well because those bolts are meant to stretch. When my crank oil seal went it went HARD and i had oil from the crank pulley all the way up to the engine cover because it would drip onto the belt. Yours may be in an early stage of just sweating oil for now.

 

Thanks for the help. Yeah, I thought stating it was a single cab would imply 4cyl.

How hard of a repair is that solo, and how expensive to have a dealer do it?

I’m going to buy this truck... thinking about bringing it to a dealer before hand to inspect it....opinions?

 

My bad i overlooked the single cab part. First remove the belt from that pulley. Now, I own a mac tools mini 1/2 impact that zipped the bolt right out in 10 seconds flat, but others typically use the bumpstart method, this is done by putting the correct socket on a breaker bar and snugging it up against the frame of the truck. Then you crank the motor (NOT ENOUGH TO START IT) and the engine will loosen the bolt for you. Wiggle the pulley off and remove the old seal carefully without marring up the inside surface of the crank. The new seal has to be perfectly flush to the surrounding surface. tapping it in with the right size socket or something that fits the seal perfectly can get it seated. I used some hydraulic press pieces and wheel balancer cones. Then you replace the pulley right back on with a new crank bolt and torque it to spec either using a pulley holder, or what i did was have someone jam a tape covered screwdriver through the pulley to stop it from spinning while i used the torque wrench. So there is a write up on that. Now I am unsure of what toyota would charge, but they have toyota special tools made for doing their crank oil seal installing and pulling. Would likely take a technician 30-45 minutes depending on skill.

 

The crank bolt will need to be torqued to 195 ft lbs.

 

Hmph. I think I am going to try to bring it to a dealer and have a tech inspect it. After doing some research, I wonder if theres anyway I can try to get Toyota to extend the power train warrantee, its 14k over.

 

Just trying to convince my self its NOT a timing chain cover seepage.