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SR5 Seat. Front height adjustment.

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by TAC1, Jan 5, 2015.

  1. Jan 5, 2015 at 6:41 PM
    #1
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Tac1
    Miami, FL
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    Hello Forum,

    I have been toying with the idea of raising the front seats on my SR5 for a while now. I want to raise the front part especially, for better thigh support. I even have the 1" spacers that 4Crawleroffroad sells which are meant for the rear but I purchased them regardless of that fact.

    The 3 pics are of what I did in order to be able to test drive it for a couple of days and make sure that I want to go this route. Not the safest looking by far but I pulled up on it hard & the seat didn't budge.

    I know this is risky & except for the short test drive my family did, I will be the only one driving. I just want to make sure I am happy with this sonce there may be welding involved.

    Honestly, I knew from the moment that I sat down that I liked it. It's a damn shame that these trucks don't have height adjustment. Even if it's manual adjustment.

    Having raised the front is perfect for my youngest son & wife because when they move the seat forward it also goes up in height sooner due to the new angle

    I'm 6'
    Oldest son 5'11"
    Youngest son 5'6"
    Wife 5'.

    All of us like it so far. I adjusted the tilt/telescopic steering at the max setting up & out (towards the driver) to increase space between the seat cushion & the bottom of the steering wheel for ease of vehicle entry/exit.

    Now. I need to come up with some type of steel mount type thingy, haha.

    Anyone on here tackle this before? Any ideas?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2015
  2. Jan 5, 2015 at 6:53 PM
    #2
    Willie B

    Willie B Well-Known Member

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    Brad
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    If you unbolt the rear of the seat completely and bolt the front down with the spacer, how much does the rear move forward? Could you then make a flat plate (1x2 1/4" thick) for the rear that bolts down to the floor then separate bolt up to the seat?

    Interested in this as my 6' son would like it also.
     
  3. Jan 5, 2015 at 7:21 PM
    #3
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    :eek: Willie, that didn't even occur to me. I never even thought about that. That sounds very doable. Tomorrow I will pop the caps off of the rear seat bolts & take a gander.

    Man, sometimes we get focused so much on one part that we can' see other possibilities.

    I'll be in a regional meeting at work tomorrow but should get out in time to check this.

    Thanks :thumbsup:
     
  4. Jan 5, 2015 at 7:35 PM
    #4
    2004TacomaNavy

    2004TacomaNavy Well-Known Member

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    Oak Harbor, WA.
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    04 Extra Cab 4X4 SR5
    All Pro rock sliders, U-Bolt flip kit, Shock mount relocation tabs, All Pro Billy 3" lift front and back, 2014 Tundra Bed Rail tie down system, Fuel 17X8.5 Wheels on 32's, LED front light bar, Raptor style grill W/lights, Tinted Headlights w/LEDs, ARB Dual Air Compressor W/ 2 Gal. Tank, Smoked Tail Lights, Double Din Sat radio w/ back-up camera, Redline Hood Struts, ARB Dual air compressor W/ 20 Gal. air tank, Sig P320C Security System!
    I would cut the front tab with the mounting hole off and weld in and extension piece between the two so you keep the same mounting hole. You will have to cut off the locating pin but you don't need it to begin with. This way you also don't have to put new holes in the cab you get to use all the original mounting holes.
     
  5. Jan 5, 2015 at 7:39 PM
    #5
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    Just to bring it up... you have probably already noticed this.

    When you do the plate in the rear and install the spacer in the front that still means that the additional anchor pin will not be engaged and the only thing holding it in place is the bolt(s). This could be another safety concern.
     
  6. Jan 5, 2015 at 8:10 PM
    #6
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes. It's one of the 1st things I noticed when I unbolted the seat. This will take some planning for sure.
     
  7. Jan 6, 2015 at 5:13 PM
    #7
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hello,

    I am going to reduce the 1" spacer a bit. Maybe to 3/4". I was thinking that I can cut the bracket where I am pointing to it in the pic. Basically, making it a slot & then I'll weld a thick steel washer on the end of the bracket once I get the desired height.

    In the next pic, I noticed that there is only one rivet holding the seat rail to the the bracket. Also, the pin that goes down onto the floor, I don't really see what that could do in an event of a bad accident. If, God forbid, the bolts were to sheer off in an accident what would those 2 guide pins do?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Jan 6, 2015 at 7:38 PM
    #8
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    The guide pins appear to be pretty stout, but they aren't attached to anything as you stated... The only thing possible is to prevent the bracket from sliding forward in the event the bolts broke. If that happened you are already in serious dookey. Probably not an issue.
     
  9. Jan 6, 2015 at 7:59 PM
    #9
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Good point Jimmy,

    I actually removed the spacers a out an hour ago to have it secured for my wife tomorrow. I was so hung up on raising the front that I didn't realize that the exit/entry was being affected in a negative way for me.

    Also, at stock height I can set the steering wheel up & forward towards the dash. With the raised setting I had to set the steering wheel up & back towards me. I didn't realize it at the moment but it made my space feel tight.

    I did set the seat back 2 clicks from before & adjusted the back so it is a bit more comfortable than when I first started.

    I've driven 2500 in 5 days on one trip & my wife drive 600 on another & we were fine. I just wanted more thigh support but oh well.

    Maybe I'll look into some seat covers.

    I don't remember the name but I think there are some that have extra padding.
     
  10. Jan 6, 2015 at 8:53 PM
    #10
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    I have the Wet Okole ( Translated "Wet Ass" ) seat covers. They have very good added padding and they are Waterproof Neoprene.

    I like mine.
     
  11. Jan 6, 2015 at 9:24 PM
    #11
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hahaha! Wet ass? Why, do these make you sweat?

    Also. Did the padding make a difference in added thigh support? I may just order these and install them along with a 1/2" foam pad under it, if needed.

    Any pocs of the padding?

    Thank you.
     
  12. Jan 6, 2015 at 9:53 PM
    #12
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    LOL, no they were designed for surfers and swimmers in Hawaii so he could get his wet ass in the truck / car without screwing up his seats.

    http://www.wetokole.com/

    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL77124F99081D8AE2

    Order free samples: http://www.wetokole.com/swatches.html

    Some people say they are hotter than normal seat covers, but I haven't had an issue and I live in Hot Humid South Carolina.
     
  13. Jan 7, 2015 at 8:10 AM
    #13
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    UPDATE: This still may work!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Basically, if this works out, I'll get the alignment shim welded in place and use the large washer on top. It's a 5/8" lift vs 1" & it feels "just right" so far. Also, I can have the steering wheel position where I've always had it.

    Also, I'll cut off the tab on the alignment shim som it's not sticking out. This is just a temporary mock-up.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2015
  14. Jan 20, 2015 at 3:33 PM
    #14
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    UPDATE:

    I ordered these from Fastenal 1/4" thick steel washers from Fastenal.
    https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/48660

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I'll have these welded & painted. The original bolt is still long enough & I have longer bolts if they were to be needed. 1/4" is still a noticeable improvement.
     

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