StAndrew's Build

Chris, you may try removing the oil catch can and see what that does. You maybe losing vacuum pressure since yours is vented with the filter open to the air under your hood. Just a thought.

 

Chech your idle control valve vac hose. It's under the TB and it ends further back somewhere. I forgot to hook that up when I did my build... High AFRs and no power

 

No vacuum leak

The A/F heater element code would also explain the AFR's. Im still stumped on the trans acting up though.

 

Your right, I was drinking & got mixed up HAHAHA

 

My experiences in seeing this, it usually makes the vehicle run real shitty... Granted he has shift issues, that to me sounds like an entirely different problem.

The several times I saw a leak post MAF to where it would skew A/F numbers like he's seeing, the idle would be shit, and pinging was noticeable off idle or under mild acceleration.

The running shitty and CEL is usually because the ECU is thrown into a state of disarray. It sees one input from the MAF, then gets another from the O2

EGT's are a good tell tale if the O2 is working properly... If you're seeing 17:1 then EGT's should be sky high... 1500 degree range maybe ? just a guess

Edit, went back and read first post of problem... Everything checks with chart.... You need to go over every last intake connection from the turbo to the throttle body... and make sure the intake manifold and gasket is seated 100% if you had that off for any reason.

Bad ECU is possible, but would be my last guess, need to check everything else first obviously... I have not followed this from the beginning, so I'll ask, what IS the engine management ? ECU flash ?

 

Made a major step in troubleshooting. Bought a 1999 Accord 5-sp for my new DD so now I can tear into this thing again without having to worry!

Sold the old 1980 Tercel for $550. That's $550 more than I though I'd get out of that thing.

 

Nice dude. I agree with Mikey... vac leaks can be sneaky as hell and too quiet to hear. I check for vac leaks by blowing into the intake somewhere on the main pipe. It should be almost completely air tight with no hissing (with the exception of a tiny bit of air sneaking past the compression ring gaps)

 

Vac and exhaust leaks were thoroughly checked as soon as there were issues. Besides, neither would explain the P1135 code and wonky shifting/shift code

I'm going to start checking the ECU and wire harnesses. With the new ride, my anxiety has come down a bit. Job starts very soon and when the Tercel kicked the bucket, had to get another car.

 

Did you ask that shop if there's any chance they may have forgot to disconnect your battery before welding?

 

I asked the exhaust shop. They didn't weld on the truck at all (and it was running great when I picked it up from them.

Production off road did disconnect the battery (radio was reset) but I don't know if they did it right away or not. It was running shitty when I picked it up from them

 

So Ive been picking my brain. The engine was running fine when I replaced the O2, then all of a sudden, when it warmed up, it threw the code and started running poorly.

These engines warm up in Open Loop, right? Then switch to closed loop... Probably why it was running good until it warmed up. So something is wrong when in closed loop. I'll go back and recheck all connections for leaks, etc... then start on electrical circuit checks.

 

Not sure how u did a vac leak check but Should do a smoke test to see for any vac leaks. I had a shop do this jus to make sure before boosting.

 

You'll have to educate me on the smoke test. Im still not sure how that would affect the O2 heater element though

Ill get on it later this week, first have a little fixin to do on the new car.

 

Here you go...

Had it done on my fuel system too cause I threw a code for the gas cap. Was actually the charcoal canister which is minor to me. Once the UCON went on the code never came back on lol.

http://youtu.be/FfiQ7qWiG-M

 

Do you listen to anything anyone fucking tells you ?

I told you why it would throw a CEL for the O2... especially closed loop.... most vehicles are open loop at idle or low RPM, not sure on the Tacoma

Unless you bought a POS sensor and it was bad out of the box, otherwise the ECU isn't believing the O2 reading and calling it bad.

Another question, what MAF are you running ? and is it located on the draw, or pressure side of the turbo ?

 

One other bit of info.... and you're not going to find it in a book, somebody told me you're an officer in the Navy, so I figure I better pre-qualify this last bit of info I'm going to offer you, you're on your own after this

MAF's have a metering limit, just in case you're using the stock MAF, i'm not sure what that limit is.

Also, there are several types of air meters, MAPS = Mass Air Pressure Sensor, and MAFS= Mass Air Flow Sensor.... Now, you got a couple things going on with these, ECU software is setup to look for the factory sensor ranges (MAFS and O2), and our ECU's are setup for non-turbo application on top of that, duhhhh right ?

Well, here's the thing, using an MAFS and because of factory software it's best used on the DRAW side of the turbo (even with a reflashed ECU), but it's metering ability isn't 100% because it's measuring non-pressurized airflow, so this is why tuning is better to do with full standalone ECU.... I've ran them inline on the pressure side, and you get better throttle response that way if it's within a foot of the Throttle Body, but MAFS don't read pressurized volume well anyway and I never saw a huge difference for better or worse and just found it easier to tune on the draw side because the engines I've done seemed to run smoother that way.... Both scenarios would occasionally kick a CEL on because it would cause rich or lean situtations at different times... Again, you'll only ever have truly smooth tuning and operation with standalone ECU and software and spending hours tuning it all

The pic of your engine bay looks like your MAFS is in the pressure circuit... If there's truly no vacuum leaks, I'd attempt to put it on the draw side and compare the difference .

This isn't written in a book anywhere, so I don't expect you to listen ... Carry on shipwreck... I'll be on the sidelines watching this some more, I've exceeded all the useful input I can provide to you............ You're in troubleshooting stage, and Officers suck and troubleshooting

 

So you want me to put my MAF into my 4" intake? Makes sense, thanks, Ill go ahead and do that never. Very clever of you again. I guess because Im such a stupid navy officer I always thought it went athwart the turbo to the port. Read it in a book.

Maybe if you wanted ppl to listen to you, you can be less of a douche about it.

If there is a leak, that's the only way Ill find it The MAF is practically brand new but Ill swap another in to make sure its not bad.

Might be an exhaust leak, haven't had time to check that as thoroughly as I wanted. I still have to retighten the v-clamps now that I ran the truck a few times.

 

You can also use a compressor to rigged to a coupling so that you can pressurize the system, with the engine off. Turn in down the compressor to ~ 8psi output. That way you can hear for leaks with the engine off.

I have a feeling that you're on a wild goose chase. Doesn't hurt to rule out potentials one at a time though.

 

Will look into it. Just haven't had time to get on it yet. I hope its not going to be a goose chase but I have a feeling you are right...

Going to pickup my new car now and get some work stuff settled. Until then, the truck will be sitting pretty in the garage.

 

I started being an ass when you start talking like you know something you haven't a clue about, then ignoring tons of advice from others

Wrong ASSumption again... Look it up genius, almost every factory turbo design has the MAF on the suction side of the turbo.... But you knew that didn't you ?!?!?

See, I'd be the guy you wouldn't want to ignore when I'm giving advice on turbo problems, because chances are i've been there, done that, or watched my father diagnose and fix the issue who is by the way certified to teach automotive engineering courses at Youngstown State University...

You crack me and a whole bunch of others up..... Again, carry on Shipwreck..... At least I finally got an explanation as to why you ignore so much advice