Start over before too deep

Need lift advice on running at least 37’s. I’m thinking about getting a newer 2nd gen and I’m trying to figure out what it’s going to cost me. Gears and lockers don’t matter. Because I have to do that either way. My focus is the suspension components. I was thinking RCLT, but after looking a little closer that would be around $12k. Not sure how good I would feel about spending that much when the last 2 winters we only went 3 times and 1 time we rode with friends. I’m not ruling it out because I’m a bit OCD and like that it is a clean once and done solution. If I don’t do a DB like I currently have I assume I’ll end up needing a BL to go along with a 2.5-3” SL. I’d like to hear back from anyone that has done it or redone what they have. My focus is going through deep snow. Like high centered and still feet away from dirt/rocks. I don’t daily drive it. So it doesn’t need to drive like stock, but I do want to feel comfortable letting my wife or kids drive it down the hwy. My friends tell me ifs is only good for the road and I should straight axle it. I don’t want to SAS though. I don’t want fiberglass either.

I currently have an 07 dbcb I bought with a 6” Rough Country DB. It kinda bothers me that the frame is cut and I question the strength/longevity of the lift. I ended up ordering 35’s. I actually assumed they would rub while out wheeling because the 33’s it came with rubbed when we were out 4wheeling. But I made more room than I thought I could apparently. I’m pretty sure 37’s would clear 99% of the time.

 

Checkout this thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/37’s-anyone-crazy-enough.603442/

 

Thanks for the reply. I’ll admit I was being somewhat lazy. But I have read through so many threads trying to find answers to various questions I’ve had. 30 pages later you figure out that you get the most advice from someone that has zero first hand experience. I’ll start going back through the “37’s” threads. Although most of the reading I have done says you need to torch your firewall and relocate your body mounts. There isn’t a lot left of my body mounts, but they are still in the same location. I may weld in some gussets for insurance though. Although I can’t imagine what it would take to rip them off. I kinda doubt the body is strong enough to do it. Even with them weakened. I have been surprised before though.

 

1. Chrome wheels are 37” Boggers pre trim, cut, grind, bend and hammer.
2. Black wheels are the current 35”s I’m on.

 

Answer A: Go to town on your firewall, fenders, and cab mount, which you seem to already know.
Answer B: Big suspension change like LT or SAS, and there's no such thing as a cheap option as you're finding out now. You can check out JD Fab, I know they have a kit that moves the LCAs forward giving you more room to clear big tires without going to town as much on your firewall. It does require some cutting and welding, which you may not like if you're already concerned about your DB lift, but it's a lot more structurally sound than a DB lift. You can also go with their LT kit which pushes the tires forward even more, but going long travel is expensive no matter how you do it. You can certainly do it for less than RCLT, but it's still going to be a lot.
Answer C: Be a trail blazer and let us know how these work : https://werewolftech.com/en/catalog...for-toyota/portal-axles-for-toyota-fj-cruiser I believe the FJ front suspension is the same as the 2nd gen tacoma, and I'm sure you can figure out something to make the rear work. Plus you can do CTIS which would be pretty great for deep snow.

 

Thanks for the rabbit hole, btw. I’m liking the JD Fab components. Not sure there will be any money savings vs the RCLT. But I like the thought of it being slightly narrower and having the ability to adj/move the tire in 1/4”increments to give it the best clearance. Just need to call them or decide on what the best option for a steering rack would be.