Starting Issue

Recently I had to replace my cluster lights in my dash so I tore everything apart and replaced all the lights. Went to start the truck up afterwards and nothing. Thought it was a dead battery which it probably was but even with a jump box and jumping it with another truck nothing works. I tested pretty much everything I can think of and it all looks good. I retore everything apart and all the connections and wires looked as they should. Ive been starting my truck for the last week and a half by using a small wire to jump the relay and Hotwire it. The problem definitely lies in the ignition system, but when I got my new ignition switch today from car parts.com it didn’t fit because the casting was slightly different, and then as I was comparing it to my old one it fell apart into a hundred pieces. Can find anyone else having issues with their switch and my taco is pretty low miles, if anyone has any insight or further testing I could do, please let me know. Thanks

 

Try your luck with Rockauto, I've always had good experiences with them (don't contact their customer service), it's under the Electrical Switch and Relay section. Do make sure to read the info though.

 

My thought is if it was cranking by the switch before you tore the dash apart there’s a loose connection somewhere. Unfortunately now you have a broken switch so you got to get that fixed first.

 

He could have bent one of the pins in the starter switch, i had to do a lot of disassembling around the ignition to replace my dash lights.



The HVAC control lights however.. they will make you want to roll up into a ball and ugly cry.

 

I had exact same problem......I ordered and waited a week.......and did not fit....

so I had to hop down to the local Azone.....they.had em in stock....


Duralast Ignition Switch LS765

 

We can certainly do some checks.
But before we/you do, Can you tell us how you diagnosed the ignition system in order to find it faulty?

Just need to know where/how you did the checks.
Where you are missing power? At the clutch switch, the ignition switch, the relay?

 

No it doesn't.......

Jumping the relay only bypasses the control portion of the relay.
And the Ignition Switch is NOT the only component on the control side of the relay.....

You have at least a fuse, a Clutch Safety Switch, a relay, and a few connectors.

You all can throw parts at it all you want.
Good luck.

 

Yep there's 4 hurdles between bat and starter that have to be checked

40amp fuse....then ignition switch contacts.......then the 7.5 amp STI fuse.....

and lastly the either the clutch or neutral safety switch....which is most common for a no-start

you can buy a used switch off ebay for $20...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1459117924...7NTRorTSyXehfiEX7A==|tkp:Bk9SR7jSwrKiZg&pfm=0

 

He said it fell apart AFTER he removed it from the truck.

Been nice to have tested the 7.5A STA fuse for power while the ignition was in the crank position.
But we can't now, since there isn't an ignition in the truck.

My point is, He asked for "Further testing he could do".
And how do you know clutch switch or wiring to/from it was untouched?
Did he say he checked that? Were you there when he pulled the dash watching to be sure nothing happened to it?

Do you know for sure the 7.5A STA fuse is good?
Did he say that?

More points, That's why I asked my question.
In order to help someone the best I can, with out guessing, I need to know what they have done.
What he/she knows. Doesn't know........

We can play the game of what if,
What if the ignition switch was not the issue.
What if he never had to take the ignition out and have it "fall apart".
What if it was a wiring issue before the ignition switch?

I'm not playing what if, until I have checked all that I can possibly check.
Then go off of the known data.

Lost of unknow data in OP's post.

But anyways. I'll let you 2 figure it out.
I wont post anymore unless OP asks for my help.

Good guys.

 

Unquote me please as I don't want to involve any more time into Scrödingers ignition switch.

 

The relay and clutch both have power, it’s just the ignition where I couldn’t get a reading

 

I tested the fuse and the new ignition part is the one that fell apart when I got it in the mail, the old one is in it right now so you guys can quite shouting at me for not testing anything. I did, I’m just trying to figure out what kind of testing I could’ve missed and so far I see nothing. Thanks for that wiring diagram. The clutch switch the fuse, the start cancel everything has fine power accept the ignition, and all the connectors and wires looks good

 

Says the guy who thinks taking apart a dash is a headache. The easiest job ive done to the truck in months, I did all the testing I could. Maybe don’t involve yourself in forums you aren’t interested in or know nothing about bucko

 

I'm talking about the damn HVAC lights, you know, the stupid t4 bulbs that go in the HVAC controls to illuminate them at night? There are so many small and intracite parts in the HVAC controls assembly that takes absolutely forever to do and you must put it all back together without putting one thing in the wrong place or else you mess it up. And YOU evidently screwed something up somehow, so that's on you. Don't be an asshole to people trying to help, or an asshole in general.

 

Strange.

The 7.5A STA fuse fuse can not have power unless it goes through the ignition first.
Did you use your voltage meter and see if the fuse had power when cranking?

Where at on the ignition are you checking for power?

Something is not right here, as the STA fuse and the Clutch switch can not have power unless it goes through the ignition first.

 

I did those ones too lol they were a piece of cake buddy compared to any of the engine/drivetrain work ive done recently on the truck those are nothing. Your not helping though your just trying to bash what I’m sayin your the one being an ahole I’m j saying don’t comment if your not going to help me or be friendly. Ive retorn everything apart, all connectors were put back correctly

 

That’s what I was thinking. But I am I don’t what else to say and I’m tryi to get a power reading from the pins in the connector of the ignition switch

 

This fixed your issue though?

 

Pins 2 & 7 should have power at all times.
If they do, then you have 2 options.
Pin 2 is White wire
Pin 7 is White/Red wire.

Both options will require the ignition to be installed back into the truck.

Option #1 - After installing the ignition. Put the key in the ignition and and hold it in the CRANK position.
Next, While still in the crank position, check for 12v on BOTH sides of the 7.5A STA fuse.


Option #2 - Back probe pin 1 (Black wire) while key is in the crank position.
See if you have 12 while cranking.

 

You don't have my truck, me and your assembly is NOTHING alike. Mine is far more complex and tedious than yours is to replace, for yours you just pop off the damn cover and untwist the bulbs. On mine you have to do all sorts of bullshit.