Starts fine cold, will not start when hot...already threw a ton at it.

Looks like the work of a master counterfeiter. The lot code looks like it was molded in at the time of injection molding. It should be inscribed on the body under the part number after testing.

THE REAL QUESTION IS WILL THE PENTILE CAPS MELT? IT HAPPENED TO ME.

In this example, the part number and code are in different fonts, and apparently, the three-character verification code was added after some sort of testing.

I've been running these for a few years now.

If the code is too perfect and the font matches the part number, it looks like it was stamped by a machine during injection molding.

These are genuine injectors.

 

Suggestion on where I can obtain decent/legit injectors? I am going to attempt to return the eBay injectors. Rock Auto has 3 different injectors showing. Are the GB Manufacturing legit OEM rebuilds?

 

Looks like RockAuto has a couple of options for new as well. Based on the pictures, the Beck/Arnley look legit. RockAuto is easy to deal with if they don't seem right. What is not clear is whether you need the o-ring kit, but it's only $3.30. What's another 20 bucks, eh?

 

At one time, Beck Arnley WAS reboxed OEM but only without o-rings and seals. Check to see if you need seals and o-rings along with a Beck purchase I don't worry about that because I can get a Victor Renz seal kit locally if I need it. Note that I'm basing this on information from over 2 years ago. Things can change over time.

 

Since I am throwing money at only a "maybe" I'd prefer a reman vs new OEM.

 

Just get your existing injectors cleaned and tested. They will come with new o-rings, screens, and pintle caps.

 

I'll be paying someone to do this. I really don't want my truck on a shop floor for 3+ weeks while shit is ripped apart and mailed around the country.

 

I would say that injectors may be a good investment. I have a 3RZ and I had one injector go bad at 240K miles. When I pulled my old injectors I noticed they were OEM and all of them had cracked bodies (plastic part).
I ordered new ones from these guys: https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/

They have been working fine and looked to be of good quality. Claimed to be Denso brand and they said they were better than stock (not proven).

 

Leaky injectors my intra-nek guess

 

Just avoiding work and doing some research, and GB Remanufacturing looks like a legit outfit here in the USA. I'd personally prefer to go with new, but I understand your hesitancy. I'd go with a GB reman over an unknown eBay or Amazon part any day. Heck, I got an Amazon gas cap that appeared to be OEM and didn't fix the CEL light on our '06 4Runner. Got one from the dealer for about 10 bucks more and fixed it right up.

There are still some odd unknowns here, like the excessive fuel pressure, and what exactly got swapped over with the JDM transplant. Either way, your injectors are likely very old and/or have a lot of cycles on them. With your symptoms and everything else that has been checked, it seems worth it to try at least the reman injectors to eliminate that as the culprit. Check the RockAuto thread here for the 5% discount code.

And I know the thread that you speak of. I followed that saga as it was happening, which is why a couple of folks here have suggested injectors.

 

Denso Fuel Injectors, 1999-2002 Toyota 4Runner, 2000-2004 Tundra, 1999-2004 Tacoma 3.4L (fiveomotorsport.com)

 

yeah you're right, that inspector code on the ones he got looks like it was added at the same time as the part numbers. Definitely a red flag

such a shame that there are so many counterfeits floating around with truck parts these days, enough to make one swear off eBay/Amazon all together for parts. Even OEM/Toyota timing belt kits are a big counterfeit thing on those sites now.

 

That's not what I want to hear! I'm due for a belt change.

 

One thing that I've noticed after buying a pickup truck load of OEM parts, is to look for the inconsistency in the lot code stampings. They are added after the fact by humans. So they will NOT be perfect. The code 5C17 was partially stamped over the label print in the lower right-hand corner which indicates a genuine part to me.

If the verification codes are too perfect or missing, then I usually suspect a counterfeit.

 

Just checking in. Any update on the outcome here?

 

Sorry just wondering when you are cranking it over too ok start does the oil light and Battery light disappeared and then the sound of crank changes. I have ben dealing with same issue and recently noticed that my Dash lights go out and it won’t start then the RPM of the crank will change again and it would start or just crank until I get tired cranking it. I am down to CSPS to see if that helps. And checking fuel pressure also.

 

UPDATE: 6/16

Took Taco to authorized dealer service in Spokane. Took them my new 6 injectors and told them simply swap them with my supplied injectors. As they pulled off the fuel rail.....one of the injectors was GLUE IN with some black RTV type BS. I was personally there an looked it over. Jinky AF. This was supposed to be a new JDM motor. I have the shipping receipt as part of the included documents included with the truck when I purchased it in 2020.

BUT....I purchased it from a coupla dudes in a trailer park. I got F'd. Ran fine when I bought it. Drove it 150 miles home. Drove it a few thousand miles with minimal issues.

So the head had to come off to get all the BS cleaned out and back to spec. They installed my injectors. $1281 later....I now have a Tacoma that SEEMS to start and drive fine, but more importantly starts again once it's been running and full operating temperature. I've only tested this twice, as I retrieved the truck this morning. Time will tell. But the new injectors seems to have solved the issue.

 

Thanks for checking back in and putting closure to the story. Sorry that you got f'ed, but glad that it could be fixed up. Hopefully you have minimal/minor issues for a while!

 

I am not 100% confident. But it's working now. I hunt and travel backcountry out West a ton. No hunting buddies. Solo. And Mrs is usually a State or two away. Even for the cost....I am a bit relieved knowing it's not some jinky, glued in injector. It's paying for the piece of mind.

 

Supposedly there is an intake temp sensor that can go bad and cause this same symptom. I have the issue too. Trouble starting when warm. I have yet to dig into it...