Steering and bigger tires

@JoeCOVA Would you mind posting your alignment specs with the 35s if you have them?

 

I don’t have them, my buddy did the alignment for me so no need for the slip.

I can send my cam positions if that works. The key to the alignment is getting the lower cams to move the axle as far forward as possible.

 

Hey, I appreciate that. No need to send pics as I'm not even close to executing this right now. Lol. Just homework.

 

My wheels are scs f5s, 16x8 with 3.5 backspacing.

In motion on the road, steering is fine. On trails or very low speed/stationary, it blows.

And when I say 'on trails', im implying aired down to at most 15psi

Really, the only thing I truly hate is that I cant turn the truck around on the trail as easily if we get into something and backing out is too long/dangerous. I usually end up looking like austin powers, except with a cliff on one side and a sheer bank on the other, instead of walls. Just dont go places that dead end, so you never have to deal with it.

 

I went with some Falken Wildpeak MTs. Pretty beefy tire!

 

I have 33's on my truck and i can't say that i gotta bow up but they feel... slightly heavier? not a big deal though.

 

Aired down to....what? Lol.

Thanks for the explanation.

 

What's your wheel/tire setup?

 

Method Grid's 17x8.5 0 offset with 4.75 backspacing. 285/70R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers so not a "true 33" if you ask the purists lol. I just chalk up the heavy feeling to it being a bigger wheel and tire. Like I said though, not a big deal.

edit- I am lifted about 2.5 up front and 1.5 rear and yes i rub lol.

 

Generally something between 10 and 15. I don't have beadlocks, so don't fuck with single digits. I debeaded on top of a mountain once and had to limp down a not-easy trail with one 33 and 3 35s. I am not interested in repeating that experience lol

 

Yeah.... don't blame you.

 

I just switch from Stock OR tires to skinny 33s 255/85/16 which is almost 3" bigger and the steering is the same. The only difference i notice is the skinny tires tend to follow the roads crown/slant more

 

If you're on stock wheels, you now have negative scrub radius. This tends to make the steering lighter on RWD vehicles. It also does funky things with your dynamic toe and Ackerman geometry.

 

Rotated my 34’s this weekend, 90lbs each with my Ray10 wheels. Rides, turns and drives very well & I'm a senior citizen, lol.

 

I was asked to share my experience with 35s, both in this thread and through several PMs with the OP. Sorry to waste everyones time with my "useless untrue" information based on first hand experience with having 35s on my truck for a year on road and off. Hows the steering effort on your 35s?

 

I was not talking about your comment . Did you see what I quoted ?

 

I'll delete it , guess it was to negative . Have a good day .

 

You quoted OP asking why 2 people were talking about increased steering effort, saying "some people post useless untrue info". I was one of the two people. If ive misinterpreted that, then sorry, but your message seemed fairly straightforward

 

So for arguments sake, I just went into my garage, started the truck and cranked the wheel in each direction all the way over while in park......with 1 finger...I'm on a 33" for the winter but I can't image my 35s being so much more difficult that I would have to labor turning the wheel.

 

Look, Im not trying to have a dick swinging contest here. My truck is noticeably harder to turn the wheel on 35s while stationary than 33s or stock were. Maybe its the pattern, maybe its something else in my setup, maybe Im just a spindly armed bitch. Just trying to answer the mans questions. Fucking Jesus this website