Steering Rack Bushings

Same issue with my castle nut. Too low, making the cotter pin too high. Didn't think of adding a washer.

Well that just sucks about the ES bushings. We'll see how long mine last.

 

I had that mysterious clunk / popping noise when I would turn left or right or turning either way when I was backing up. I replaced the rack and now the popping noise is gone. I put up with that noise for quite a long time and I'm glad it's gone! I also replaced both driver and passenger's side CV Axles and front wheel bearings when I did the rack, but doubt those things had anything to do with the noise. My driver's side boot had a 6 - 8 inch tear in it and the other side had a small hole while the driver's side bearing was going out so it only made sense to do both front wheel bearings at the same time. All noise is gone!

 

Like I said, your mileage may vary. I have just about the worst set up for steering parts...33x13.50 Super Swampers, welded spiders, and I wheel hard. Still, I expected the poly bushings to hold up better than they apparently have. The factory stuff with 180k on it held up to that set up for 2 years.

IIRC, I used a 5/8" steel flat washer. It was a little big around the outside, overhanging the steering arm, but it worked nicely to get the cotter pin fully engaged in the nut.

 

I am in need of replacing my bushing, so what does everyone recommend OEM rubber bushing or going after market poly bushing or what??? 200K miles

 

poly for the steering rack for sure.

 

Does the poly just last longer? What brand do you recommend?

 

poly should last longer. the material is harder so in theory the steering should be a little more responsive but youd never be able to feel i dont think.

energy suspension has the nicest kit imo.

 

I prefer the kit from Wheelers becuase it has more than one sleeve option. This assures one of them will work in your application.

 

Are the OEM rubber ones even available?

 

I agree. Several people claim tighter steering but they went from trashed rubber to new poly. Two variables.

I went from not-so-trashed rubber to new poly and noticed zero difference.

For the people that noticed a huge difference, it might've been mostly because their old bushings were in such bad shape.

Just MHO.

 

well maybe not OEM but they do have rubber, poly, and thermoplastic

 

yes mine are not trashed but i do have a good amount of play. my local part shop have the same types of bushings available as wheelers and energy. should i go energy poly or moog thermoplastic

 

Well, I dunno. You got 200k out of your factory bushings. Might be best to go back with those. I replaced mine with the energy suspension poly bushings and less than a year later, with no more than 1500 miles on them, the big wrap-around bushing split apart in the middle where the clamp sits. Of course, you have to understand, I have just about the most hellish setup possible for being hard on steering parts (welded spiders in the front diff, 33x13.50 Swampers on 8" wheels with 3.5" of back spacing and about half my mileage is off-road) so your mileage may vary.

I know I, for one, am probably not going to put any more aftermarket steering parts on my truck unless I have no other option. Not even Moog parts seem to last a fraction of the life of the genuine Toyota parts.

 

Excellent point. That same logic applied when I replaced my original rear brakes at like 120K.

 

ok i found a website which stats they are OEM but they are expensive. The biggest bushing by it self is $21. But what is y'alls opinion on rock auto, they have acdelco rubber bushings which i assume would be very close to OEM.

http://genuineoemtoyotaparts.com/20...peeds-steering-steering_gear_linkage-8510237/

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...Referer+www.google.com+URL+/en/catalog/toyota

 

That's where I got my Energy Suspension bushings (Rockauto). They are a good place to get good prices on aftermarket stuff. Again though, I think I'd shell out the cash for the genuine Toyota parts. As far as Rockauto, if I can find parts made by a OEM manuafacturer (Denso, Aisin, Koyo, etc...) I figure those will be almost as good as the factory parts. Otherwise, you just have to take your chances.

 

I originally used the Dorman kit used by the OP. I found it to be a poor fit. I swapped it out for the Energy Suspension kit and was much happier. It was actually cheaper!!

 

I find dorman products 50/50 when it comes to quality. Some parts are great and others arent. Some are garbage...

 

Same here. I replaced my lower ball joint-to-spindle bolts with a set of Dorman M10x35mm grade 10.9 flange head bolts and they worked perfectly. I think my air filter box was Dorman too. No complaints about that yet. Door handles and whatnot...not so much.

 

Energy Suspension 8.10101G Power Steering Rack Bushing For 1995-2000 Toyota Tacoma 4WD Only

https://smile.amazon.com/Energy-Sus...16&sr=8-6&keywords=energy+suspension+bushings

I bought the master kit but this is just for the steering rack.