Steering rack clamp bushing movement?

is it normal to have rubber residue on either sides of this clamp bushing?
The rack and bushings were all replaced 4 years ago OEM?
Does this part of the rack actually move to make rubber marks on either side?

I have rubber residue on both sides on the rack from the clamp bushing and my alignment seems to get out of wack every 15,000 miles

 

Probably time for new rack bushings, I assume you've done them once or twice already in 600k+ miles?

If the rack moves at all when you crank the steering wheel left/right, it's time for new bushings. You can kind of look under the truck while turning the wheel, or have a friend turn it while you look under.

On mine, I could see the rack physically moving side to side. Doesn't move anymore with new rack bushings (there are 3 total)'


edit - missed the part about them being replaced 4 years ago, I would say it seems a little early for new ones again but you do put considerable miles on them it sounds like. Look at the rack while someone cranks the steering wheel side to side and you'll know if you need new ones.

Maybe try poly bushings this time?

 

No, it shouldn't move.

I say go for the ES poly bushings.

And get your kid with his tiny fingers to install them.

 

Residue is probably from the rack moving in some way. Definitely recommend the energy suspension polyurethane bushings. Now for your alignment, I can't say. bushings should only change the play in the steering. Its possible something is loose and moves a bit all the time?

@jbrandt all we need now is kwikvette and this thread will really go sideways with everyone who has replied.

 

Yup,
New polyurethane bushings are on my list,

My AC compressor just burnt up, so that’s 1st and then ordering the bushing kit.

 

At least the bushing kit is inexpensive, something like $25. Lots worse out there.

 

Which end links do I need for the 1997?
There are two different part numbers, different sizes?

 

Can't say it's "normal", but I just replaced my very-soft rubber bushings and had similar residue.

What I can say is... trying to pull a torque wrench to 123lbs while laying on your back under a truck is very entertaining for anyone around you.

I think your existing bushings will have the size stamped in them.

 

I couldn't figure out a way to get a torque wrench on the middle rack bushing for the life of me, there's no room to do it. I just put the socket wrench on it and hammered it tight as well as I could.

But yeah, steering rack bushings weren't hard to do per say, but it's a job I don't look forward to ever doing again. Would be way easier with a lift rather than working under jack stands

 

you need a deep socket if i remember right, then a torque wrench with a flex head... i know i've done it before.

 

I've heard a few people say that. I didn't have any trouble getting wrench situated. I used the Tekton 150lbs wrench (https://www.tekton.com/1-2-inch-drive-click-torque-wrench-24335), which is only 18.5" long. I'm guessing most people 250lbs/25" wrenches? I don't think the longer wrench would fit.

I think I had do use a shallow socket on the center bolt to keep the wrench in the sweet spot to move. It was only two nights ago and I've already forgotten . Definitely didn't use a wobbly adapter, though.

Maybe 4cyl also gives a bit more space?

The center bolt actually torques to 141lbs according to the sheet I have, but its orientation makes it easier than the 123lbs bolts on either end of the rack. Grab the wrench in one hand and a frame rail in the other and pull! Driver bolt was the hardest for me--I couldn't find a good angle to brace myself, so it was like doing a pull-up while laying on my back. A longer wrench would have made that one much easier.

 

What size deep socket is needed?
I have a snapon torque wrench with a flex head ( my only experience tool) so maybe that will work

 

It must be a 4cyl vs 6cyl thing, I use a little 20-150lb Pittsburgh torque wrench from harbor freight and it wouldn't fit, not even close to fitting

 

I'll save him the effort:

40's and tons.

 

I think you'll want 19mm deep, 19mm shallow, and 22mm whatever you've got. You'll also need a second 22mm or large adjustable to hold the opposite end of the driver's side bolt.

I followed the instructions in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQ7i7QVx-lA

Timmah's video is also worth a watch for some advice on freeing the rack, but I think his method is more complicated than it needs to be: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YywcR0E9bM4

 

I used that same video on the top, that guy is hilarious haha.

 

Of course 40's and tons. What else is there?

 

Well since this thread is about a steering rack...

40s n tons and full hydro steering kit

 

44's

 

AAAAAH the hydro! ofc you need it and it will be amazing, but what of a steering cooler then?