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steering rack repair question

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by RagJoint, Dec 11, 2013.

  1. Dec 11, 2013 at 12:51 PM
    #1
    RagJoint

    RagJoint [OP] Member

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    Hey friends, I had my steering rack replaced by a mechanic. It was loose and the tires were changing direction independent of each-other. This made a clunking noise and caused my tires to were down fast. It also put a lot of play in the steering and made for uneasy driving not knowing which way the truck was going to go. After the rack was replaced the klunking went away and the truck didn't change direction but there is still play in the steering wheel. When I checked my mechanic's work i crawled under the truck while it was running and twisted the steering shaft. What I saw was the rack float about 1/4" in each direction depending on which way I was twisting. My question is: Is the rack supposed to float/move in the rubber bushings? If not what do I have to do to make it right? Could this be the cause of steering play? The rack bolts are tight and the truck has been aligned.

    Your answers are greatly appreciated. I live in rural VT and my web access is limited so please allow a few days for me to reply to your valuable feedback. Thanks
     
  2. Dec 11, 2013 at 12:54 PM
    #2
    davidpick

    davidpick NWXPDTN

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    You want to do the " " and replace your steering rack bushings with
     
  3. Dec 11, 2013 at 12:54 PM
    #3
    TACO TX

    TACO TX Well-Known Member

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    ^^^^^This^^^^^. Energy suspension rack bushings from Wheelers off road. Atleast do the bushings, that will help a bunch.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2013
  4. Dec 11, 2013 at 12:55 PM
    #4
    davidpick

    davidpick NWXPDTN

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    ^^ haha beat ya to it! :laugh: :cheers:
     
  5. Dec 11, 2013 at 1:13 PM
    #5
    TACO TX

    TACO TX Well-Known Member

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  6. Dec 12, 2013 at 3:51 PM
    #6
    FALlover

    FALlover Well-Known Member

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    +1 on the bushings, i just changed mine and it made a big difference
     
  7. Dec 13, 2013 at 10:52 AM
    #7
    RagJoint

    RagJoint [OP] Member

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    thank you, this is extremely helpful! Do you have any tips for replacing the bushings?
     
  8. Dec 13, 2013 at 10:57 AM
    #8
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    Disconnect both tierods. May have cut out the bushings. Take your time. If you have a diff drop then you'll have to remove it in order to pull the drivers side bolt out. Torque to spec
     
  9. Dec 13, 2013 at 11:26 AM
    #9
    FALlover

    FALlover Well-Known Member

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    FWIW, I only disconnected the driver's side tierod. it was helpful to have a friend help with maneuvering the rack around but it could be completed with one person, especially if you disconnect both tierods. my bushings were very worn and came out easy. i think i used a hammer and a socket. PB blaster on nuts and bolts the night before and day of
     
  10. Dec 13, 2013 at 1:38 PM
    #10
    JLee50

    JLee50 Well-Known Member

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    If you have a really hard time getting the LONG bolt out (that runs through the crossmember), it might be bent. Mine was - I had to cut it and take it out in two pieces.
     
  11. Dec 15, 2013 at 1:03 PM
    #11
    Tylerm5000

    Tylerm5000 Well-Known Member

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    I never disconnected tie rods. But I recommend the bushings! You will have to have an alignment afterward. (The truck) ha
     
  12. Dec 15, 2013 at 2:17 PM
    #12
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    why would you need an alignment??
     
  13. Dec 15, 2013 at 2:49 PM
    #13
    YOTA LOVER

    YOTA LOVER Stay Calm, and Fire For Effect

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    I did the rack on my gen 1 twice by myself and found it easier to maneuver the rack in and out with the outer tie rods removed. If you can manage it without removing them you may not "need" an alignment, but for the peace of mind and life of the tires I'd get one anyway.
     
  14. Dec 15, 2013 at 4:01 PM
    #14
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    As long as the tierods arent turned or adjusted you shouldnt need an alignment
     
  15. Dec 15, 2013 at 5:19 PM
    #15
    twp

    twp Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for this thread. I'm ordering bushings this week.
     
  16. Dec 16, 2013 at 7:22 AM
    #16
    The Driver

    The Driver Trail Runner/Barefoot Beach Runner/Snow Skier

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    Awesome thread, thanks OP, and those who posted good info!
     
  17. Dec 17, 2013 at 8:24 AM
    #17
    JLee50

    JLee50 Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone had to replace a rack due to excessive play? I have play in my wheels that doesn't seem to be transmitted entirely to the other side, but it is moving the tie rods.
     
  18. Dec 17, 2013 at 8:40 AM
    #18
    Racer X

    Racer X Well-Known Member

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    I did both bushings and the "tack-weld mod" on my "04. But, instead of welding, I drilled a hole in the steering column and put another spring pin in. This fixed the problem that you described on mine. To check for play in the steering column, reach under the dash and hold the steering column while moving the wheel back and forth. If you feel any play, it will causing "wondering" while driving it.
     
  19. Dec 17, 2013 at 8:46 AM
    #19
    JLee50

    JLee50 Well-Known Member

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    I get play in the front wheels while holding the steering wheel motionless against the wheel lock - so I think something in the rack (or possibly the shaft) is moving...I'll check the shaft. Thanks!

    When I move one wheel, the other doesn't seem to move as much (so it seems like play inside the rack), but it's hard to tell.
     
  20. Dec 17, 2013 at 9:00 AM
    #20
    StAndrew

    StAndrew Wait for it...

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    Everyone be carefull on the tack weld mod. IIRC, the initial designe was to keep that shaft from ramming through your chest in a crash.

    The tack well should be just enought to hold, but break in case of a crash.

    Racer, If your pin is too strong, you run a (very small but very serious) risk of impailing yourself.

    Just something for everyone to keep in mind.
     

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