Steering shakes on the brakes, pedal doesn't!

So I've been reading through all these threads on steering wheel shake issues, but I still don't have a clear idea of what is causing it.

Anyway here's my situation...

I have a 2011 4x4

$151 4-door QAA is Compatible with 2016-2020 Toyota Tacoma 6 Piece Stainless Body Molding Insert Trim Kit, 1.5" Width MI16172

4-door TRD Sport with 25,700 on the clock. Stock 17" wheels, Bridgestone tires and stock suspension.

The last time I had the tires rotated I began getting a progressively worse steering wheel shake when getting on the brakes at speeds above 60mph.

Importantly though, I feel nothing but smooth braking force in the pedal, the shake is entirely in the steering wheel and only above 60mph. I feel and here nothing at surface road speeds.

The brakes work fine and they make no noise. Pads look ok as far as thickness. I don't have much brake dust at all. I've had warped rotors before on a '90s Jeep Cherokee I owned formerly and the vibration was mainly in the brake pedal only a little in the wheel. This doesn't feel like that.

But since it started immediately after the tire rotation I'm thinking it must be a tire balance or wheel alignment issue.

Of course the dealer claimed warped rotors over the phone and wants to hit me up for $260... Since this has been going on for several thousand miles I really can't believe my rotors would be warped with such low mileage.

I'm holding off on that and having them rotate and rebalance the tires. if it is the rotors I'm going aftermarket and will do the work myself.

Anyway comments?

 

We had a minivan that did this too, years ago.....it was almost scary the way the steering wheel would shake under high speed braking. Having the rotors turned helped tremendously but did not quite completely cure it. My guess is a rotor.

 

warped rotors.

my truck as well. i think i heated mine up, coming off a big mountain with all my camping gear, and a dead elk. i had a heavy load.

my truck is in the shop right now getting new rotors and pads. the caliper bolts were on super tight, it was super cold weather, my knees hurt, my shoulder hurt from shooting my hunting bow too much...
buddy at the shop agreed to put on my parts for me.

i was super lazy. should fix it.

 

That's what happened to our van. After a trip down Mt. Washington in N.H., the shakes started. Coming down the Mt, the brakes were so hot that the wheels would burn ya touching them.

 

rotors same thing on dads tundra @ 170k

 

Hmmm... but shouldn't there be some feeling in the brake pedal as well? That's what my old Jeep did, and what is throwing me off with this issue. The pedal feels smooth

 

My van had a smooth pedal feel also. Turn the rotors (it's a cheap test)....if it's "better" you know you're on to the issue.

 

get new rotors....the $260 price is for what? just rotors plus install, and reuse the pads or?


you can do a complete job with after decent after market rotors and pads for maybe $150 or less, get drilled or slotted if you prefer, I did, completely happy, went ceramic...


the brakes in these trucks are nice unless you are standing on them hard coming down hills, then they heat up pretty good, accelerating the warpage factor...

 

I warp factory rotors about every 50k miles and replace them because of the wobbling during braking at higher speeds. Turning them doesn't help, either. Damn 33" tires make it hard on the brakes, even ceramics. The factory rotors suck balls and warp way too easy.

 

P.S. - a crummy alignment can cause this same wobble in the wheel but not in the pedal. This was a fix one of the times I had this issue, the other times it was due to warped rotors.

 

Yeah I've done brakes before and I do them on my GSX-R1000 regularly, so its not a big deal.

I think the $260 is for new rotors and pads.

I've found good aftermarket rotor sets on line for under $100. If OEM are this weak (25k?) I'm not sure I want another set of those.

 

Definitely the Rotors. I JUST went through this process less than a month ago. replaced my OEM rotors about a year ago with Duralast pads and rotors... they lasted no more than 6 months.. never again. Had steering wheel shutter when braking.. bought pads and rotors from toyota.. installed.. all smooth and will be sticking with OEM for now.

 

I only replace with OEM rotors and pads, and I still get warped within 50k miles. It sucks.

 

I have been up Mt Washington 15 times in my 2011 since I bought it (we have radio gear up there) same pads and rotors. They are pretty big rotors but your problem sounds like warped rotors my 97 had the original rotors at 2885K. You guys must be on the brakes hard.

 

But see, that's the thing. I'm not hard on the brakes. I have a 10 mile commute and most of the time I'm on my motorcycle. I use engine braking wherever possible and I've got only 25k miles on this truck in THREE YEARS, Most people have 45-50k by this point.

And this is my 6th Toyota truck since 1978 and the first one to ever have a brake issue. Its very unexpected.

 

Balance problems can feel much worse while braking too. Unless you just want to spend $$ on brake parts as an experiment, try rotating the wheels back, checking balance and rebalancing as needed would be a good move at that time as well. A warped rotor will most certainly give symptoms well below 60 mph, where your situation sounds much more like a balance problem, or possibly a tire problem.

 

got my truck back..no more brake shudder. (for now).

hope it does it in the summer next time..wrenching in the cold is a young guys thing..okay..a younger guys thing.

i have money..

 

I've had similar issues with several vehicles. It could very well just be tires. I would start with rotating the tires again and see if the shaking goes away. If that solves it, go have the tires balanced. Otherwise it's going to be rotors.

Only shaking above 60 when on the brakes and felt through the steering wheel is actually pretty common for warped rotors in my experience, but like I said, I have had similar symptoms from brakes and tires.

 

Thanks guys, yea a tire rotation is a cheap and easy thing to try. I can do that myself. The shaking definitely does not happen at all under 50mph and you really don't feel it bad until braking from over 60mph.

I'm going to try the rotation this weekend.

 

I think you answered your own question. Either the formerly rear tires were out of balance / out of round, or the mechanic grossly overtorqued the lugnuts on installation.