Steering Shaking 45-55mph

A wheel is either 100% hubcentric or 100% lugcentric.
Basically, they have to be mounted and secured on the balancer the same way they are mounted and secured on the vehicle.
The majority of wheel balances use a cone collet and clamping hood. This works if the wheel is a 100% hubcentric and the machine is accurate.

The adapter you reference uses a fitted collet and lug plates with flat adapters.

A lug centric wheel needs to be mounted and secured to the machine through the lugs only.

Now, if you have a lugcentric wheel with a hub bore that matches your hub, it's 50/50.
This can cause problems if the bolt circle does not coincide with the hub circle.

I use to think hubrings were needed...nope, just needs the correct balance.

And before anyone says it, load is not transfered through the wheel bore to the hub.

 

Thanks! Very helpful and answers why my lugcentric aftermarkets aren't correctly balanced after multiple tries.

 

In theory the center hole on a wheel should be the dead center. So if you are balancing it using a cone, it shouldn't matter if the wheels mount hub centric or lug centric. This was always the source of mis-information from that Jackhole Gadget of URD. His misguided contention was that Toyota wheels were lug centric therefore needed a bolt plate adapter to balance using the lug holes. This was absolutely wrong, but he put together a website so that made it legit. While he was knowledgeable regarding the 3.4 super charger, the guy was clueless about wheels. Apologies for spending time with the history, but there are still a lot of people from TTORA that repeat the bad info.

In any case with the exception of stamped steel wheels the center is the center and you can balance using that as a mounting point. However, and this is the big however you do need the correct cone. This is where it gets tricky. The large hub holes are hard to center on the shaft. If you don't center on the balancer shaft, you won't get an accurate balance.

Say you are able to get your aftermarket wheels balanced properly, but they are lug centric, you are not out of the woods. You are then trying to center them using lug nuts. In theory, it should work because most after market wheels use acorn lug nuts that have a 60 degree taper. This should center them as you tighten, but it doesn't always and with 100lbs wheel/tire combos, it is even harder. That is where hub centric rings come in handy. They essentially turn the wheels into being hub centric and if your wheels are properly balanced and they center on the hub perfectly, you should get a smooth ride.

 

Gotcha. Thanks! 3/4 of mine were good. The last one I feel they should have remounted in a different orientation and tried again.....but alas. .I'm due for new tires soon anyway so I'll just find a shop that will try to get it right.

 

The key is the cone. There is a special cone that is referred to as the Tacoma cone. If they use that, they should have no problem centering it on the shaft. Wrap that up with hub centric rings and stay away from tires Mud, Wild, and Hog in the name and you should be good!

 

Haha! Yeah...these were grabbers....next ones ridge grapplery

 

I had a set of Ultra Wheels that never felt right. They would balance on the machine but always shake. They were the Toyota bore but with conical seat lugs. It eventually drove me so nuts I bought the Toyota SEMA pro wheels and transferred the same tires onto them.

Not a problem since.

 

This is definitely as everyone is saying a balance issue. 95 percent of the time.
One thing you can try which should work is balance beads . You would pull the weights off and take out the valve stem pour these special beads in the hole and put the valve out a re air up and your done
The wheel is balanced.
They work very well