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Steering wheel feels too "free" at highway speed

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by RAT PRODUCTS, Oct 16, 2013.

  1. Oct 16, 2013 at 6:25 PM
    #21
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    You lifted on stock UCA's? You're going to need aftermarket UCA's if you want that much caster, the techs can't get both your camber and caster in spec because of the lack of adjust-ability at the upper ball joint.
     
  2. Oct 16, 2013 at 6:27 PM
    #22
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS [OP] RAT Products

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    Yeah. Guess I will just live with it until I get new uppers.
     
  3. Oct 16, 2013 at 6:38 PM
    #23
    TheCookieMonster

    TheCookieMonster Well-Known Member

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    try replacing the sway bar bushings with polyurethane ones easy and cheap to do in your driveway,it helped my truck feel tighter even after I replaced the rack bushings it felt loose. Your steering rack is bad only if it leaks steering fluid all over .
     
  4. Oct 16, 2013 at 6:43 PM
    #24
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    Sway bar bushings would help the truck react faster to steering inputs which does make it feel tighter, but they wouldn't change the way the steering itself feels at all.
     
  5. Oct 16, 2013 at 6:48 PM
    #25
    TheCookieMonster

    TheCookieMonster Well-Known Member

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    1st GEN Toyota trucks always have had a very sensitive front end once you start adding on lift kits and 33 inch tires it amplifies the loose steering wheel feeling
     
  6. Oct 16, 2013 at 6:51 PM
    #26
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    Yes because you can't get the caster in spec with a lift unless you get aftermarket UCA's.
     
  7. Oct 16, 2013 at 7:12 PM
    #27
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS [OP] RAT Products

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    I took the sway bar off. Might put it back on for winter though.
     
  8. Oct 16, 2013 at 7:19 PM
    #28
    TACO TX

    TACO TX Well-Known Member

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    Because when you turn the wheel back and forth you can feel and hear the lash in the rack. Tie rods and all steering components are good. The loose steering has gotten worse over the last year. Also a small leak on the left side, noticed it when i pulled the bellow's off to check tie rods.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2013
  9. Oct 16, 2013 at 7:24 PM
    #29
    PcBuilder14

    PcBuilder14 Well-Known Member

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    I thought that was just part of the beast when lifting and getting wider tires?
     
  10. Oct 16, 2013 at 7:26 PM
    #30
    KenLyns

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    From your gallery photo on Oct 5, you installed wide wheel spacers? This effectively increases the tire's leverage over the front suspension kingpin axis and can cause the looseness you feel at speed. Look up "scrub radius" in the suspension design books if you are interested to learn more.

    To compensate, get an alignment and dial in a small amount of toe-in, and get as much caster as possible without screwing up camber.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Oct 16, 2013 at 7:29 PM
    #31
    RAT PRODUCTS

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    I'm still rolling on stock tires. I've been lifted since June and it wasn't this bad until recently.

    And yes, just did wheel spacers and now I get issues.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2013
  12. Oct 16, 2013 at 7:35 PM
    #32
    TIPICOTACO

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    subbed cause I've got all the same issues :(

    gonna start w/ rotors n pads (warped and worn), then tire balance, then alignment
     
  13. Oct 16, 2013 at 7:36 PM
    #33
    PcBuilder14

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    Well it might also be because my passenger side inner tie-rod is frozen.... :eek:
     
  14. Oct 16, 2013 at 8:23 PM
    #34
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    Same problem here. Was terrible before I lifted it. After lifting I changed rack bushings and tie rod ends while getting an alignment. Felt great for about a week and it's just as bad as it was before. Driving with any sort of wind is almost scary. Eve Driving without wind makes me look drunk I bet
     
  15. Oct 16, 2013 at 8:40 PM
    #35
    KenLyns

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    Well that explains it. If you engage 4H on pavement, you should also see more torque steer, again because the tires now have more authority.
     
  16. Oct 16, 2013 at 8:43 PM
    #36
    PcBuilder14

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    Wow, that doesn't sound safe/fun haha

    Mine was fine, a little less control after the lift, then more walking after the bigger tires. Now that I've been on a lot of trails, rocks, and a couple jumps I need to replace my tie-rods...
     
  17. Oct 16, 2013 at 9:12 PM
    #37
    Digiratus

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    Caster, caster and more caster.

    And don't let the alignment tech tell you it's in spec at 1.6-1.7*. Those specs apply to a non-lifted Tacoma. 3 degrees of caster will give you that heavy steering wheel feel and you'll actually be able to safely let go of the wheel or take you eyes off the road for a moment.
     
  18. Oct 16, 2013 at 9:15 PM
    #38
    PcBuilder14

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    These are my most recent alignment specs. As close as they could get with the frozen tie-rod. Opinions?
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Oct 16, 2013 at 9:18 PM
    #39
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS [OP] RAT Products

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    It sounds like I can't get 3* with stock ball joints.

    Guess I'll have to trade a full set of skid plates for some UCAs once I get my transfer skid all figured out. :D
     
  20. Oct 16, 2013 at 9:24 PM
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    Digiratus

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    The caster is about as good as you can get with stock UCAs. Is the steering twitchy at highway speeds? The toe is a little off if its in the red. This might be a result of the tech trying to get as high a caster as possible at the cost of the other two settings. :notsure:

    The toe setting has the biggest impact on tire wear.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2013
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