Steering Wheel resistance while pressing the brake?

We’ll also check the steering shaft ujoint as suggested early on. I’m wondering if larger wheels, larger contact patch could be part of the problem.

 

when I release the brake and start rolling, and the steering can finally get to its end, it does make a slight high pitched whine kind of sound. It stops when I back off the steering wheel slightly... I thought this noise was fairly normal since its hitting the end of the travel in the steering system?

 

It is normal to have this sound you describe at the end of travel of a perfectly functioning steering system. I take it the ptich doesn't change when you reach the hard spot in the travel?

If so, I suspect a steering rack control valve problem (aka spool valve) or, as others have suggested, a bind point in your input shaft to the steering rack. To rule out the shaft, you could disconnect the input shaft at the steering rack and turn the wheel to see if you feel any bind here. Caution: Before disconnecting make match marks and put a loose bungee cord tied to the wheel and something else in the vehicle. The point of the bungee is so you'll know how many times you turned the wheel. This is important so you don't mess up your clocksprings.

 

cool, yea no sounds when I hit the sticking point. thanks for the tip, maybe we'll try that on saturday!

 

So @Waasheem graciously came out to look at my truck today, and we narrowed the problem down to worn suspension, specifically the LCA ball joints, which are really worn out.

We sprayed them with some WD40, which seems to have alleviated the problem.

I know it's a temp fix, but I'm hoping to rebuild my suspension soon, so I'll get it all fixed up properly then.

 

If the LCA is that bad, it's dangerous.

As in life threatening at any speed at all.

For you, passengers and those around you, please repair before driving again.

 

It is something that needs fixing. I don’t think we’re quite at life threatening worn. If ignored it would get there. It has a tiny amount of play, as in so tiny it’s difficult to see.

Bandaide repair would be to take the cotter pin off, tighten the nut good, put a new cotter pin in (important step). Start shopping around to get it fixed. I have a couple places on my end of town but it’s a bit far.

Just my opinion, again I’m no suspension steering expert.

 

I don’t see what tightening the nut another turn would do if the slop is in the joint. If it was improperly torqued from the get go it could result in the tapered portion not fully seating.

 

Im checking around to see what it takes to replace the ball joint myself. I have access to most tools, it's just a matter of finding the time, and if I feel like I'm capable of doing it properly.

 

I'm also a little lost as to why it was only binding when I'm stopped, and why it doesn't bind when I'm rolling.

 

just rent a press. It’s pretty easy. Remove LCA from spindle which is 2 bolts, remove lower shock mount, loosen the LCA frame mounting bolts. At that point the LCA is free from the vehicle to have at it.