Stereo upgrade question- Amp related

I just ordered the Subaru tweets, Kicker cs 6x9s, and 6.75s. Going to see how it sounds after I install them, but if I decide to get an Amp, what would you guys get?

Can I get a 4 channel for the tweets and fronts and run the backs off the head unit? Or run the tweets off the head and the doors off the amp? Or should I look at 6 channel amps? Not sure what is possible with the factory unit. This is a budget Stereo upgrade, so please keep suggestions between 100-300ish range. Size of Amp matters as it will go under one of the front seats.

The tweeters are 150w rms, the 6x9s are 150w rms and the 6.75s are 100w rms So I want something that pairs well with them.

Looking for opinions, and I apologize in advance for not searching first if this has been beaten to death. But after 11 months of ownership and constant modding, I am reaching burnout. thanks guys

 

for $300 max, you're mostly committed to going without an amp.

6 channel amps start at around $270. not including power wiring(about $50-100). depending on the amp, it'd also require external crossovers to properly divert the signal, which are going to be about $70-100 minimum.

any decent 4 channel amp is going to still be around $100-200, plus $50-100 for wiring, still maxing out your determined budget.

if you're as burned out on modding as you indicated, i would definitely recommend avoiding the amp method for the time being.

 

Same exact setup here, except I amped with the kicker key (50Wx4 RMS), and stuffed it behind the dash. Made my own harness to tap between the HU and existing speaker wire. It was the easiest part of the audio install.

It sits right at your max budget, though I got mine as part of a set from a member who had second thoughts on their install.

 

How is it working for you? That Amp has good reviews, it's on my list of contenders. Which speakers are you powering with it? Thanks for the info, 300ish is the amp budget alone, I'm not including wiring, harnesses, etc that will be needed in that amount.

 

I'm running kicker CS and Subaru tweets. The amp makes that combo tolerable. As many have said, those speakers will pump out a lot of treble. The cool little microphone/auto equalizer thing helps dial it back to something much more balanced.

As far as clarity/volume, it has plenty of both. I'm impressed by it. It's a great little unit.

 

Let's try to stay focused on the questions being asked. If you don't have any info on what I'm looking for, maybe suggest what you think would be a smarter solution or choice instead of ragging about my low budget please. 300ish was the budget for the amp, I'm aware of the additional materials and costs associated with them.

 

That's great, as it sits I just want some volume and clarity. Where did you have to put the mic? And are you running 6x9s only or do you have the 6 3/4s in the rear too? How are you powering all 6 with the 4 channel? Sorry for the stupid questions, I'm going to install the speakers myself but I'm going to have a shop install the amp and a few other electrical things for me and want to explain to them what needs done.

 

I have a KTP-445U amp hidden up behind the glove box...But I'm access cab so It's bridged...
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46

 

Oh wow, that thing is tiny! I was going to go under the seat, but in the dash would be awesome!! Does it put off a lot of heat? Thanks for the link, I'm going to check it out

 

It's powered by the normal head unit, puts of heat but nothing excessive...Just make sure you set the gain before completing the install...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/media/albums/polk-mm6501-and-alpine-ktp-445u-install.30097/

 

The mic is part of the amps calibration process. You put it on the headrest, leave the car, and let it go through it's close-encounters-of-the-3rd-kind test tones. After it's done you unplug the mic and store it elsewhere.

Mine powers all 6 speakers. I have it plugged into the factory wiring which means the front channels are going through the factory inline crossovers. Is it the best setup in the world? No. Is it easy? Yes.

Of all things to DIY, I'd definitely recommend DIY-ing the amp. Why? Most shops will cut and splice your factory wiring, making a huge unreliable mess of it. If you do it yourself you can control how it's wired. It was very easy, there are guides all over TW depending on what model year you have (16-19 or 20+). I simply sat on my couch with a couple of Metra connectors, a self soldiering kit, and a bottle of wine, and made my own harness. Then when it came time to break into the dash it was a plug and play affair. The actual amp install took less than 20 minutes, 30 if you include calibration. Easier than the speakers.




The only tricky bit on mine was that I also wired in a line for the underseat sub to tap into. That was a time consumer. But the amp is fully wired and sitting on top of the HU in this pic.



And yes, much easier than the doors.

 

Thanks for all this info Rock

 

sorry, didn't mean to come off so negative, just trying to bring up some of the additional costs most people don't always account for. it wasn't clear from your original post that you were anticipating cost beyond the amp itself, i understood it to be an 'all-in' number.

the kicker key is a popular option, much because of the integrated dsp, and the overall compact size that makes it easy to stash away. if you were to decide you don't need the dsp functionality, there's a number of 4 channel amps that will work, it's mostly a decision on how much wattage you need, or what kind of installation space you're willing to dedicate to the amp. the key overall is about $100 more than a non-dsp amp with similar output, which isn't a bad deal for the functionality.

i generally recommend sticking with CEA-rated amps, as it's a consistent testing method to compare output wattage, whereas cheaper non-CEA rated amps tend to take let the marketing departments take the lead in advertising the specs.

 

Thanks soundman. The more I look and read, I think the micro amps may be fine- but maybe a higher wattage unit mounted under the seat would be a similar-priced option that would give me a large upgrade in performance? I just don't want to spend 269 for the kicker key 50w only to find out the mini alpine 45w for 169 would have made me just as happy. Or spend 269 for the key when 279 gets me a JL JD400 75w(I have no experience with this particular amp, but I've always run JL in the past and they are great amps) or maybe I should look at higher wattage units in the 100w+ per channel range? What would that do for my cheap kicker setup?

I've had stereos in the past that cost 2-3k but I'm old now and I don't need that level of system anymore, just louder and clear so I can hear calls better, and listen to music with the windows down, better bass, sound quality, etc.. I'm pretty deep into mods so far ($$$$) with this build and trying to cut costs where I can without having anything feel or sound cheap.

In the past I'd just buy the flagship stuff and be done with it but I desperately need sliders and skids, so yeah...

 

i don't like to recommend specific amps, mostly because everyone's got their own brand preference, and in all reality, a 50x4 jl is going to perform exactly the same as a 50x4 kicker, which will work the same as a 50x4 alpine. in a blind test, no one is going to be able to tell the difference between any same-wattage amp.

if you've always used jl in the past, i'd suggest sticking with them. nothing's going to beat your preference. that said, the jl jd400/4 is the only jl amp that fits your price range. the size will be somewhat of an issue, it's going to need to be mounted under the front seats, or behind the rear seats. imo, 100x4 is overshooting the moderate goals you've indicated, but is still within kickers recommended wattages for the door speakers.

 

In your opinion, do you think it's worth the trouble for the extra 25w for each channel with the kicker CS speakers? What kind of performance difference do you think there would be? Would it just get to the point of distortion and be wasted?

 

according to kickers specs, 100w will be perfectly fine. but i've really got nothing to go on other than their listed specs.

it would be worth running a high pass filter, around 40-60hz with those speakers though.

 

I like to run separates up front and coax in the rear . They come with there own crossover and smooth out the sound. You will need some type of DSP for the radio. So unless you want to run a high end amp with a built in dsp. I would go with the kicker Key. Also …. What are your plans for bass?Maybe consider a small powered sub like the kicker for under the seat just to give a little bump. A sub is a game changer

 

Alright, the Subaru tweeters arrived today and I installed them after work. It took me a little over an hour working in a dark parking lot, checking everything twice to ensure a clean install with no broken tabs, etc. They sound awesome! I have a 2022 with the base 8 inch head unit. Much more crisp and detailed after adjusting the EQ a bit. I messed with the fader but it sounds the best to me dead center. Very excited to see if there is the same level of improvement with the speakers. They should be here Wednesday and hopefully I can install them this weekend. I have an amp and some other goodies in my crutchfield cart but may hold off until I hear the new setup. Thanks to all who have chimed in, I'll post updates for future reference.

 

Thats awesome!

Since you are breaking into the doors anyway... If you have an extra hour or so, I'd recommend laying down some mat. Give your new speakers a solid base where they can really push. It makes a surprisingly large difference.

S'mart mat Smartmat Favorite 90 Mil 15 Sqft Car Sound Deadener Material RED 150 Mil 20 Sqft Insulation for Noise Vibro and Sound Reduction Material

https://www.amazon.com/Smartmat-Smart-mat-Insulation-Reduction/dp/B09M8HFQ5K