sticker and badge removal

sorry man didnt mean to be rude. just kinda stressed.

 

A car that I owned before my Tacoma I had used to get the glue off the emblems. I found that it did take the clear coat off, it made it rough(didn't do what it did to yours though). My buddy who worked at Toyota at the time told me to wash and wax it. We did and everything was back to normal.

 

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thank you so much man! seriously so just giver a good detailing tomorrow and all should be well. hopefully my parents are arriving to look at my most recent project next week and take the dog back to the states with them for a while until work calms down and my old man would kill me if he saw that shit.

 

any good polish that you can recommend. or should i try to find a 3m pad here in northern canada....fml

 

Oh it's fine. I was being nice when I said that. I was going to say the other things I truly felt about your response. It wasn't appropriate(in accordance to forum rules) and I know(understand) I wouldn't be too happy if that happened to my vehicle either. We're all here to help each other. Don't worry. I'm probably going to say something douchie too and it's going to piss you off. It's the internet, we take it with a grain of salt and move on.

I was going to say that if you didn't have enough time by the time your parents seen it. You could Plasti Dip your doors and cover it until you were able to do a wax and what not. Then I realized where you were and I'd be very surprised if you could find Plasti Dip where you lived.

 

The 3m pad is for removing stickers/adhesive and it seems you're past that. If it feels soft wait for all the solvents to fully dry and the surface to be hard again before rubbing or polishing.

 

The 3M won't help if it is hazy due to scuffed up clear coat/paint, it is to be used to avoid damaging those. If damage is done, a good buffing will help you out.

 

And this is TW OP. Welcome!

 

cool cool thanks guys so much for your help ill post some more pictures tomorrow with the before and after of this moment of stupidity.

 

You wanna know something funny. A guy on the dipyourcar.com forum a person is having the same issue. They just can't get the glue off(not bad like yours). They've used heat, WD-40, Goo Gone and it hasn't come off. Kind of interesting with two threads on the samething thing, using the same products.

It's all learning. We're all here to learn. Don't feel stupid.

 

What man doesn't have fishing line?

 

I was a professional painter for many years and I've never seen Goo Gone do that to any paint, not even musical instrument lacquer. By any chance did you use "Goof Off" instead? That stuff destroys paint and unfortunately the bottles look a LOT alike.

You can try buffing that out (gently and by hand only, with a fine polish wax and for God's sake don't use a motor buffer) but IMHO looks like you're headed for an appointment at a body shop of your choice, as that doesn't look too fixable. Good luck.

 

Or duct tape?

 

FML- I just looked at the bottle and it says goof off... heartbroken. i guess hand polishing will be it. for now and a little mud. to cover it up. would the guy have to repaint the entire car or could he do the doors bc i have some paint left from when my old man wrecked it

 

Oh shit man, I am sorry. That being the case let me give you some advice. Goof off seems to penetrate the paint, making it soft. I don't know how permanent that is. At this point I don't think polish will do anything but make it a bit worse, but give it a shot anyway. What I would normally do is let it sit for a few weeks and THEN try to polish it, but I understand you have circumstances where you need to try something now. Be very gentle.

A good body guy should be able to just reshoot the door and if it's a fairly recent Taco they should match. If it's older it's not going to quite match. Might not be a big deal, sounds like it's been repainted previously, yes? You might be well served by hitting the local junkyard for an intact older door that matches yours and replacing the door, because a professional repaint of your door is not going to be cheap. I think the quote for doing my wife's CR-V was almost a grand. Repainting your whole truck - and let me just say this right now, if you're thinking about Maaco or Scheib (if they're still around) you may as well just set your truck on fire because they do shit work with no prep and your truck will rust out within a year or so - would probably be several thousand dollars. I don't know for sure because I've been out of the biz a long time but I don't think prices have changed that much.

I'm really sorry, man. It's an easy mistake to make, so don't beat yourself up about it. I gotta head out with the wife to breakfast, but I'll post a little bit more later about your other options, none of which will make your truck look better so you may not care

 

What's the difference between "Goo Gone" and Goof Off"? I've never used "Goof Off".

 

Was thinking about your other options at breakfast and you don't have much. If you didn't care about cosmetics, I'd just let it sit for a couple of months so the paint can re-cure, sand it all off around the damaged area, rust treat with your treatment of choice, prime it and get on with my life.

If cosmetics are an issue, your cheapest option is an undamaged door out of a junkyard. Your best aesthetic option is a repaint by a good body shop.

Good luck.

 

One fucks yo shit up apparently.

 

I'm not a chemist but there's an easy way to find out. Let's look at the MSDS hazmat sheets.

Goo Gone:

Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated light < 95 64742-47-8
Tripropylene glycol methyl ether 1 – 10 25498-49-1
Citrus extracts blend 1 – 10 94266-47-4 / 8028-48-6

Layman's terms, it's pretty much all oils. You wouldn't want to put this on paint and let it sit, but wipe-on wipe-off would probably be fine. I wouldn't put it on paint I really gave a shit about, though (my background is antique finishes). Let's check out Goof Off:

Acetone 67-64-1
CAS #
60.0 -100.0 %
1.
2. Xylene (mixed isomers) {Benzene, dimethyl-} 1330-20-7 10.0 -30.0 %
3. Ethylbenzene {Ethylbenzol; Phenylethane} 100-41-4 1.0 -5.0 %
4. Hydrotreated light distillate (petroleum) 64742-47-8 7.0 -13.0 %
Diethylene glycol monobutyl ether
{2-(2-Butoxyethoxy)ethanol {(a glycol ether)}
5. 112-34-5 1.0 -5.0 %

Well, the formatting on their MSDS didn't transfer well. No matter, it's pretty clear, this stuff is mostly acetone. Acetone is, of course, nail polish remover. Also worth noting, this stuff is a LOT more toxic than Goo Gone. There are also two variants of the product: one uses acetone and one uses ethanol. Neither one plays well with finishes.

This is not something I would put on any paint, period. Or plastic.

I use only two things to get stuff off paint; lemon oil or a good wax, like Meguiar's or Turtle Wax. Unlike most car folks, I prefer Turtle Wax, but most of my finish work is on wood and it seems to work a little better on finished wood surfaces. Goof Off, Goo Gone and WD-40...well, I just wouldn't do it.

 

After almost four hours of work with a serious polish with mothers scratch remover and a and a full wax job you can hardly tell there was any damage. I had my buddys wife come out and see if she could notice anything didnt tell her where as if my folks were to just walk up to the truck and she didnt notice anything. so for now this fix will have to work.

What a process though Thanks guys for all the advise.