Still misfiring

You really need to do that VC, tube, and coil job. Where are you? In what State? Honestly, I’m not too upset about you having new fuel injectors. Do this correctly and that truck will be a monster but in a good way. By the grace of God mine just won’t quit…

 

I'm in San Diego. I think if the injectors didn't have much to do with anything, my friend 'might' take care of me. How much, idk? Have to figure it out first on Thursday.

 

Well, I’m rooting for you. Figure $350ish for the ignition coils, $50 for spark plugs and say $40 for the gasket set plus labor. Good luck!

 

Well like I think I said earlier...maybe not?, All plugs have bee replaced within the last few months. Cylinder 2 coil was replaced. They said they switched the coil to another cylinder to test it, and it was fine...or something like that. I know he said they tested the coil elsewhere or something? I guess the only thing I'm worried about is if it's a head gasket like was mentioned in here. $40 for that?? I thought a head gasket was a major deal, and ran really expensive?

 

No. The valve cover gasket not head gasket. Replace the valve cover and spark tube gaskets if the rest is ok, then. Does the engine coolant overflow bottle have clean pink coolant in it or is it swamp water?

 

nothing is overflowing. Nothing looks wrong under the hood.

 

New error code this morning upon startup. The idle did as described above, move slightly up and down. Then check engine/trac off light came on. Same P0302 code, but a new one with it. P219a. Google lists this as "The trouble code P219A can be defined as Bank 1 Air/Fuel Ratio Imbalance." First time I ever saw this code during this whole ordeal. It had a hard time getting RPMs up at startup with those codes, so I turned off truck and restarted it again. Was able to drive, but same as I listed above...ran slightly rough until I was able to punch it. Then it was fine. Truck had a hard time starting up again when I left it for a couple of hours, but no error codes ensued this time.

 

Standing on the passenger side can you snap a pic of the engine and upload it, please.

 

Has anyone done a compression/leak down test yet? After doing some spark and fuel related stuff with no success, getting a handle on the base/mechanical condition of the engine becomes more important

That's a nice way of saying stop throwing parts at it and start with the basics. I wouldn't do anything more until you get some compression numbers and leakdown results

 

This was mentioned above. All this will be passed along to my guys, who said to pass along anything you guys might think of that they haven't yet. For all I know, they already did all this? I am not truck/repair savvy.

 

Oh shit. This is a 4 banger? Here I was thinking it was a 6 cylinder.

I diagnosed a truck like this with a 4.0 once with the same kind of code. You need to have him check out that fuel pump and really check it well. As in graph out the short term and long term fuel trim for a while and see if there are any major deviations going lean and then also have him hook a fuel pressure gauge all the while and really watch that thing good while it's idling or whenever it acts up the most.

The truck that I inspected had a few scorched fuel injectors due to the fuel pump failing, sending it lean under the most unpredictable times. It was very difficult to find the cause of his symptoms but after some long term testing I found what I did and he walked away happy that his truck was good to go in the end.

Given that these later gen 2nd gens are documented and known to have real pieces of trash fuel pumps, and given your code of the air fuel ratio imbalance... Yeah, that's the route I'd lean into.

If that fares out fine after thorough and in depth testing, valves or head gasket.

 

I'm kinda curious if the correct injectors were installed, people often get into trouble with swapping injectors. They either get cheap/defective ones or the incorrect ones.
Injectors don't go bad very often and they are pretty easy to test with an injector tester and fuel pressure gauge.

 

Well as I said above, they are a very reputable shop in San Diego. So you would assume they have the right ones. They had to order them because they didn't have them in stock. I had to pay for the pre order. You can judge for yourself here if you like- https://www.pbautorepair.com/

 

At the very least replace the valve cover and spark plug tube gaskets. Is your power brake reservoir close to empty?

 

I have no idea

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-v6-tacoma-misfire-rough-idle-plug-foul-code-p219a.655970/

 

So truck is at the shop right now. I called for an update, and he said the mechanic is still looking at it. A friend, not related to the shop, just told me they think it is my catalytic converter and all the sensors? What is the group's opinion on that?

 

Opinions don't carry much weight over the internet. We're not standing in front of the vehicle doing any testing

Ask them for some backpressure test readings. You remove an upstream O2 sensor, thread in a pressure gauge and look for anything over roughly a pound or 2.

 

Sounds like they are just guessing at this point, it's easy to test for a plugged converter. You simply take the upstream AFR sensor out and screw in a pressure gauge, run the engine and if you get anything more than about 2 psi on a rev they are plugged if not they are fine.