Stock Goodyear Adventure Kevlar sidewall

Are you serious??

Ode to a tire.

 

Yes, twice.

One was a screw on a forest trail doing about 50mph.

Another was a bolt on the freeway.


That being said, I bought the basic Falken AT3’s on my other 16” stock wheels and put them through hell without a problem

 

I still have mine 15K on them and no complaints. I have also used them off-road and was really impressed with how they did (haven't been in mud though) Like @LTG4087 just can't dump them and not really recoup what they're worth. Will probably be getting something different when it's time for new tires, since I will also be getting new wheels.

 

The (Kevlar) cord used in the ply I’m sure is stronger then the regular cord that’s normally used. However that doesn’t mean it’s puncture proof. The plys are laid opposite of each other to give a hatching overlay for strength. I believe those are standard 2ply sidewall. Meaning the first two plys make up the sidewall construction of the carcass. I’ll have to snap some pics of a Wildpeak carcass so everyone can see.

Anyways, any sharpe object, at the right angle with the right amount of force will be able to penetrate any tire sidewall. The cord (Kevlar) is pretty much the last line of defense. If the outer sidewall is gouged you’ll still probably end up needing to replace the tire anyway.

 

My GY Kevlars have been fine on and off road and they're even okay in snow. They've got about 30k miles on them and I'll probably keep em for another 5k. If one of you haters wants to give me your new OEM tires for cheap I'd take them. Otherwise I'll probably go with a different AT like the Discovery AT3, or trusty old Toyo AT2s.

Edit..okay I didn't read the question! I've had no issues with side wall punctures. No idea what black magic goes into making them.

 

Sidewall is just 2 plies. The Kevlar is only on the tread. GY apparently uses special compound on the 2 plies for puncture resistance. But I wanted to know first experience regarding sidewalk design.

The tread puncture is unavoidable, Kevlar or no Kevlar.

LT Tire’s have thicker tread plies. GY in LT has two Kevlar plies.

 

Kevlar is the cord of the plies. It’s not mixed in with the material of the tread, or sidewall


This is a bias tire building machine for construction of motorcycle tires. However you can see the plies. The cord is going in one direction at one angle. The next ply has the cord at the same angle in the opposite direction.

 

Are y’all keeping your stock tires as backup or selling them?

 

I put 45k on my GY’s, one tread puncture at about 8K miles, nothing after that with a fair amount of mild off pavement use, Death Valley roads, etc. Replaced them with KO2’s and no issues with more off pavement use in 20K miles, than on the GY’s. I thought the GY’s were fine in snow and definitely gave better fuel economy than the load range E BFG’s. Quieter and better ride too, but that’s expected. All in all, I think the GY’s were better than their TW reputation would have you believe.

 

Had 2 flats from one screw and one nail in the treads over the first thousand miles. Pulled them and eventually put them on my old farm beater Tundra. KO2's in E Range stand up well to the beating they get out here.

 

goodyear is a terrible tire and the only tire brand I won’t buy again. only tire I have had bad luck with on more than one occasion and I have ran all kinds of brands.and the Goodyear off brands like kelly and fierce are also crap.

 

Anyone else find it surprising how many people have had punctures in the stock tires.

 

Probably just a 1/4 inch self tapping pan head screw

 

Avoid mud at all costs with these tires

 

Well, this thread is about that topic ... but yeah, my rock cut was on a pretty mild road, though the local tire shop guy (in Eastern Oregon) who plugged it said it was very common there, regardless of tire brand.

 

Sliced the Sidewall on my 16 TRD and rode on that for 10k miles before changed tires.

 

Thanks all for your first hand experience. There is no doubt that these tires suck in mud, as do most mild AT (and highway) tires.

The raging debate in my mind is...are these GY's still better than Michelin Defender (for example) in off-road toughness?? (Defender obviously kills it in durability in terms of mileage.)

 

My buddy's shop has butchered my RF tire. 2 plugs yesterday and it was flat this AM. I took the tire off, pumped it up, and found the leak using some soapy water. Going back for plug #3 tomorrow morning. The mechanic literally had one good eye (lost the other to illness), so there's that. I'll show them the actual leak location now that I know.

In any event, I like these tires as long as they aren't prone to leaks. Quiet and grippy at 1K miles.

 

I think these tires are decent. I have had a few mid tires and one, tires in my experience. (Bfg mud terrains and all terrains, Goodyear mud terrains, Mickey Thompson Baja claw radials. I have had mickhelline street tires and various oem tires. The worst were bfg rugged trails.) the best off-road tire were the claws, but the compromise was a mileage, wear and noise.ride comfort hit.

I picked up a screw puncture in one tire (frequenting contusion and oilfield sites) in 20k miles.


They are wearing evenly, and do Not chip badly on caliche.
They work great on rocks sand and dirt. I avoid deep mud out of principled experience.
I will wear them out and replace with something similar eventually but don’t see the expense as a necessity at this time. The truck goes everywhere I need to go as is.

 

Mine were pretty worn at 25k think I replaced them at 30k. And the traction in the snow wasn’t great.