Stock HU Limitations

2018 SR5 DC with the OG Entune HU nonJBL.

Been thinking about my first AV upgrade for my new (used) Tacoma, but I’m still VERY green to AV.

My question is what “source signal” limitations will continue to exist with stock HUs even If I add in other components?

Using completely made up numbers here, but if HU output is 40-20k and the new alpines speakers are 50-40k, does the extra on high end doesn’t even matter?

And will adding a DSP, like the kicker key, be limited to that same 40-20k source frequency from the HU?

Understand addressing sound at the source, but it’s also significantly more expensive than other components.

Also, has anyone been able to find a spec sheet for the Entune 1 unit?

thanks all

 

it's not just the frequency response end points, but also the eq curve that's introduced. the factory radio has a specific eq curve that's been pre-programed as 'ideal' by some engineer somewhere, to make the factory speakers sound as good as they can. once we start changing speakers, that 'ideal' curve is no longer ideal.

i personally didn't agree with their version of 'ideal' at all, even with the factory speakers, and changing the head unit to an aftermarket model with a flat eq output was one of the things that improved the sound system the most for my tastes. however, the stock tweeter crossover can't take the power of an aftermarket radio and distort really fast, leading to a situation where it was easier to change the tweeters to an aftermarket model. i have the tools and materials to update the factory tweeter crossovers, but i deemed it not worth my time.

the idea behind the kicker key is to get rid of the previous 'ideal' factory eq tune. if you're adding an amp, changing the speakers, and adding a tune-flattening dsp, the key is the cheapest option of any brand to get that functionality. however, the disadvantage is that the key cannot be manually adjusted like other dsp's, which is a negative for me.

as far as your specific question on frequency response-- the upper end is basically useless in terms that any option will have better response than you'll ever be able to tell. and the low frequencies are easiest to reproduce electrically, meaning that the factory system is more than responsive than any set of 6x9, 6.5", or even 8" speakers are physically capable of anyways.

 

Appreciate it! I sometimes feel like the hi-res certification is a marketing ploy to trick amateurs like me into paying a premium when most of us can’t even tell the difference.

I’m a live music fan - phish, dead, goose, I appreciate a wide sound stage and hearing the individual instruments, but don’t at all need “loud”.

Might just need some extra power to the rears. So maybe a kicker key might be a good start. Saw a couple retailers that make the premade harness for it so it can be plug and play.

 

high resolution is sort of a crap measurement. it's great that the gear can play to 40khz, but if you're only using 64kb/s encoded mp3's, via bluetooth, you'll never reach that.

personally, i've entirely given up on the rear speakers. i threw in the same peerless drivers i have in my front doors back there, mostly for science. they're really very forgiving and amazing drivers that have been installed in 2 other vehicles with great results. but the rear locations just made for muffled and lackluster sound. i attribute the minimal airspace available there as the culprit. but i also don't like how the rear speakers forcibly pull the sound image behind me and down low. i set my systems up so that it seems like i'm in the front rows of a concert, and the rear speakers take away from that imagery.

i instead would encourage you to invest most of your time in the front speakers, dash and doors. i've been running only upgraded dash/door speakers for the past 2 years and have been very happy with the sound, despite not having a sub, and planning a more comprehensive install 1.5 years ago before things got in the way...

 

Humans can’t hear above 20k, most people’s hearing stops well below 20k.