Stock HU screen bad.. help me replace HU and new front speakers!

So I think I have made up my mind on the Kenwood DMX907S, with the Maestro RR. I’m going to hold off on the speakers and amps for now and see how I like it.

Now the issue is to find one in stock! Anyone have any leads?

I’m also willing to go with the Kenwood DMX706S. Honestly I think it pretty well fits all my wants, but I feel like if im going to replace the radio, I may as well get the 907S. I’d like to have this done in the next 6 weeks, but im not sure I’ll find one in stock.

 

I think that's the one I was recently looking at. Dont need the nav is you have google or apple and the carplay thing. I did the maestro RR too. Bear in mind that wiring harness thing is CRAZY. You will end up with a ton of wires and cables you wont even need. I ended up chopping off anything bulky that wasnt in use, I'm certain less than half of the harness is actually being used. I do have an amped system though.

 

Yeah I’m a little concerned about all the wires!! But honestly it doesn’t look much worse than any other harness that will make the steering wheel controls work. I figure I may as well go with the Maestro. And like you said, it looks like a bunch of the harnesses aren’t even necessary.

 

Several pieces are not necessary. I think there were maybe 3 or 4 different options for the backup camera! But some other parts of the harness, like the one with rca ends specifically to go into the JBL audio system that I don't even have - still needed to be used for like one other wire. Get your toilet plunger ready, you're gonna need it stuffing all that crap into the dash when youre done! Dont forget a bypass resistor, and I highly recommend soldering all connections and using heat shrink, if you can.

 

Bypass resistor??

Also, I will need the TO1 harness for my truck. Will I need anything else? For instance, I see that it’s a special connector for the factory USB port. Will I need that, or will it come with the wiring harness? I saw where some people have to modify the factory panel for a USB port.

 

The kenwood comes with cables. I dont know about your specific truck, but I had what I needed. Bypass resistor so the head unit thinks youre always in park. Forever. And you can do whatever you WANT.

 

Gotcha!

Also, will the Maestro get my factory tailgate camera on my radio screen?

 

I did exactly that, although mine was already wired to an rca connector on my older kenwood unit. So either way works.

 

The bypass you are referring to is the PAC TR1 I believe. Schoshe makes a USB connector adaptor for that model too. Being that you have a newer truck, I think your RR will connect to the camera. I had to run a cable from the RCA output to the camera wires next to the fuse panel but I have a 2010. Below is the PAC TR1 you need to bypass the brake. Below is also a link to the usb adaptor

Scosche TAUSB01B Compatible with Select 2012-16 Toyota/Lexus USB Input Retention Harness

$10 Scosche TAUSB01B Car Radio USB Retention Harness Compatible with Select 2012-2018 Lexus, Scion, Subaru and Toyota Vehicles - Aftermarket Stereo Receiver USB Retention Adapter Kit - See Fit Guide Image

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWGYILI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8XRMM20WB151K9D9ZR97?_encoding=UTF8

 

You don't need anything for the Kenwoods, you just ground the brake sensor wire.

 

I could be wrong, but when I was researching for my install I found some info about how that used to work, but not on the newer units anymore. My bypass resistor thingy was... 6$ on Amazon I think. It works. I may have wasted 6$. Not even the most money I've wasted so far today! (A bunch of cool patches came out, for my headliner. I may have a problem. But also, cool patches!)

 

I used it on my Kenwood excelon unit but my unit is year older. The PAC TR1.

 

It def won’t be there bass wise but the sound deadening will bring the mid bass back big time. That was best thing I did. I got a deal on last years lower end focal for under 300 front and rear. Sound deadening will prob cost you $100 or so for Noico if you do doors and maybe some floor but MainLy doors will help. Roof is big but way more involved. I have done floor, roof and doors and felt the doors was the most noticeable for sound.

When I was super into the sound and car audio clarion ( ages me) and Kenwood excelon were my go tos. Anything with high voltage pre amp outs. But if you go DSP you can make up for it.

 

You won’t need 100$ worth of Noico. $50-60 will Do the doors and leave you some to do the back wall incase you add a sub later. I only did my front doors ans have plenty left to do the real wall. I’ll prob add a couple small sheets to the rear doors even though I won’t be swapping those speakers but to help bring the sound of of them some more. It definitely helped the mid bass up front and the radio helped with the mids and highs on the stock speakers. Once I decide on an amp, I’ll throw in my Hertz comps up front

 

So I want to list off my parts list to make sure I have everything. I think I’m gonna go ahead and order everything except the HU (because out of stock), that way I can have the wiring harnesses soldered up and ready to go once I find a HU.

Maestro Rr
Maestro T01 harness
USB port adapter
PAC TR1
RCA adapter to keep the Aux input
Best Kits TOYK973MG bezel

Am I missing anything?

How patient should I be for the DMX907S? My local audio shop said they can get a DMX706S in a few weeks, but they acted like it would be a while for the 907..

 

Verify if you need the T01 or the T02. Not sure which year range each is for. I know used the TO1 for my 2010. Not sure about e HU. I do know the 5Star shop in Florida stocks a lot of equipment and the owner Paul will ship as well. Pick up some Tesa Tape to tape your wires. Let me find a link to their vid on a taco install to paste below

https://youtu.be/I6vAesY-vjA

 

I just know Crutchfield says I need a T01 harness, but I will do some more checking and verify.

Good video!

 

That may be correct. I was able to order mine and the RR from and eBay seller for a little cheaper. He confirmed I had the right units. Link below. Both were 156$ total


https://www.ebay.com/itm/164155857191

 

That combo is exactly what I threw in to my 09 Tacoma.

I replaced a kenwood DNX6960, which I didnt realize was just MAD slow. Infuriatingly. The previous steering wheel controls was some older unit, swpac? Something like that. I hit a button on my steering wheel, it would affect the unit 2, maybe 3 seconds later. IF IT WENT THROUGH. The new system it all just works like it should. Carplay gets all twitchy if you are in a no signal spot, even if for a second. If youre an apple guy, make sure you download some of your favorite tunes locally. So far if I ask siri to play local stuff it still gets hung up on the no internet part and gives up. I am only recently an apple adopter so there may well be better ways to do this. But just leaving my phone in my pocket and not screwing with cables is a real treat, compared to my 10 year old system that played from an always plugged in ipod touch. What a pain.

 

Big thanks on the eBay link!! I got the Rr and T01 for $160! I did confirm on the idatalink website that I needed the T01 harness.

Also found the Best Kits dash kit for $35 on Walmart. It was labeled as American International, but I’m 95% sure it’s the Best Kits kit.