Stock Width Replacment LCA

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Just trying to help out my fellow TW members.

 

I thought about building uniball stock length lowers for the 1st gens like 3 years ago. After toying with them for a bit I decided it just wasn't worth it so I plated up the stock ones (which Jason posted pictures of a few pages back) really the only problem with stock lowers is the bushings and with arms being so cheap it just didn't make sense. And I really didn't see a reason to go uniball, the stock ball joints don't fail often. Uniballs are a lot larger than the ball joints and with the lower arm adapter with the steering arm it just didn't fit without changing the geometry.

Now as far as vertical uniballs. They wear out faster end of story. That's not a problem if you run them on the upper because it sees very little force. But the lower sees all the force and the lower is longer so it's never the limiting factor so I have never seen a reason to run a vertical lower uniball.

 

No. Does not make sense. It seems to me that there is more force up and down as the suspension cycles. Also, I thought a asked for a truly knowledgeable asshole to answer, and it's nearly impossible to so much as approach Jason's level on that matter.

Need to revise you statement Monte?

 

Carry on,

 

Hopefully more than me.

 

And just the clarify most of the stress applied to a lower spindle pivot is vertical. The horizontal force is mostly applied to the inner pivots on the arm

 

No..I don't think so. Pretty sure I'm correct on my points..

Either way. It would be cool to have a stock are even with the stock ball joint adapter. But only if secondary's mounts and maybe stike pads and limit strap points are part of it.

 

You really don't need to worry about strike pads. This has been gone over a thousand times, an air bump puts less stress on the arm than a rubber bump does. I've built many trucks with an air bump hitting where the stock bump did on a stock lower arm and never had a problem. My brothers Tacoma has been setup this way for 6 years.

 

Interesting. Didn't know that

 

Fair enough.
I haven't followed long travel stuff since around 01 so I checked out that design and reread your OP. All I really see to date is essentially a $1200+ uniball conversion.

Outside of Mr jberry's comment on the ball orientation and the LT version shown using a rod end for steering (included with stock length kit?). I see further things that may or may not warrant some discussion. I'm going by the (2013) pic of the adapter so if it is changed I will stand corrected.

First, it almost looks like a "proof of geometry" non structural mock up. I'm referring mostly to the circular cut out in the upper plate where the 4 spindle mount bolts are and the cut out being open on the inboard side. This leaves the inner two bolts doing very little and this junction needs to have everything possible going for it. I am assuming the cut out is to allow the ball to be up close to the bottom of the spindle, trading off some strength for ground clearance underneath the whole thing, just a guess there.

Second, the strength of the lower end of the stock spindle was questioned in the long travel thread but quickly dismissed. I am of the opinion that the relatively massive 5/8"+ thick OEM joint bolted to the bottom of the spindle adds a significant amount of strength and stability in that area and is actually a needed structural component of the spindle. Then there is the issue of the spindle having only 4-5 useful threads on the inboard 2 bolt holes.

Third, on an OEM joint the outer 2 mount bolts run through sleeves/locating dowels that contribute a bunch to strength. The pic isn't very clear but it looks like the adapter has just 4 holes.

 

Yea ive never seen the kit in person so I couldn't really comment on it. That and I think he has made only two. Not really sure about that either.

One thing I've thought about especially ever since my boots sheared off is I wonder if it would be possible to machine down the tops of the holes on the two inboard bolts to add longer bolts and nuts too. Since they poke out already. Kinda over kill I think as I've never had an issue with bolts since red loctite goes on all of mine every time they come out now but still a thought.

You are right though on how the thickness is probably a large contributing factor and the sleeves.

All things to consider if trying to make a unibal conversion. Which at this rate I don't see it happening anyways.

 

Do you think Delrin would hold up to the task? If so I may have some spun up locally. My truck is a DD with baby carrying duty. MUST be safe.

 

It is very very hard and also brittle though. For a DD, i don't see the need for it since its so expensive when there are poly ones readily available. Poly would be fine.

 

Roger that^^^^

 

Is it possible to add for some additional caster in the design or can that only be done in the UCA? I just had my alignment done with Total Chaos UCA and I'm having trouble hitting spec. Granted the bed/spare is off currently but it doesn't look like 2 or 3 degrees is in my future.

 

@alphabravo

I thought you just did the new whiteline bushings and new cam bolts in your LCAs?

It seems like 3* of caster should be easy to attain on your setup, assuming your LCA cam bolts are not frozen. FWIW, the Camburg/Total Chaos unibal arms dial in +2* by themselves.

Are you certain the alignment tech tried adjusting from the lower cam bolt adjusters?

 

@Digiratus

Yep. TC UCAs and Whitelines. On of the local guys here works at a dealership and let me watch while he did the alignment. I'm pretty sure he worked all four lower cams plus the tie rod ends.

1. They have an older system and it only let him enter stock size tires (265/65R16 I think). I am running 265/75R16. I'm not sure how this would affect the alignment.

2. ADS coilovers are set at about 0.5" (passenger) to 1" (driver) which translates to about 2" of lift.

3. The only weight I have in the back is the plate bumper. The bed and spare are off. Plus the Deaver Expos all give me a pretty mean rake with prolly over 3.5" of lift. I'm thinking that this is what is killing my caster. If not then I'm not sure why I can't hit spec on caster (about 1.3* or less vs spec at 1.8*).