Strapping / Tie Down Question - complete

Not inexpensive options to buy, but are multipurpose. I’ve been kicking around the idea of using something like this for multiple things. I like that you can create storage while maintaining full use of the bed. I think there are vendors on here other than the two below that make something similar as well.

For your tank I was thinking you could mount it on top of your wheel well to provide a solid footing. Perhaps with a cradle bottom you can make that attaches to the panel. Maybe even just two arms that create a “V” with the MOLLE panel that the tank can wedge in to. Then just run a couple of ratchet straps around it. Probably would not be stable to just strap the tank to the panel without having it somehow contact the wheel well.

Group buy ends today:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ement-system-for-2nd-3rd-gen-dc-or-ac.410254/

Cali Raised:
https://caliraisedled.com/products/2005-2018-toyota-tacoma-bed-molle-system

 

That is because it is heavier then the 6lbs, although not by much. The working pressure on those cylnders is 3442psi or 234bar. A bar is the pressure from the weight of the atmosphere from sea level to space it is equal to 14.7psi/bar. The cylinder size of 130 is approx a 12L cylinder in metric sizing, math is easier in metric size cylinders.

For the 130 cylinderthere would be the following: 12L X 234bar = 2808litres. Air weighs in at about 1.2kg/1000L so that would be 3.36kg of weight when it is full or for you non metric peeps, 7.5lbs. Don't forget to add in the weight of the valve (~4lbs) and the boot (1lb). or roughly 12.5 lbs added to the stated weight of 43lbs . Which is 55.5lbs really probably closer to 60lbs, cylinder manufactures are rarely correct on their weights and physical sizing, shocking really how much discrepancy there is btw them. I use to dive regularly with 5-6 cylinders on me at a time and a rebreather I know my cylinder weights and carrying an additional 350-400lbs up a ladder in 8-10 foot seas is not a fun proposition, those extra few lbs matter when on a dodgy ladder and trying to get out of the water after a 3 hour dive

Seriously though mount the cylinder standing up, this lying down the cylinderis a major nono, especially if you are offroading. There is a reason why TDG states tanks have to be standing and chained so they cannot fall over. Lying them down they can roll around an break the valves off easily or something will bounce into it, the valves are only brass, soft/mild metal, you can snap em off with a hammer, have done it myself on an empty cylinder.

SIDENOTE if you have a certain amount of compressed gas (goes by volume) you have to follow TDG regulations, although rarely enforced, I have had to present my TDG permit to ferry people a few times and go through the contents and how they were stored/volumes/contents/etc due to the sheer number of cylinders we had on the truck.

 

Thanks. Those are some nice solutions, but much more than I need at this time. What I am really digging are these:



Toward the aft end of the wheel well would be perfect since I have D rings on the bed bolts. Those are going to be large holes though. Maybe down the road.

 

Thanks. You have no idea how much I would like it if we were all metric. In backwoods Pennsylvania, we only used SI in school. In college, they made us do half and half since about half of the industry had converted. There, I was still able to think in metric. The companies that I have worked for are still almost 100% SAE.

The 49.0lb weight was the bare bottle with a bottom boot and yoke adapter after the valve. The regulator was not on it when I weighed it.

I am curious to weigh it empty. The dive shop gets a bit annoyed when I bring it in empty since they have to fill the steel ones slowly due to slower heat dissipation.

Sorry, but no matter where is it stored, it will be on its side until I get a canopy or hopefully a GFC. A more secure fixture was most of the reason for this thread. The only thing in my bed other than the tank would be a shovel that is tied off to a D ring on the opposite side.

I've been on ferries with this single tank and have had zero problems. I do agree that if I was carrying multiple tanks and traveling with them more than a few times per year, I would get a more serious solution.

Just for info, there is a large sticker on it that declares that it is not used for diving purposes.

 

Yeah those are awesome. I think those are included in the group buy link, but still too rich for my requirements right now too.

 

Yeah. Except for my tank problem, I am in solid shape with tie down and load carrying with some 2x8s that I cut for the notches in the bed.

 

Maybe the accessory “D” rings?

 

Good idea. Maybe with a larger backing plate? I'd be better than a 2in hole in the bed.

I am going to try the 2x6 strapped to the D rings and quick fists as a first shot. I know that will keep it from sliding. I am just not sure about rotating / flopping. I can also scarf outriggers on to the 2x6

I also have a rubber chock that can be a good wedge along with the unused closed cell tank cradles.

I may grab more of this: Pics of the kludge to come.

 

That's 120 cubic feet compressed into one cylinder, or two with doubles.

 

That's one 7.25in dia x 28in tall, 3,500psi MF'er.

Current setup:

Hahahaha! Flaming bananas! Need acetylene.

 

Quick Fits ordered!

 

Eek, get that thing out of the cab of the truck that even worse then stowing it on it sides in the back. you get in a roll over accident, that is a heck of a lot of weight rolling around in the cab.

Good work on ordering the quick fists, step in the right direction, although I would prefer to see you use a proper ratchet strap instead of those. That is a big tank to have held in place by those rubber quick fists.

 

This is why I like you folks.

I could add a strap there. I also thought about calculating the bottle that I would need just to get my four tires from 20 to 35 PSI. But then, that leads me to thinking about AoB someday. I have the tank from paintball and for shop air with a refill card and it is wicked small and convenient comparatively.

My easy plan is, if it works with the Quick Fists, I will also strap it and get a long air hose so that I can use the tank without pulling it out.

 

You might be able to use a piece of chain between existing tiedowns to hook to.

 

If your looking for long air hoses you can get custom scuba hoses made with the proper fittings on them or a quick connect. Think dive right in scuba makes them, can;t recall anymore though.

 

The dive shop sold me an old 1st stage reg freshly refurbed and set to a lovely 130psi. They also hooked me up with a couple high quality fittings to get the threads to 1/4NPT (you can kind of see it in the pic). So, I just used standard pneumatic attachments.

They did have the fittings and accessories that work with BCs, but I wanted the standard stuff until I go for a dive cert down the road.

I like the coiled hard line for most things, but I have been wanting a long flex hose from HF for a while now. I just needed an excuse and the obligatory coupon. Haha!

In the end, it is sort of an expensive solution for shop air, but the compactness is perfect for our tight garage. Besides, the tank was given to me because it was due for a hydro test.

 

Thanks. Good idea, but the Quick Fists are due here on Sunday, sunday, SUNDAY! We'll see how they work.

 

Epic!