Stripped Hex Head on Transmission Fluid Check Plug

Or just be like me and upgrade the whole pan, lol.

 

I’d love to know the engineering logic behind the two different plug heads. My overflow plug is in great shape but the hex still gets stuck inside it every time reinstall it. Way too little surface area between the plug and the tool. Just don’t understand the decision by Toyota.

 

No one seems to understand this. It's been going on forever (my '98 4Runner had the same issue). I've heard Toyota techs complain bitterly about it as well, so obviously the engineering gurus (you know, the ones who are supposed to be adhering to Kaizen) aren't listening to the techs in the dealerships or the owners on Tacoma forums around the world. Either that, or they're just too darn lazy to change the part #s to something that would work better. If someone on here knows a Toyota engineer, invite him over to help you change your front diff oil next time.

 

Diff? Or transmission?

 

front diff

but same issue on trans as well

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/front-diff-drain-plug-alternate-oem-part.604989/

 

I just did both diffs and I'd already
forgotten the front had hex bit plugs. Think I blacked out after knocking all the skin off my knuckles.

 

Ooooooommmmmmmmm

 

On my old 4Runner I changed them after my first go round. Hard to get into your happy place when someone mentions Toyota front diff plugs

 

The worst part was, if you're not jacked up or lifted, it's very hard to turn a torque wrench far enough to get a click, where those plugs are located. I needed a wobble bit, which means the torque value is out to lunch anyway.

 

I believe it has to do with admitting you were wrong on your specs and no one wants to admit that. It must have to do with liability.
I've seen something like this with a VW TDI cam gear to cam bolt torque. When doing a timing belt change, if you torqued it to VWs torque spec the assembly may loosen up, and then you may need a rebuilt head. If you torqued it to the bolt and assembly capability, you were alright. VW didn't change the torque spec until the next engine cam upgrade. It was a well-known issue on the old VW TDI forum. I believe VWs repair manual spec was 35 lb-ft and the bolt and assembly could handle 74 lb-ft. You could tell something wasn't right when you took it apart.

 

I suspect you may be on to something. I think all car companies are guilty of this; not updating or fixing issues as they come up, unless they're safety related, and just waiting for the updated fix to come up in the next product cycle.

 

I came across a fair number of stripped or mutilated fasteners over the years.
There is a company called Vampire Tools that specializes in tools to remove them.
I ended up with the whole line after I found how well they worked. Saved me lots of time and more importantly frustration.

 

Yup. Definitely good to have in the arsenal of extractors.

 

You guys are life savers haha. I just changed the tranny fluid this past weekend on my taco, and sure enough, I put my 5mm hex in there and turned it, being as gentle as I could, and of course it stripped like many people said it would. It must've been aluminum, since it rounded off so easily. I think they should have just used a hex there instead honestly. Ended up getting a flanged m10x1.5 bolt from AAP, threw on a crush washer, and used it as my tranny drain plug since it was a little longer. I'd say it works, and I did what I could since I wanted to get it done and didn't want to have to wait for the dealer to get it in. Then used the old drain plug as the check plug. Works for me I guess!

Also, removing it was easy, just take a torx bit about the same size as or a little bit bigger than the hex, then hit the sucker in, put a ratchet on it, and watch the plug come out like nothing . Honestly surprised it rounded, since it wasn't even that tight... Bad choice on Toyota's part I guess...