Stripped oil drain bolt, what are my options?

I'd just replace it, and chock it up as a learning lesson. You'll probably never do it again. You usually learn early on that resistance when putting in a bolt is bad. After that first cross thread, you proceed with more caution. Sucks your's happen to be the drain plug, but better then being a spark plug or something harder to get to.

 

Fumoto valve after the repair, or replacement.

 

So I removed all the bolts on the pan, but I can't seem to separate it from the upper assembly. The sealant material cemented it on pretty good. I tried the rubber mallet and prying, but no movement. The lip of the pan would bend from the prying, but won't dislodge.

Any tips?

Taking another beer break now.

 

hit it harder!

If your replacing the pan no need to worry about damaging it.

Just dont damage the machined surface of the engine block that its mounted to

 

So simple put the bolts back in the pan if you haven't bent or broken it loose yet, Go to parts store buy oversize self taping drain plug $3 install in pan done.

 

Wouldn't this still create metal shavings that stay in the pan?

 

If your concerned about shavings put some grease on threads when you thread it in the first time put it in just far enough to rethread then remove wipe of grease and install if a shaving should get in it will just lay in the pan and not make it through the pick up screen. I have used this method many times with no issues.

 

The self tappers are using what is left of the existing threads. They form the new thread instead of cutting them. That is why you have to get the correct thread pitch when you buy the self tapper. There will be nothing to harm your engine. Even if you used a tap to recut the threads there is a screen over the end of the pickup on the pump and nothing as large as a shaving could get through.

The self tapper is the new bolt and you will need to be careful not to over tighten it. They go in tight all the way at first so you need to have a good feel or use a torque wrench so as not to over torque. They make 1st, 2nd, and I think 3rd oversize self tappers depending on how bad the original thread is stripped. Start with the 1st and if that works fine. If not go to second.

 

X2.... They sell em single oversized or double....

 

1 - weld a nut over the old hole and use a corresponding bolt as your new drain bolt.
2 - weld the drain hole shut. Use the BMW siphoning method for future oil changes through your dipstick tube.
3 - Get the bolt in as best you can and bring your truck to an oil change shop and blame it on them.
4 - use a large rare earth magnet as your new drain plug. Those things are strong.

Good luck and enjoy the sarcasm/

 

Well, with a friend's help, the pan finally gave way and separated from the block. Took some careful prying and hammering to break the seal. I took some pictures just for the heck of it.


The old pan with the bolts removed.


Old pan removed. Sealant residue left over on the mounting surface.


Mounting surface cleaned up with a razor blade and some sand paper work. Took about an hour.


New oil pan.


New oil pan with the sealant applied and ready to be installed.

Pan bolted up nicely, lightly torqued down all the bolts to about 8-10 ft lbs. Waited a few hours, filled up with oil, been driving around all day and no leaks. I'm chalking this up as a new lesson. It was one expensive oil change New pan, sealant, bolt cost about $100. 12 qts of Amsoil cost about $100. So $200 and a day of work just for fresh oil in the block.

By the way, not really sure how you guys can drill/tap/insert the oil pan. It's just a thin welded sleeve with not a lot of meat left for anything else to chew into.

 

Thanks for the pics. I'm sure they may provide someone with the means to do this job should the need arise. Sorry it happened to you but lesson learned and no real harm done. Except being a little lighter in the wallet. Most lessons worth learning aren't free anyways.

 

Exactly what I said... Lol.

 

Holy sh*t OP !!!, you removed the transmission pan.

 

Get a lift now since it's gonna take you 20 oil changes to break even

 

What kind of lift is that?

 

A basic midrise scissor lift, makes life a lot more civilized in the garage.

 

Not to thread jack, but thanks for the pics! For the guys thinking those Fumoto valves stick out to far into the pan and don't allow particles to drain out, it looks like they can't anyway.

 

Actually, there's a notch or slot on that sleeve to allow for some side passage into the hole. I do see the concern about the Fumoto valve though. It does seem to block that passage.