Stripped oil pan drain plug

FWIW the lower oil pan is less than a hundred dollars online and should take less then an hour to swap out. Easily doable in a drive way.

 

Where do you live ? I'm in NJ just wanted to compare $$ - I had mine done - have to check but paid more - Thanks.

 

I've accidentally stripped an oil pan before ..
Grabbed my tap and die set, rethreaded with the next size up, cleaned the threads with a magnet, put a bolt and washer in and never had any problems. Takes 5 minutes and is free if you have the right tap and bolt

 

This just happened to me yesterday. Just like the OP (it’ll tighten then loosen, tighten then loosen), but when I pulled mine out, it came with a spring attached to the bolt (I wish I took a picture of it). It was a threaded one piece in between the threads of the bolt. The bolt was fine. It looked like those springs you get in a pen when you take it apart but a fat one. I was able to put it back in but obviously not tight and put the old oil back in just to move the truck to the street where it is until I get a replacement. But I'm not sure if I should buy the whole setup (Pan, gasket, bolt)
Do you guys have any idea where that piece of thread might be from? Can the pan thread be broken off like that in one piece? Appreciate the help guys.

 

My guess is that your oil drain plug had previously been stripped and repaired with a helicoil. The helicoil is the "spring" thing that came out with your drain plug.

 

Assuming it’s a 4.0.. Get a lower oil pan with gasket and drain plug.. should be a simple diy in your drive way

 

Yes, that's what came out. But it's weird because I did the previous oil change and everything was normal that I didn't even noticed anything strange. The oil change prior to my last one was an engine swap and I told the mechanic to use my old pan because the pan of the replacement engine was dented. My old engine had 198k miles and new used engine had 52k miles.
should I buy another "helicoil" or replace the oil pan altogether? I'm guessing the oil pan threads are stripped since the plug looked normal. Thanks!

 

It is a 4.0
What do you mean by a "lower" oil pan? I was thinking of getting everything (oil pan, gasket and plug). Thanks!

 

Here’s a link to some more info
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/replacing-oil-pan.289616/

The tacoma has a two piece oil pan.. the lower is the sheet metal pan that your drain plug goes into.. it bolts to the upper oil pan which is aluminum and would be more labor intensive to replace.

 

What you described is the bolt trying to grab and missing over and over again when it starts to thread. Usually means the first couple thread pitches are messed up, but the rest are probably fine. Get a tap and die kit and use it to clean up the threads. That'll more than likely fix it.

Didn't see the part about the helicoil. You might need to rethread to a larger size then. And if that fails, then the new oil pan.

Afterwards, get a fumoto valve, put some hi temp thread locker on it and call it a day (don't use teflon tape! You don't want those little stringy bits melting off and getting into your oil...). Never have that probably ever again.

 

That is a very helpful thread. Now I know these trucks have two oil pans. Thank you!!!

 

I'm just going to go with a new pan, gasket and plug. I can't have my truck sit out again if that doesn't fix the problem. I will get the fumoto valve too. Thanks for the help!

 

One last question, do I need some type of sealant/silicone to add to the new gasket? or just gasket alone?
Thanks

 

Form in place gasket FIPG as Toyota Calls it.

 

Placed my order today for Pan, FIPG, and Fumoto Oil Drain Valve. Thanks for all your help

 

Just note the difference in torque values for the bolts and nuts.

Bolts are 80 in lbs and Nuts are 7.4 ft lbs.

 

Had this happen to me back when I had about 80k on it. Lower oil pan is very thin and only a couple threads thick for the bolt to grab. Ended up replacing the lower pan ($64 like 8 years ago) and going with a fumoto drain valve. While the job of replacing the lower pan is technically easy, it does take some time to really clean off and prep the mounting surface to get a good seal with the CIPG. My first attempt resulted in a leak and I had to redo it. Of course the second time around I also had to clean and prep the lower oil pan which now had CIPG stuck to it. I spent a lot of time on the second prep. Also was very careful to not move the pan at all during bolt up so as to not disturb the CIPG. Now at 209k and no issues.

 

Just got done replacing the pan but I forgot to ask how long do I wait until it’s safe to put oil in?
Thanks again

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivVZa42B4wc

 

I never see Helicoil kits for external threads... always internal. Limits of the current technology?