Stripped transfer case threads - repairable?

When the thread is wet it will spin even at the correct torque. It's referred to as wet torque

 

Teflon tape is a good idea if its alright to have the risk of a bit of teflon inside what ever your bolting too. I usually recommend it on fluid filled systems but I dont think its necessary here and might cause issues if not done conservatively.

 

If you can tap it one size larger as a temporary. Order a new case and transfer everything over. This depends on how to get new case and length of daily round trip to work. Might be a weekend project. Maybe use a crush washer to help seal it. Just my $.02. good luck
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Getting a new case seems pretty extreme.

Try the heli coil

 

This is one of the dumbest ideas so far

 

Jb weld the drain plug so he can NEVER change the oil again....how is that not dumb ?

 

For the time being, I'd use sealant on the plug or even Teflon tape. It just doesn't have to leak. Then when you have more time, fix it. They do make oversize drain plugs just for stripped threads on oil pans. Check if they have them in the size for the case.

 

This idea offends the purest in me. However, depending on how old the truck is I see some beauty in its brutal efficiency. You could always get the the “glued” drain plug out with a torch.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=13&v=cdAvBAJaBwQ

 

Op, you are being way too hard on yourself. Take a big step backward and relax. All of us, and I mean all, who have done regular mechanical work have made huge mistakes. I once left a rag inside an engine while doing a timing chain and it got sucked into the oil pickup screen clogging it shut to the flow of oil and rapidly ruined the engine. To this day the neighbors still quickly move their kids inside if I'm in the garage for fear of them expanding their vocabulary.......

Anyway, unless there is another reason to pull the transfer case leave it alone. Since you have not done any thread repair I would not particularly want to learn on this one but locate someone who can. Call around. It should not be that expensive and it is not hard. I suspect you may be able to replace the drain plug and get it to stay put for awhile by wrapping with teflon tape. Then replace with cheap gear oil.

 

Yeah, I’m a mechanic by profession now, but years ago I learned about what “wet torque” is by doing the same thing, on an oil pan though. Now, since I do this stuff all the time I’ve learned to keep a cool head, everything can be fixed in one way or another. Don’t be too hard on yourself.

 

I had an aircraft engine fail because somebody left a wrench inside it

 

Somebody left a wrench inside the blower section and resealed it and it got jammed in an intake valve. Plane made it about 20 feet off the ground then hit like a brick.

 

This is what I would do if it was my only ride and I had to get it driveable asap. I carry a collection of those in my emergency tool kit. I have seen them work for years in my non mechanically concerned and lazy friend's cars. The tcase isnt pressurized so it will be fine.

A repair option is to call your local dirtbike shop and see if they repair side case covers, if so then ask if they would be willing to weld up a tcase cover. Will be cheaper than a machine shop and likely faster.

 

Picked up a HH-60j fresh out of overhaul in Elizabeth City, headed to Alaska. In flight shut down of #2 engine over Tennessee. Upon disassembly, found a mini maglight smashed against the burn cans with the letters ECQA (quality assurance) engraved in it.....

 

Go to an old time hardware store or plumbing supply house and ask the oldest guy there for "wicking". They used that for packing on water valve stems and such. Its a thin cotton string with many strands. You wrap a few STRANDS neatly into the threads on the plug and put it back in and snug it up. I'll bet it holds without leaking. An old mechanic showed me that for my '70 CJ5 transfer case and it never leaked/dripped again.

 

You have zero downside to trying to helicoil it.

If you F' it up and it's not square and leaks, then you're no worse off than you are at present and you can try to get it welded or replace the case.

If you HeliCoil it, see if you can find a drain plug with a good rubber washer or O-ring seal and don't over torque it. I *HIGHLY* recommend coating the threads on the new drain plug with the drain plug "sealer" they sell at AutoZone, etc (it is usually available in little tear-open packages at the register). That stuff works.

Then fill the case w/synthetic and call it good for 100k miles.

JL

 

My name is Clay and I approve this message

 

Tapped it today - only significant concern is whether i managed to flush all the shavings out. more ended up in the case than anticipated, flushed it out as best i could with two cans of carb cleaner.

filled it up today, will check for leaks tomorrow and let you guys know how it went. thanks for all the advice!

 

Well, if it makes you feel any better, the shavings are aluminum vs hardened steel gears and bearings.....so it will probably be fine.