Stripped wheel bolt/lug nut

If you had a buddy that could help.
You could do as @EatSleepTacos said.

Remove the other lugs.
Turn the wheel until the stripped lug is at 12o’clock.
Have your buddy pull on the wheel at the 6 o’clock position. (or get under the truck and push with your feet)
This might wedge the lug tight, and help the striped lug back off.

 

This idea of using the force of the pushed wheel to get the lug nut to bite is good medicine. Great idea.

 

I have a good feeling the knurl (spline) where the stud presses into the hub is stripped so now the whole stud is loose and spinning on the hub.

That is a tricky situation.

 

Can you add one or two *small* spot welds to stud & hub?

Another option is to use a propane torch to heat the stud, to wedge-fit it, and perhaps keep it from spinning as you unbolt the lug.

 

Have you got the factory lug nuts? If so, if pull the cap off and drill it out enough to where you can put the socket on with an extension and break it off.

Sharp drills, lube, and most important to make a pain in the ass job from turning into a suck job... There's a fine line between drill speed and pressure where the drill is cutting butter. Start slow and find that sweet spot. Start at like 3/16 and work up.

Good luck!

 

i really dont think this is the situation. I'm 95% certain that the threads of the stud/lug nut are stripped at the nut's current position (almost all the way tightened). The lug nut itself wiggles/rotates around on the stud and if I pull the nut forward I can feel when it touches the next threads, but since its threads are trashed, it doesnt catch.

Because the lug nut is basically in its final tightened position , the is not much room for the wheel to move to exert leverage on the stud to break it.

DT not answering phone today, which makes me think they were open yesterday they just don't answer the phone. Guess I'll just show up today and go from there.

 

Get a BFF, vice grips, BFH (big F'ing hammer) and sharp cold chisel. Give BFF beer and vice grips, have him hold tension on the nut so it doesn't spin And start wailing on the flat of the nut with the chisel. There is a chance you'll snap of the stud off, no big deal, takes 5 minutes to replace and you have to do that anyway. Crack the lug nut, jam a screwdriver in and peel it off. Join buddy with beer. Alternatively, you can try and cut the nut with a Dremel tool very carefully. Either way you're replacing the wheel stud because of the stripped threads. Replacing a wheel stud is not a hairy deal. Rotate the rotor to the provided relief cut, pound the old one out, bring the new one in by drawing it tight with a lug nut and a big nut for that lug nut to pull on. There are a number of good threads showing the procedure, and a bunch of YouTube videos out there.

 

I think if you take it back to DT, you run the risk of them jacking up your wheels finish. So take pics before so you can have them cover the cost of replacing your wheel once they ruin it.
If you have to tackle this by yourself, if you can get to the back to the wheel stud heads, you can grind/cut off the problematic one and punch it through and replace. That way you don't have to worry about getting the lug nut off inside the hole and damaging your wheel. Then just press in a new stud.