Stuck at autozone battery issues

Alternator is bad, truck is junk, time to fire sale it and get a '17!
Yes that is a valid quick test. All your battery is for is to start the engine and stabilize the electrical system, the alternator takes over after the engine is running.
BTW when the battery light is coming on that means take care of it now, not after you get stranded.

 

I don't know the price
I was asking you

Yeah being stranded is no fun
And once stranded price doesn't matter

Good luck

 

Paid for both or paid for both, each?

 

.. two times for $175 or two times for $175 each time?

 

Yes sir rodssol i learn this one the hardway . i like my 01 taco btw.

 

So 175 is a average price for denso made . feeling much better on the price .

 

That's Mr. Robssol

 

My bad robssol .

 

I've been told that on most modern cars this is bad. Is that true? Just curious about that. I've done it, but it was on a super old Ranger.

 

What is bad?

 

Starting the engine, disconnecting the battery, then seeing if it dies. If it does, means the alternator isn't providing sufficient power.

Supposedly though, doing this messes with the voltage regulators or something in modern cars? I don't actually know for sure, because like I said, the only truck we ever did this on was my buddy's old beater Ford Ranger.

 

Never heard that myself. But could be.

 

Ill post the finish fix went i get it done hopefully tomorrow . thanks for ur responses TW members .

 

They say the battery stabilizes the voltage. Without it there can be voltage spikes that can damage the electronics on newer cars. On old cars it didn't matter.

In the future just check the voltage at the battery with and without the engine running. If the alternator is good it should be close to 14 volts with accessories off and stay at or above 13 volts with blower motor, headlights and other things on. If it's dipping below 12.6 volts then your battery will start discharging. For more sophisticated testing take it to the parts store for a check.

If you really want to save money, you can disassemble the alternator and replace the bad parts. Usually it's just the brushes (<$20) or the rectifier ($50-70). Or get a used alternator and check parts before installing. I wouldn't blame anyone for just getting a new one if they don't mind spending the money or don't have the time to rebuild it.

 

No penalty for trying to rebuild it yourself. Most difficult part would be taking it out. Usually it's just brushes. I would replace, brushes, regulator, and diode trio, maybe bearings if they feel even slightly iffy.

 

A failing battery can take out the alternator,,and vice versa. Especially with alot of miles/years on both.

Alternator check is easy. Check standing voltage on the battery leads with a multitester set at 20V DC,,leave it connected to the battery and start the truck then. Voltage should jump up on the meter when running.

Had a napa rebuilt alt that would charge for 10 min,,then quit charging for the rest of the drive and drain the battery. Took many hours to run that problem down. Flung a few wrenches across the shop over that one.

 

So shopping around for an alternator found a place that would reman mine . is this a good option ?

Gonna call them and get all the inf price ,warranty , etc etc .

 

All done new alternator and battery back on the road again ...