Stuck bolt help?

Hmm. Never heard of Kroil. Can I find that at o'Reilly or NAPA?

Also, I doubt I can get a pipe wrench on it @Littlemule1, but Ill see if it grips.

 

I had the same issue... I welded a nut on top if it and used a breaker bar

pipe wrench wont grab it, I tried on mine

 

My frame is so covered in fluid film mine will probably come out by hand.

 

This is the best penetrating oil you can get: https://www.kimballmidwest.com/80740/ Kroil is also good and easier to get most places

 

Kroil is available through Amazon. I have used it for rusted or seized engine parts, after I saw a friend use it on a motorcycle restoration. He poured some onto each piston that had seized in place within the cylinder head. Let the oil covered pistons set for a week - and took a rubber mallet with a couple of hits, and the pistons freed up, and moved enough that he could disassemble the cylinder head.
Kroil works best when you give it time to seep into the rusted or seized parts - not sure how much time it would take for the bed bolts in your truck.
Good Luck!

 

Sorry about the double-tap on the picture.

 

I had the same exact problem when I did my bed stiffener install. After trying both PB Blaster & WD-40 I resorted to a heat gun and it came right out! Just be careful you don't melt anything while trying to heat up the bolt. I used a heat shield to try and focus the heat onto the bolt as much as possible.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...e-downs-in-stock.476123/page-96#post-19564310

 

Ok, I will give my soldering gun a try. I was using a mini torch & MAP gas before & it was starting to melt plastic. I tried from below as well.
I do have a heat gun, but that seens like it would be less focused on target & probably melt my liner.

 

Inner webs say liquid wrench is best (or at least this guy)

https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs

 

I had issues on my front bed bolts when i was trying to add "D" rings to it one time.. lucky for me i can access those threads from under the truck, so i torch the living hell out of them and then quickly use the impact to remove.

 

Homemade 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission oil was tested as the best penetrating oil followed by kroil oil and liquid wrench. Much easier and cheaper to buy the mix. Unfortunately, there's a likelihood that no oil is able to penetrate past the bolt head down to the threads where it's really needed. Not sure if you can apply the oil from under the bed. Worst case scenario is cut off the head, hopefully able to remove the rest of the bed screws to elevate the whole bed to soak the threads of the broken bolt to remove.

 

Can you see the nuts of the bolt and use an induction heater to heat it up? Induction heaters kick arse in situations where you have a stuck nut that you can see.

Don't know where you are at but I have one and it'll turn a nut red hot quick without a bit of heat elsewhere.

Induction heaters are really a pretty cool thing.

 

Another option is use a dremel to cut off 2 sides of the bolt head to square it off to fit a wrench. That may give the penetrating oil greater chance to soak down to the threads. Then try a large adjustable wrench to remove the bolt.

 

Another thought is to try drilling a hole in the washer as close to the bolt head as possible. Maybe even through the bolt head skirt if you can.

Pour / blast your penetrating oil into that hole. You will be filling that “well” up with oil and hopefully getting it down to the threads.

If that bolt shaft is corroded, it will snap off if you get after it with a breaker and cheater. Murphy’s Law states it’ll break off flush with bottom of the well making removal even more fun.

Can you access the frame nut for that bolt if you remove the rear bumper and /or drop the spare? Removing the rear bumper isn’t that difficult and getting to that nut will be important if you break the bolt.

Might as well buy a new bed bolt from the dealership now.

 

Easy to clean up.

1. Hit edit near the bottom of the post
2. Delete one of the two lines bracketed by
3. Hit save.

Add me to the pro-Kroil club!

 

Heating the bolt is not what you want you want to heat the nut to make it expand more.

 

@T-Dozzer
This mix really does not get as much attention as it should. Try it on the threads underneath the bed, repeatedly, and then go to Harbor Freight and get the biggest set of Chinese vice grips that you can, like this or even larger , and tightly put on the head perpendicular to the bolt with the idea you will be wasting the bolt anyway. The pipe wrench noted above may also work well. If you add leverage clear the path or add shielding to nearby objects and by all means minimize the swearing.

 

x2. I would suggest demel the sides of the bolt head to square it off to have a flat surface for vice grips or any wrench to grip onto.

 

what about a hand impact driver

 

those Torx bit screws on these rust buckets really suck, I don't know why the hell they started using them everyone ive tried to get unscrewed chances are they get stripped out