Stuck in 4Hi need to get back to 2WD

yes! i wish my Tacoma was a simple as my 90 Toyota, here that "clang" noise when everything locks up and that is time to go!

 

So, question, if I take the cover off the transfer case actuator and manually push the shift rod into the 2WD position will this put my truck back into 2WD? At least then I can drive the truck normally until I can diagnose the issue and fix it.

 

You can remove the cover and rotate the gear as far counterclockwise as it will go, that will put the transfer case in 2wd. Your ADD may still be locked in but the truck should be in 2wd.
While your there check out the contacts, it may just need to be cleaned up.

 

Yea, going into 4Hi -> 4Lo -> 4Hi is no problem, also the rear diff locker works in 4Lo like it should too.

 

Recommended you remove the limit switches, push them in and out and then spray them with electrical connectors cleaner. Fixed it once for me.

 

How far did you drive around in 4wd after switching it back to 2wd. Sometimes it can take a minute to disengage. Have you tried reversing in a straight line for a minute or so?

 

Update: Traced the problem to a bad transfer case actuator. Pulled it apart and used a pry bar to push the shift rod into 2WD, put the case back together and when I turned the key on position the ADD was then able to disengage the front diff. So, back in 2WD, I have a new OEM transfer case actuator I am going to install around the end of the shift rod so I don't have to split the transfer case open.

 

It’s good you figured out what one was not switch back to 2H. But let’s just hope it was actually the actuator and not a ground issue outside the actuator.

That’s why @Dm93 was so persistent on checking the voltages. We seen it not be actuators. It’s been ground issues outside the actuator. Not often, but it happens.

 

I'm guessing it had crud in it from the disconnected vent hose?

The majority of people change them that way to avoid taking the transfer case apart just note the timing of the gear because if it isn't correct it will not work properly.

Yea but it's highly unlikely a ground problem would inadvertently be fixed by taking the actuator apart, it's more likely the contacts inside had some crud on them and cleaning them up fixed it.

 

Most likely it was the actuator.
But testing is “free” and replacing parts isn’t.
Plus I hate working on vehicles, sticking a probe in a few terminals is easier than crawling under the truck.

 

Yeah, that's what's weird the inside of the actuator wasn't dirty. Unfortunately, the blinking light on the dash is still there even though the front diff is disengaged, the transfer case is in 2H, and the truck is 100% not in 4WD anymore. Hopefully that goes away when I put the new actuator on the transfer case.

 

So we still don't really know where the problem lies, still just a guess that it's the Transfer Case Actuator.

 

I ran all the voltages and they are all good, even brought the truck to a dealer I've bought 5 cars from and had their tech run a diagnostic and he came back with the same verdict, bad transfer case actuator. I am going to install a new one I ordered and see if that works before doing anything else.

My main question now is, I forced the truck in 2wd from the T case and when I did that the ADD was then able to disengage the front diff. When I install the new T case actuator should I put it all back the way it was when it was "broken so the 4wd ECU is starting from the position it left in or can I install it and the ecu will work out the position and be good?

 

It's best you put it on in the position the selector switch is but it should move to where it belongs.

The main thing is the drive gear must be timed to the transfer case correctly or it will not work properly.