Stuck Oil Filter Housing

If the metal one gets overtightened its not coming off without a fight either

 

I was agreeing with you
"Go yell at the last place that changed the oil"

 

Is it $35 better than the AST? Kinda pricey but looks decent.

 

I just use the cheapy from Autozone with no issues on stuck ones, no need for overkill.
Has the slots for the cannister tabs and a hex for a large socket plus the 1/2 drive
Nothing wrong with the alum alloy ones either, plenty strong enough. The good ones are forged.
Personally, I prefer the slotted wrenches.

https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-g...qC2x3nK_RXqWxn4GDR0aAvh7EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I love tool porn. I have a motivX it fits my 2021 TRDOR and my 2023 Rav4 Prime regular oil filter.

 

Even if the plastic housing clamps a bit more due to heat cycles, 18ft-lbs won't magically become 60+.

I have a cheepie tool like OP and have never done dealer changes and have 0 issues removing the housing, no damage. But when you just use the old arm torque wrench or an impact like lube "techs" do, you end up like OP and others. Lots of models and manufacturers use a plastic housing like that without long term issues.

 

I use this at work. I'm a Lexus tech. Hasn't slipped once.

$30 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota Camry, Tundra, Tacoma, 4Runner, RAV4 and More - 64mm 14 Flute Precision CNC Machined Aluminum Oil Filter Removal Tool

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XTAGHU0?ie=UTF8

 

Life’s too short to use cheap tools…….its a darn nice piece. No jacks needed with the MotivX tool

 

Feel your pain:
- #1, good on you for doing your own PM
- Over the years I have been consistently let down by the stamped steel ones (+1 buy a nice tool)
- I would say, EXTENDED O&F changes don't help situation any; speculating housing comes off easier at 6 months versus 12
- About the 10th change the "Ears" on mine snapped off (Bad timing, I should have had a back-up ready, even with overnight it still took ~ 48hrs to get a replacement from the dealer and Amazon (Yeah, I ended up with 3, due to scheduling commitments, could not take a chance)... Currently using the OEM Lexus alloy version with a plastic OEM as back-up
- I am real careful with the o-ring, pre-lube, torque etc. But always seems to be harder than it should be. I've found a nice alloy adaptor with a 27mm long impact and big ass 1/2" breaker bar works best for removal (Slow and steady build up of torque)
- I've got a spare (Unbranded) Amazon housing if you want it, missed the return window, you cover the shipping and its yours

 

These canisters do not have to be very tight at all. Once the o-ring is sandwiched up between the housing and block it's not going to leak. Gently bottom it out where it stops and leave it alone.

If you need anything more than a 3/8 rachet to loosen you're tightening too much. Forget about the torque spec, you don't need to go ham on these things. It's not going to magically un-thread itself

A spin-on filter is a different situation, the seal at the bottom can shrink with age allowing it to loosen up and back off. The design of the canister type is superior because it doesn't depend on final torque to achieve a good seal.

 

I use this and it works really well, solidly constructed.

 

what is that white debris around the housing? looks like it was put in there then the cap installed over it???

 

Looks like a paper towel to fill up some gaps in his filter wrench.

 

I have been using the motivx without issue but recently picked up the Mac brand and its a beast.

 

The proper tools can make this easier

 

Total waste of money if you put the filter housing on to the correct tightness.

 

I had this issue today with mine. I ended up just driving around to grab lunch real quick and it came right off once the truck was warmed up. Found it weird but made sense as well?

 

doesn't the toy/lex dealers have a toyota tool?

 

Yes. I think we have one or two of them. With 10 techs and the amount of oil changes we do, just better to buy your own.
I haven't even used the Toyota/Lexus tool.

 

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