Stuck Oil Filter Housing

I had the original motivx one with the slots when I changed my oil at 5,000 miles and it worked fine for me. Then I had the 10,000 mile toyota care service done July 2021, when I went to change it myself again at 15,000 miles the next december I couldn't get mine off either. I posted about it then, but due to not having garage space and time to change it when the weather cooperated I never changed the filter till the next and last Toyota at 20,000. I was ready the next time with the new version of the wrench and a 24" breaker bar, 1/2" ratchet set. it came off with only the rachet and the car wrench. I still can't get the flat metal filter drain cap off first. when I try to remove that it was put on so tight at the dealership that it turns the entire filter cap. So then I removed it without being able to use the fancy filter drainer from motivx and spilled oil all over my faux TRD skid plate. once I got it out of the truck I tried to get it off but couldn't get a good enough grip on the plastic after wiping off the oil with a shop rag because there was still a film of oil on it. The dealers all sem to over tighten them to some degree. I had two different dealers do the oil changes under Toyota care first seemed to make it the tightest.

Not sure what to try next time get it open as I just put it back on with a new filter. I guess maybe try cleaning the cap with some brake clean I'll have to pick up and see it I can get the cover off the cap by hand. I don't have a vise and I fear cracking it but I have a metal filter cap on hand in case, it just didn't come with the drain cover thingy.

 

I just had one that was super tight. They are not supposed to be tight at all, just snug.

 

Yep! when I did the first oil change it felt like that's how it was done from the factory. when I do the oil change myself I've only bottomed the cap in the housing made it hand tight then turned then a tiny bit more with a ratchet to be sure its sealed. Nothing like it seems that dealers do. I just got to get the little drain cover off the next time and I'll have all the dealers over torque bs over with.

 

I started doing my own oil and filter after the freebies and I had a very hard time getting the plastic oil filter housing off. I think maybe some of them are catchy because at a certain point mine was stuck just doing it by hand. I tried to re-loosen it after spinning it on and it took quite a bit of effort with a wrench to get it back off after I screwed it on by hand.I bought a new metal filter housing and that problem went away.

 

The alloy cap has much looser fitted threads when compared to the polymer cap. It is remarkably smoother, at least on the installation. Guess I will see how it is to remove in about 5k

 

My father was an auto mechanic so I always did my own maintenance and most repairs. Once I turned 60 I stopped doing oil changes. My time is more valuable than saving a few dollars on an oil change. I have a trusted local independent mechanic that charges about $60 (less when there’s a coupon) for O&F and rotates the tires if you want for no extra charge. Haven’t brought the Taco in yet as it only has 2500 miles on it, but after reading all these comments I’ll be sure to ask him what he uses for removal tools. I’ve seen other Tacos in the shop so he has experience with them.

 

OP so have you removed the cap ? Or no?

 

Would be great to find a wonderful local shop that I can trust.

 

It ain't always about saving a few dollars brother. For many (including me) it's about crawling under a vehicle and getting your hands dirty and drinking a celebratory beer when done. I'm your age too BTW.

 

Im 56
I like to do it myself, I like to take a look around and see what’s going on. I’ve never had anybody change my oil. Bought my first car three days before I turned 15

 

If you don't have a torque wrench or don't want to whip it out each time, here's where the cap and tabs should end up in relation to the metal retainer.

When I did my first change, trying to get the metal drain plug started spinning the housing so these are not tight at all coming out of the factory.

Edit: Those of you who have issues; where are the plastic tabs/ribs compared to the metal retainer?

 

That relocation is cool! What’s the process and what adapters are needed to relocate? Any pics of connection site?

 

Process isn’t difficult. I did it myself. Start here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ilter-oil-change.582655/page-18#post-28324113

You will need to purchase the components from Baxter Performance https://www.baxterperformanceusa.co...k-cartridge-to-remote-adapter-multi-port.html

you will need to also purchase the hose and fittings

 

You replace the filter canister with this.

 

my neighbor across the street was going to do his 18 by himself, 1st time, i told him don't even go there. he got a mobile mechanic to come out and the front two bolts on the skid plate broke off! then the mechanic had a hard time getting the cap off. he was not going to force it until i told him i had a spare. he really had to muscle it but it did not brake. he said sometimes the cap brakes but the threaded part stays and you have to chisel it off. then he put tie wraps on the front of the skid plate to keep it from rattling, good thing the hooks were there to hold it up.

 

Similar story here. Did my own at 5k and I was able to loosen everything with a 3/8 ratchet. Dealer did the 10k and this morning I did the 15k change.

Needed to use a 1/2" breaker bar on the Motivx tool to break it loose. Also needed it to loosen the filter drain cap and oil pan bolt. Can't remember the last time I needed a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor.

 

The Bluepoint on the right, is a upgrade from a Walmart tool. However, always use a six point whenever possible

 

My cap drain plug was cranked on so tight from the factory that I've never been able to remove it. Even tried putting in the bench vise. Bought the motive tool before hand and have never used it on my truck.

My son has been using it to change the wife's oil on her Rav4 as of late. She's been paying him to do it since Mavis put her cap on so tight that when they tried to remove it the next time, it shattered.

 

The everyday story of dealers letting the porters and tech school kids work on your truck. I will pay for a real tech or do it myself, they can keep their free oil changes.

 

Crazy how they won't fix a relay terminal in a fuse box because of "liability" (like the 8,000$ harness thread) but they have no problem letting untrained kids fuck up oil changes on expensive engines all day long

I tell my customers if you hear the word free run the other way as fast as you can