stuck spark plug

hey yall
was changing out plugs and cables, easy peazy, (with a magnetic socket) (on my 97 toy tacoma..4 cyl 2.7 ltr 4wd,) can not get one of them out. ive been trying to get it out for the last two hours. when looking down the block with flashlight i see the top of the plug has bare metal showing and also seems to be loose...what the hell should i do

 

True story.....My Wife's 2007 Rav4, I changed the plugs on the 4 cyl after 6 years (only 32K miles) and all went well except for 1 plug that would not come out. It drove me nutz until I stuck a little Maglite down in and saw a little piece of what snaps on to the plug had broken off from the factory and was stopping the plug from coming out. it was just jammed in there. I finally got that piece out (about the size of a half a dime) and could get the plug out. Look at both the plug hole and what snaps on to the plug to see if anything is missing or down in there.

 

Once you do get the plug out, make sure to dab the threads with anti-sieze for this very reason

 

Denso says no to anti-sieze. I was already familiar with this but didn't want to just spout off without the link:
http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/basic_knowledge/installation/index.html

 

I know NGK says not to use it as well, I imagine ac Delco does and others also. Just haven't looked it up specifically to other plug manufacturers. I can see why you would want to put a dab on there, I stopped doing it after seeing the manufacturers state not to.

 

dielectric grease works good,,if the never seize scares you. Never seize has ultra fine mesh alum dust in the grease complex. Alum is a natural insulator (and self lubricator) so they try to scare you away from that voltage loss. A tiny,tiny pinprick dab down low on the threads if you must. Dielectric is a voltage isolator,,so it concentrates it on that spot of the plug. Good for ALOT of heat and upwards of 15K volts. what I have switched over to and the plugs screw right out.

 

Makes sense, thanks for the heads up.

 

Hmm thanks, I will use this next time.

 

Cool. Also changes the heat range of your plugs to a point, if you use a big loaded swipe of NS on the threads. Less is better. Our team runs a 780" Gene Fulton bbc and we run NGK exclusively,,because they can take it, and that we are pounding them with high amps and 16 volts for the first 30° of low rpm timing. Those plugs get a NS swipe every other set or two (alum head). Even flattened washer plugs can stick horribly if you don't break them free immediately in the pits while still hot (key).

 

I use anti-seize on my plugs. A $5 plug is easier to replace than to repair/replace a $400 head(not including labor) with stripped plug hole threads. Do the right thing, put anti-seize on the plug threads. I don't care what the plug makers say. I will be the one paying for broke shit.

 

Be careful. Last time I saw a plug get stuck in one of these, the guy snapped it off and had to pull the head and send it to machine shop

 

Will the plug run hotter with anti-sieze?