Stuck Spark Plug

You really didn't dodge a bullet, plug wasn't stripped, you experienced a long reach plug that had carbon buildup on the threads, ideally back and forth with some penetrant is the best and safest option. This probably has more to do with your not having a developed feel for this kind of thing yet, you have it now.

Impacting a component like a sparkplug that has a porcelain core is never a good idea. For one thing one guys tap might be another guys wack, what's the right amount of impact for that situation, do you keep hitting it till it comes loose, which hammer is needed? Crack that porcelain and there's a good chance of a piece dropping into the cylinder and now you got big issues since porcelain isn't magnetic. You won't be grabbing it through the sparkplug hole.

 

Plugs are completely a feel game. I never use a hammer or anything but also have rarely had one that gave me any trouble. The Tacoma is pretty friendly to do plugs on so it is a good vehicle to tackle to learn. Probably the worst I have done is an 07 Ford 5.4. Those are a nightmare and best I ever got on those was breaking 2 then using a special tool to remove. My mother in laws 06 SS Trailblazer with a 6.0 was about a 4 hour job as the book says to actually lift the body off the frame or pull the motor. One thing I have found is the right tool for the job goes a long way on doing plugs. An extension that locks to the socket is nice to have for those plugs that are deep in the head and a good set of sockets goes a long way. Not ones where the rubber insert stays on the plug. The magnetic ones are awesome. I got this set from VIM tools and absolutely love them.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VIM-MSPM100 These have a swivel that is spring loaded so it returns to center but will flex when you need it to. Works great and these have the magnetic core like the Snap On plug sockets so they slip on and off the plug but also hold it securely. This is the best set I have found for the price point.

This is a nice locking extension to have for those 4 bangers with the plug 12" deep in the head. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHTEXTL3812

My absolute go to ratchet for doing plugs is the Snap On 3/8 ratchet on the 1/4 frame. Handy little wrench. The one with the red handle in the pic.


Glad you got it done OP, and glad you did not actually have a problem. Good job.

 

Pour a little penitrent (OZ or 2) in the plug well go have lunch come back in a couple hours and see what happens. Your are kind of between a rock and a hard place and no matter what you try may not work worst case it will take the threads with it and you'll have to pay someone to helicoil it.

 

This way you certainly increase the odds of taking threads with you. Steel plugs in an aluminum head and all.

And who likes to work on a hot motor anyway if you don’t have to?

for the guy who said Iridium plugs cause running issues, why would that be? Assuming they’re the correct heat range and not Chinesium counterfeit (it happens!!), they should work just as well as the OEM copper plugs. At least that has been my experience.

 

Do you just wake up and choose violence? LOL... It is just his opinion man. The OP got it done. Everything will be okay. Lot's of ways to skin a cat. Hope you have a great day and justice comes swiftly to whomever hurt you.

 

From what I recall, the bulk of the issues with iridium plugs has to do with folks using the wrong heat range. Otherwise they're fine, except for the cost compared to the OEM coppers.

 

I insert my plugs dry, pulled out fine after 50k, 100k, 200k for re gap and 220k when I replaced them

 

I added anti seize to two plugs because the threads in the head seemed to be a little corroded and they were scraping off the silver sacrificial coating.

 

LOL
You guys are always entertaining.

Just read through one of the copper vs iridium threads, sounds like it is a toss up, unless you go by the book.
I'll keep the iridium plugs in for now and re-evaluate after checking the mpg a few months down the road.
As I also changed the oil last week, it appears that I am now a qualified Taco mechanic. Woohoo!! (thanks b_r_o)

Now on to replacing the shocks, sticking with the Bilstein 4600's. Hopefully you don't see me start a new thread in the suspension forum.

 

4600 are trash, go 5100 minimum

 

As someone who spends a decent amount of time in Eastern Oretucky bushwacking, I would also recommend getting the 5100's over the 4600's. It'll give you a little more leeway for a small lift (less than 2") down the road if you decide to go that way.

 

Glad to see you got them off. Nothing like that feeling when the plug clears the last thread.

I, too, used to see migrants running across I5, 805 and 905. Funny how they stopped putting up the signs because people kept stealing them.

I’m not too far from you in Lakeside. If you need tools or help with something in your Taco, feel free to look me up here. If you need a professional mechanic, contact this thread starter:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/san-diego-bs-thread.124945/

And iridium plugs are fine. I put that shit on everything. I’ve had them on mine since 50K. Just don't leave them in too long. My first set I replaced at 110K or so and the gaps were pretty wide. My second set, I will replace at about 80K. But, I still have my original coils.

 

4600 is the same size as 5100 except it lacks the multiple snap ring grooves.

The OEM TRD shocks are thinner than 4600s. The OEM shocks are more like "3500" if such a model existed.

 

This thread had nearly everything I look for in a quality TW thread. Thanks everyone