Stuttering Starter?

Yesterday as I was getting into my truck, I turned the key to start the engine.

But instead of starting normally, it the starter stuttered, very short stutter, not long and drawn out. It sounded like it was sputtering, as if water got down its trachea and it was trying to cough it up at rapid intervals.

I cranked it a second time; it delayed a little bit, then started. I drove it home and tested the starter again - it has worked fine in the previous 3 starts.

What could cause this, how can I diagnose it and what can be done to ensure it doesn't happen again?

 

Weak battery or loose connection. Get the Battery load tested at autozone etc... The studdering was probably the starter solenoid.

 

I'll second the battery, check battery voltage with a volt meter. Check all the connections to and from the starter and battery, and grounds. Report back.

 

Do you know off-hand what would be a reasonable voltage range for the towing package stock battery?

Why would the truck stutter one time (yesterday) then be fine in the several starts since? Is there anything else I can do diagnostically to prove one problem or another?

Thanks for the help!

 

Just reading the battery with a meter doesn't tell you much. Autozone will load test it free of charge. That will tell you if the battery is good or not.

With the engine not running, a car battery should read about 12 - 12.5 volts. The normal charging voltage (with engine running) is about 13.6 - 14 volts.

Usually in a case where it comes and goes the battery connections are corroded and not making a good connection. They will need to be removed, cleaned and reinstalled.

 

Over 12.4 - just under 13.

Anything below 12.4 is close to dead. 12.4 isn't completely charged either.

Your battery may have been down on charge (could be because of different things) and then once started your alt is putting out as much as it can to charge it.

I would check battery voltage. If it's low, put it on a trickle charger.

Have it load tested though. Voltage should be above 12.4 when load testing. 1/2 CCA for 15 seconds @70* should stay above 9.6V.

If you can find someone with an (inductive probe preferably) ammeter you could also look at how many amps the starter is pulling, this could give you an idea of what it's doing. Start with the battery first though.

Also do a voltage drop test across the starter cables and across the solenoid.

 

Sure it will. 12v is dead. Anything under 12.4 is pretty low.

 

At 77 degress F, a fully charged wet, low-maintenance lead-acid battery will be approximately 1.265 Specific Gravity and 12.65 VDC with the surface charge removed. A Specific Gravity reading is more accurate than a voltage measurement. For more information on battery testing, please see Section 4 in the Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ on www.batteryfaq.org.

 

As already said above,Suggest you go to AutoZone........they will test it for free.

 

Only if you have a nice hydrometer.

 

That still doesn't tell you much. It does give an indication of state of charge, but thats it. A badly sulfated battery can still be 100% charged, but not put out anywhere near its rated current. So I have to agree with those that say a load (or capacitance) test is the way to go.

That said, I'd start by cleaning the terminals and making sure they are tight, then if the issue continues, visit the dealer for warranty, unless you've racked up a lot of miles on that '11.

 

Phil, your points are well taken.

State-of-Charge measurements are only relative to the capacity and performance of the battery. Sulfation affects both. Load (for capacity) and conductance (for performance) testing will give a much better indication if a battery is healthy. The acid (no pun intended) test is will the battery reliably start the engine. I would fully recharge, to the extent possible, the battery before performing any testing. This will improve the accuracy of the testing. Corrosion on the battery lugs or posts and oxidation on the connections to the frame and block are very common causes of high resistance and loss of voltage. They are consistent with SLMGT's symptoms.