Sub + Amp Install Help

For the battery wire, there are 2 grommets in the firewall. No need to poke through existing boots.

 

The existing grommet in the firewall will go up to 4awg cable....which is fine for most systems (1000-ish watts/100-150amps).

1) Remove the grommet from the firewall and invert it so the nib protrudes out. Then with a utility knife shave the nib off.
2) I used a leather punch set to make the hole. I tested it on a piece of plastic to see which diameter (10mm) gave a tight fit on the cable before I punched the grommet.
3) Flip the grommet over and the punch fitting actually rests in the 'cup' of the the grommet.
4) Two good taps with the hammer did the job.
5) I was a tad off-center but what a clean hole. (I should have marked center before I punched)
6) Very snug fit will not allow water in...and Bob's your uncle!

Important note: No need to punch through the felt padding on the inside of the firewall...just feed the wire through and down between the firewall and the felt padding.

 

There is a good (and already threaded) ground point underneath the front driver seat just right of the front/left seat bolt (if you are seated). I confirmed this with a multi meter. I used a brass wire wheel to remove the paint around the threaded hole, bought a bolt from the auto parts store and applied a little dialectic grease after tightening.

 

Crutchfield will have all the right answers

 

that's the right way to do it. plug in modules, if the module is ever in question, unplug/replace.

i prefer to separate the LOC part from the amp, and use RCA connections specifically as a solution to the 'tv/dvd/vcr combo' problem.

yes, most amps will accept either high level or low level inputs. i prefer to run low level inputs to amps-- it makes changing and upgrading easier as all amps have low level inputs, but not all amps have high level inputs. and all aftermarket radio's have low level outputs as well.

i don't like running high level inputs directly to amps specifically because something needs to convert that signal down, and separating that conversion process to an external component allows for easier troubleshooting, as well a different means of adjustment of the signal as well. integrating the function within the amp means all adjustment is limited to the amps features and design specifications--some are good, some are bad. but running high level inputs also means that later system upgrades can be more complex and wire intensive as well, in many cases, meaning that much work that was done needs to be re-done.

 

As long as i have one persons approval im good im installing everything either today or tomorrow. going to post pictures when done.

 

So the harness I ordered is coming in today, I've watched videos of people plugging in the harness and they plug in an extra wire to a wire coming off the harness. I don't have the extra wire, or the wire coming off the harness. Am I missing something?

 

What is it you mean by "plug an extra wire to a wire coming off the harness"? Do they splice into one of the harness wires? Can you provide the video you referenced?

 

Still going strong since I did this several years ago. I’m always up to rub it in someone’s face that says it’s the wrong way.

 

Just stripping wires, twisting them together, and then wadding some electrical tape over the whole thing?

Sure it works. There's also a reason everyone else is saying it's the bad way to do things.

Both can exist, but only one is acceptable professionally for a reason.

 

no sir they where soldered and wrapped in factory type tape material.