Sub and Amp recommendation for AC

I want to add a sub in my 07 AC with non JBL system.

Budget is around $300, $325 top. I want a sealed single 10". Im looking to just add some low's. I don't listen to a lot of hard rap. Right now I am looking to add the KDC-X895 as well for a head unit. Should I look at 2ohm or 4ohm? Single voice or dual voice? RMS compared to Peak, how high up should I go on the peak, 300 or 500? I don't want a 1000w amp, I am planning on installing it under the passenger seat so it needs to be compact. What are your thoughts/ recommendations.

I've already got a good set of RCA's from my previous system as well as a power wire and ground wire. So hopefully I can get the sub/box/amp for around 325.


Please help me pick out my system.

And remember, help is why we are on this forum. Please don't come in here telling me to "search button". I've done that and am more confused.

 

Copied from NW BS thread..

x2. Always a more flexible option. More reading here:
Subwoofers FAQ
Matching Subs & Amps

Take some of their advice with a grain of salt (I'm using their sites simply because they get the baseline idea right, and everybody likes pictures!). Not all of their answers are true, which is typical of this industry.

It's more a more of the continuous power handling... more on this in my next comment.

Be careful with trying to run the numbers game. All manufacturers lie with their numbers, even the ones that claim 'true' power.
Actually scratch that - it's not so much they lie, it's that they do a very good job of number manipulation. No one company measures the same way, so you can't do apples and apples. It's very frustrating. My advice is that you use the RMS figures as a general guide and let your ears do the MAIN decision making.

As you can see, I've struggled with this

I've personally not been impressed with Kicker, and I'm really not sure where they get so much publicity, other than they probably pay their distributors really well. Kicker, Alpine, Pioneer, MB Quart.... getting stuck in brand favoritism is an expectation here, and people often buy the label rather than the sound. I hate Infinity's sound, but have a soft spot for Memphis Audio. There's another guy on here who buys nothing but Infinity. We both buy quality gear, but arrive at a different sound because our ears are different. Neither one of us is wrong. Confusing, right?

Peak Power is a complete marketing scam.

At 350, you can do one of Tim's subs (which is a good model and performance for their target market, made sweeter with buying used), a generic sealed box, and then dump all money at the amp. Although you pay for the name, JL does a good job, and I see there's a few out there within the budget.

I typically try to keep people away from under-seat mounting of amps, because it's the lowest spot on the cab (where does water, dust, dirt go?), it's prone to being hit by the underside of some seats when they move, and can sometimes get in the way of airbag sensors.
however, there's really no where else for you
Placing it on the driver's side for YOUR YEAR is probably the best choice, because you don't run the risk of hitting the side airbag sensors (since you don't have side airbags). I can't remember, but you may need to see if there's a stability bar under the seat that you may need to flip over. If it's something you have to remove, better do it on the passenger side instead.
Make sure the connections are accessible, but well away from kicking feet. In my old car, I just made the wires longer and was able to slide the amp out for adjustments. If you were to get fancy, a nice tray with sliding, locking rails could make a good project
Keep in mind a good, SHORT ground to the vehicle frame is imperative.

 

Thanks

 

Anyone else?

 

just the sub box and wiring will be close to what your budget is, or is that for just amp/sub

 

I'm hoping to be able to get sub and amp for my budget.

 

Here are a couple amps I've found. I know I need to go listen to get an idea.

https://www.cartoys.com/products/product.cfm/JLAudio/JL-Audio-250-1-Car-Amplifier-1-Channel

http://cartoys.com/products/product..._Fosgate_Punch_P300_1_300_Watt_Mono_Amplifier

 

And just quickly searching. Here are a couple subs. I used to have a RF Punch 12" and really liked how it sounded.

http://cartoys.com/products/product.cfm/JL Audio/JL_Audio_10W1v2_4

http://cartoys.com/products/product.cfm/Kenwood/Kenwood_KFC_W2512_10_Inch_1000_Watt_Subwoofer

http://cartoys.com/products/product...P1S410-10-inches-Punch-P1-4-Ohm-SVC-Subwoofer

http://cartoys.com/products/product...410-10-Punch-P2-4Ohm-DVC-Subwoofer-2011-Model

 

I would rather see you get this amp out of your selections. The JL you have listed was only 4 ohm stable, you want to be as close to 1 ohm as your budget will allow. This is because the resistance measurement is a pretty good indicator of the efficiency of the amp and the quality.

sub is harder. Go listen and report back. My advice is to try a baseline amp and compare with it. Choice on sub is also limited to box size, since you need to match to your airspace.

 

Awesome. Thanks for the advice. I might go that way.

 

So I went on JL's website and found that the JL JX250 amp if wired at 2ohm will produce 250watts. how do you wire for different Ohms?

 

via the sub visit that link I posted with all the pics of the sub diagrams getting wired up

 

Yeah I looked a lot on that this morning when I couldn't sleep. The JL Slash 250 is discontinued. I know less is best with Ohms, but is there a bug difference between 2 and 4 on an amp? Since I'm on a budget

 

most everything is 1,2, and 4 ohms.
Just because it's discontinued doesn't make it bad. I specifically got my sub (JL 10w3v2) for my particular application, despite it being on closeout. Sure, big year differences can sometimes matter, but getting last year's model can sometimes be economical.

Did you try Italynstallion? He sometimes knows lesser-known brands that are great. They cost less due to less marketing, but end up being better quality than mainstream. He also might have an idea for a certain one to look at. For budget gear, Alpine and Pioneer sometimes do pretty decent. I know I've hated on RF, but do your own research as well. Do the connections look good? controls are easy to reach and quality? Enough control without too many glitzy stupid stuff?

 

The resistance of the sub determines this. A 4ohm DVC sub wired in parallel will produce a 2ohm load, as would (obviously) a sub with a single 2ohm voicecoil.

 

ok, just because im so awesome I'll let my secret out, the best place i know of to buy amps, which are yes, refurbished with a warranty http://www.db-r.com/

some say their repairs are better than original factory, i have had my saz-1500d repaired their under warranty and it was fast, with excellent customer service, they are the authorized sundown audio repair shop.

http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_67_69_108&products_id=285

sax-1200d for $275~1500 watts rms@1ohm~5.45 watts per dollar is one heck of a deal

 

^^ If that shop can be trusted, Sundown amps are supposed to be really good.

Not picking on 06SR5canada, it's just dubious buying from some online retailers.

 

I emailed my local cartoys to see what they would recommend within my budget of sub, box, amp and HU.

The rep said within my budget I could get:

HU: KDC-X895

Sub: JBL CS1014 10" DVC 4ohm

Amp: Jensen Power4002 2 channel.

He said that "Doing a 2channel with a single 4 ohm voice coil sub will allow us to bridge the amp intoa 2ohm load to achieve maximum power potential from the amplifier"

Both the sub and amp when looking online don't have the best reviews, and look cheap. I'm planning on going and listening to some sub's tomorrow, then I will probably order off crutchfield if the price is better and do the install myself

 

You are on the right track ordering online...at least if the only other option is Car Toys. That is the most overpriced place I have seen in any hobby. Look at Al and Eds Electronics. They are a great shop with incredible pricing...highly recommended if you aren't going to shop local.

I think you may have quoted the installer wrong, or the wording was just a little confusing. A single sub with a single 4ohm voicecoil is always going to have 4 ohms of resistance. However, a single sub with dual 4ohm voicecoils can be wired to either 2 or 8ohms. Any 1 or 2 channel amp that is stable at 2 ohms (bridged in the case of the 2 channel amp) will work in your application just as the installer was probably trying to say.

 

Cartoys is a bunch of noobs and they work on commission. When you don't get pushy salespeople, you get people that know less than you do. One girl wanted me to buy a certain sub because it was, "the bomb."
The installers know more, but can be hit or miss. I believe there's some amount of per hour rate, but form the most part they are paid by how much installs they can do, so don't plan on them taking much time.

that setup is marginally better than what Wal-Mart sells. Think on that.

True you can bridge, but he's most likely suggesting a Class AB or something amp. You want a Class D, which is meant to do one thing: drive a sub.

crutchfield prices are generally more, but they do a good job of sending you info on how to hook things up yourself, and you'll save doing it yourself as well.