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Sub size help for best bass in DNB. 8's or 10's?

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Ajclouse, May 20, 2025.

  1. May 20, 2025 at 10:52 PM
    #1
    Ajclouse

    Ajclouse [OP] Member

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    VA Blue Ridge Mtns
    Vehicle:
    3rd Gen TRD Offroad Dbl Cab 5' Bed all factory
    Slotted rotors and Truck/SUV pads so I don't have to say none. Running boards may not be factory (previous owner) but everything else is.
    I'm a car audio novice, so naturally I want at least a 12". Since bigger=better bass, of course.
    More seriously, though, I'm wondering if dual 10's or 8's are the way to go for the double cab. I need my passenger count to remain, so I think behind the bench is the best option. Crutchfield sells that $400 custom dual 10 enclosure, but it hurts paying that much for a box... Given my experience with enclosure construction though (also I've managed to never own a jigsaw or router), and the fact that I know the premade box will fit no problem, thats my current plan.
    Unless dual or triple 8's would be better, that is.
    I listen mostly to Drum N' Bass-DNB- (Jam Thieves, Jappa, Banzai, Mozey to name a few) which is pretty bass heavy (the other half being drums...). Being new to audio in general, I don't exactly know how to describe the bass involved for folks unfamiliar with the genre, or look up what's best to reproduce it in the truck. DNB is very repetitive music, a lot of 4-beat, and high BPM. Whatever I get, it's gonna be worked hard and have a demanding job.
    I know I need to reach under 30 a lot, and consistently (amp to power all that is gonna hurt at checkout, yeah?). So, what size subwoofer am I after? Is an 8 large enough to reach the under 30's? I see dual 10's suggested a lot. I do not care as much about the high range (within the overall setup), just mids a little, with the good stuff as top priority for myself.
    I just put in the JL Audio C1 6x9's up front, plan to do the 6.5s soon/ before sub. I don't want to have to redo the sub's down the line; I'll upgrade the woofers themselves if I want, but once I settle on size and quantity, I'm hoping that's it.
    No idea if it'll help, "Swarm" or "DNB Religion" by Terrance & Phillip are good examples.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2025
  2. May 20, 2025 at 10:58 PM
    #2
    Ajclouse

    Ajclouse [OP] Member

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    Gender:
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    VA Blue Ridge Mtns
    Vehicle:
    3rd Gen TRD Offroad Dbl Cab 5' Bed all factory
    Slotted rotors and Truck/SUV pads so I don't have to say none. Running boards may not be factory (previous owner) but everything else is.
    Non JBL head unit will stay, my uncle (leads installs of fiber optic line and other tasks for area electric company) has shown me how to remove the ends of RCA's and mate them with the appropriate wires on the head unit. Instead of LOC. Or high input. I'll take suggestions...
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2025
  3. May 21, 2025 at 1:36 AM
    #3
    GilbertOz

    GilbertOz Driver

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    FOX 2.5, Deavers, ARB, OTT, 4xInnovations
    Don't know if this style box will suit your layout needs but I've been very satisfied with it in my 2014 Access Cab.

    JL Audio CS113TG-TW5v2. Sealed 13.5" sub rated 600W RMS, 1200W peak. Sealed enclosure = very tight, clean, controlled bass. In my experience I've always preferred sealed subs over ported designs.

    https://www.crutchfield.com/S-idBw98hb9qs/p_13693256/JL-Audio-CS113TG-TW5v2.html

    I currently run this on one channel of a JL 400W x 5 channel amp with 10-gauge power wiring and 12 gauge speaker wiring. In this configuration it does OK but I can tell it's nowhere near its true potential. 2 other channels go to JL C6-650s.

    I have a separate, dedicated JL HD750/1 monoblock amp sitting on a shelf in my garage that I've been meaning to install for a couple years, just haven't gotten around to it.

    **Note, one weird thing, JL Audio (the brand) recently sold itself to Garmin® (the GPS company) sometime in 2023. As of a month ago, all of JL Audio's website is now crudely and confusingly moved under Garmin.com. Be on the lookout. Hopefully this doesn't signal the end of JL Audio's great history as a car audio company.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2025
    Ajclouse[OP] likes this.
  4. May 21, 2025 at 2:02 AM
    #4
    GilbertOz

    GilbertOz Driver

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    Meh.. idk, I would be wary of buying any "JL Audio" products that have been manufactured in the "Garmin Audio" era, i.e. the past 2 years or so. I got all my JL stuff in 2021, well before the sale.

    I fear that the storied history and great reputation of the JL brand may be at an end. I wasn't aware of this sale until just this evening when I was trying to search for JL audio specs and kept getting redirected to garmin.com's website. I thought my web browser was broken..

    https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/jl-audio-no-more.475393/page-2
     
    Ajclouse[OP] likes this.
  5. May 21, 2025 at 5:31 AM
    #5
    rob feature

    rob feature Tacos!

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    Shocks. Pegs. Lucky.
    You might need a vented enclosure to reliably dig under 30 Hz. It's mostly gonna be about your enclosure really. No need for pairs probably either. Subs are pretty effective these days if you buy the right one & feed it enough power. I'm using a single SA 10 on under 600W, vented & tuned to about 28 Hz, and it'll move the steering wheel & sheet metal if I ask it to.

    You probably aren't getting this out of prefab anything though. Look up Mr Marv on here & have him build you one if you don't wanna tackle it. It's not a trivial part of the equation. Prefab enclosures are always a compromise.

    As far as JL goes, I wouldn't worry yet. They aren't going to throw out millions in R&D and tooling just because. They'll keep milking those designs for some time to come. Garmin is a leader in aviation electronics for one example. I don't see them intentionally destroying the JL brand.
     
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