1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Subs w/stock head unit help

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by VissionMx, Apr 27, 2011.

  1. Apr 27, 2011 at 5:07 PM
    #1
    VissionMx

    VissionMx [OP] Socialist States of America

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2009
    Member:
    #20920
    Messages:
    116
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chase
    Canyon Lake, CA
    Vehicle:
    06 PreRunner Sport Dbl Cab
    DTRL,Blinker DTRL, fogs anytiime, relocated and blacked badges, Decepticon emblem(by MetalMiller)
    I think I need some help getting the parts I need to hook up my subs.

    This is what I have so far:
    2 kicker cvt8 subs
    rockford fosgagte- prime r500 amp

    still needed:
    4 or 8 awg? ground and power
    rca cables
    speaker wire, guage?
    line out converter, for stock hu?
    ........ anything else?

    any ideas on some low cost products. THANKS, Chase
     
  2. Apr 27, 2011 at 5:31 PM
    #2
    fishntaco

    fishntaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2010
    Member:
    #32523
    Messages:
    302
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Josh
    Mobile Al
    Vehicle:
    08 Silver Streak DCLB Prerunner Sport
    For power wire I would get 4 gauge. Check out knuconceptz and look at their kolossus flexs wire, it is good and reasonably priced

    For speaker wire either 12 or 14 gauge is good. Knuconceptz also carries this.

    You will need a line out converter for your stock headunit.

    You will also need a main fuse block to go at the battery. A 60 amp fuse will be sufficient. I would not recommend getting this from Knuconceptz, check a local audio shop or Amazon.
     
  3. Apr 27, 2011 at 5:37 PM
    #3
    lbridges

    lbridges Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2011
    Member:
    #52434
    Messages:
    403
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Lee
    Indialantic, FL
    Vehicle:
    '11 PreRunner SR5
    Power/Ground Wire size: Got to www.bcae1.com and on the right side scroll down to #16, wire. Read that and use the recommendation for your setup. I personally would run 4AWG anyway just in case of later add-ons.

    RCA cables almost don't matter. Since you ask about line out converters later, make sure to run speaker wire from the headunit to as close to the amp as possible, then connect to the LOC, and then the shortest possible RCA to amp will give the best sound quality and/or lowest noise.

    Line Out Converter: I heartily recommend products from David Navone, an engineer and pioneer in car audio. the N-RHL2 is what you need IMO. Also happens to take care of the remote amp turn on problem with a stock headunit if that's what you have to work with - he has other products (like the NE7V) if you don't need the remote turn on.

    Wire to go back to the door speakers from an amp: 16 gauge is fine, 12 is a high end type solution. Probably 12 is OK for a short amp to subwoofer run unless you're pushing massive wattage.

    Perhaps most important, don't fall for a bunch of salesmanship BS on wiring. Wire/Cable, in the audio spectrum, has three germane properties: RLC - Resistance, Inductance, and Capacitance.
    Resistance (R): you minimize this by larger size wires, up to a point of greatly diminished returns, and ensuring the end-point connections (at amp, and at speaker) are secure and properly made.
    Inductance (L): I forget why they use L but I think becuase "I" is sometimes used for current. Anyway, don't make loops in speaker wire. RCA cables, etc. and you are OK.
    Capacitance (C): Pretty much as long as the spacing between the +/- wires to a speaker are not varying it doesn't matter. Typical speaker wires is already joined together side-by-side, so no worries.

    Any claim about cables influencing sound, other than something impacting RLC, is snake oil and the salesman/web site should be filed away as a person/place not to trust.

    Finally, fuse within 16" of the battery, don't let a wire chaffing and then shorting out burn down all your effort.
     
  4. Apr 27, 2011 at 5:41 PM
    #4
    VissionMx

    VissionMx [OP] Socialist States of America

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2009
    Member:
    #20920
    Messages:
    116
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chase
    Canyon Lake, CA
    Vehicle:
    06 PreRunner Sport Dbl Cab
    DTRL,Blinker DTRL, fogs anytiime, relocated and blacked badges, Decepticon emblem(by MetalMiller)
    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    #4
  5. Apr 27, 2011 at 5:45 PM
    #5
    jtav2002

    jtav2002 Kenny Fuckin Powers

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2009
    Member:
    #19074
    Messages:
    4,460
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Josh
    Reading, PA
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DBL Cab TRD OR
    My amp had speaker level inputs I just used those myself instead of a LOC until I got an aftermarket HU.
     
  6. Apr 27, 2011 at 5:58 PM
    #6
    lbridges

    lbridges Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2011
    Member:
    #52434
    Messages:
    403
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Lee
    Indialantic, FL
    Vehicle:
    '11 PreRunner SR5
    I'm sure it's OK, but I'd check at Walmart, they generally have the best prices for the things they actually stock and wire is one of those things (in my area anyway).
     
  7. Apr 28, 2011 at 4:04 AM
    #7
    rebus20

    rebus20 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2011
    Member:
    #55538
    Messages:
    3
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Scott
    Georgia
    Vehicle:
    03 double cab trd


    Thats were I got mine in my last truck. I looked for my tacoma the other day and the kit was $25. I dont remember what gauge wire was in it.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top