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Subwoofer Install/ Stock HU/ Audio Signal

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by TylerBroomhall, Nov 8, 2015.

  1. Nov 8, 2015 at 9:46 PM
    #1
    TylerBroomhall

    TylerBroomhall [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2015
    Member:
    #169068
    Messages:
    4
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tyler
    Georgetown TX
    Vehicle:
    2013 Grey Tacoma TSS Sport Series
    Alloy 20" TSS race wheels, K&N cold air intake, Kicker 6x9's, 10 inch Kicked subwoofer with 600w Boss Riot Amplifier, 3inch front - 2.5 inch rear lift , weathertech floor mats, 20 inch bumper mount light bar
    20151108_225659.jpg 20151108_225726.jpg 20151108_225659.jpg 20151108_224935.jpg 20151108_225419.jpg first post on the forum, hope it helps!! I'm looking to help everyone with with task of running an audio signal to the amp with the factory head unit. Then colors of wires used are slecific to my 2013 tacoma double cab non jbl system. If the wires I use are not present in your Tacoma use the following directions for audio signal wire identification. Removal of door panels (preferably rear panels if applicable or front planels if its a single) will reveal speakers, check colors and splice to those wires for audio signal and use those wires as a substitute for the ones I mention in this thread. I apologize for the poor picture quality, it is what it is. Anyway I used a kicker ported box and 10 inch kicker sub (bought it as a matched pair) because I fits behind the seat in my 2013 DC (you must remove the plastic storage liner before install). The model of my sub/ box combo is 40TCSW102. You can use any amp you want. My boss 600w does wonders but I recommend getting an amp with speaker level inputs to save the hastle of running a line output converter. On speaker level inputs you need a left + and - as well as a right + and -. Remove both front floor rockers panels on both sides as well as the kick plates. (Passenger side) In the large wire loom (comes from the back door) split the plastic to reveal the wires. You'll find a red and white pair of wires that slightly larger than the rest and twisted together. Splice into the red wire and run to amp for the right - input. Splice into white wire and run for amp for right + input. (Driver side) split largest plastic wire loom to reveal wires, search for twisted, slightly larger, back wire and yellow wire. Splice into black and run to amp for left -. Splice into yellow wire and run to amp for left +. Any line output converter or even the amp speaker level input harness itself will require it's own ground. Simply wire it into the ground input on the back side of the amp. There's a plethora of information on basic amp wiring to wire a power, ground, remote and speaker wires. This thread is meant to be 2nd Gen Tacoma specific so I won't include the universal side of amp wiring. (Note. I found a good remote wire in the passenger kick plate with a test light. Looking for wires with power only in the acc and on position, and no power when key is off). With my particular set up, the sub fits perfectly without any anchoring needed. The seat,when closed, pins the sub in place. However; I did have to remove the child seat anchors. I'm 18 and not looking for kids right now so I can get away with not having them for now. Anyway, I apologize again for the poor picture quality, hopefully you can get an idea of the location and identification of the wires needed for audio signal. If this helped please let me know. Any comments? Questions? Suggestions? Open to any input, happy wiring!!
     
  2. Nov 8, 2015 at 9:55 PM
    #2
    shaneckc

    shaneckc Fyntünd Designs Vendor

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2010
    Member:
    #39362
    Messages:
    1,305
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Shane
    Thousand Oaks, CA
    Vehicle:
    2014 SR Package DCLB 4x4
    I don't think this is going to "help" anyone here...
     

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