Subwoofer Wiring Question

Forget it. I am buying a new head unit with apple car play.

 

Very nice. Just thought of this... At a crafts store, Michael's, ac moore... Get some thin foam and stuff it between the back is the enclosure and the back wall of the cab.

 

It is rattling within the speaker itself.

 

Ah, to me a rattle is something making noise, vibrating.... The speakers blown.

 

lol

 

I am just done with the stupid thing overall.

 

Just do it right. Get a new head unit and amp. Pull the OEM setup out and build a box to put in it's place. Save you alot of head ache.

 

Build a ported box right down the middle with 1 kicker solobaric L7 dual 2ohm voice coil sub, put about 1200-2000 watt to it. Then sit back and start breaking welds and loosening all the screws in the body of the truck everytime you crank it up

When you pick your head unit, make sure it has separate RCA outputs for the front the back and the sub with adjustable output voltage.

Also, don't skimp, spend the extra couple hundred to buy an active cross over. You will thank me later

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV100/Sony-XAV-AX100.html I was looking at this... What do you think?

 

That will 'work'. No Navigation, no disk support, so no watching movies or CD/DVD's chocked full of mp3'smp3's, no video out (if you want to add additional screens), small display. The specs listed are kinda vague.

I don't use all of the smart phone stuff, so can't comment on those features.

But, just to use as a head unit and listen to the radio and stuff from your phone, I guess it would work.

 

Right Now, where does the music you listen to come from? Radio, phone, USB thumb drive, a DVD or CD?

I think that's one thing you need to consider.

 

Just FYI, for a good basic simple audio build... for a good head unit set budget at $1000. Sub amp budget $500, cross over budget $200, sub budget $350, box materials budget $100. You might come out spending less, but best to over budget

To do it right, add another $300-$600 for front and rear door speakers and depending on your setup another $700 or so for amps for the doors, and another $300 for wireswires, fuses and blocks.

Lol, not wanting to scare you, just teach a little.

I get where your at. I was young and on a budget once too!

If your happy with your current head unit but just want bass without spending a fortune, this is what you do....

First off, there is more than a power wire running to the OEM sub. There HAS to be 2 signal wires also going to it. It may be one 'plug' but there are signal wires coming from the head unit for audio.

Find those 2 wires, connect those to a signal converter. Plug the RCA wires coming out of the signal converter to an amp. Make sure the amp has a built in low pass filter. Mount the amp where ever you want to.

Cut that OEM sub stuff out. Build a box, put a sub in it, hook the sub to the amp.

It's dirty, but cheap. Can be done for probably...

$35 filter
$350 subwoofer
$100 box building materials
$50 wires
$300 decent amp
$0.00 a weekend of your time

 

Thanks for the help. I am just deciding whether to replace the head unit or not.

 

OK brother I think I have a pretty good solution for you that's not too expensive and pretty easy to do. Pull the OEM sub out. Get rid of everything but the OEM amp. Stash the amp where ever you want.

In this post...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/what-powers-factory-x-subwoofer-in-access-cab.555473/

You see the red and black wires that connect to the speaker? Those wires are the signal wires coming from the OEM amp.

Connect those wires to an AudioControl LC2i converter. About $100.

Connect the LC2i RCA outputs to a Skar Audio SKV2-1500.1D amp. (about $300).

Build a ported box to put where the OEM speaker is currently located. Install a Kicker Solo Basic 12" L7 2ohm DVC (Dual Voice Coil) speaker in the box. (about $300)

Even without a new head unit you will have neighbors calling the cops with noise complaints

 

Wow I didn't even think about this... I will probably give it a try. This would actaully be a lot easier. Thanks so much man ALSO, is it hard to build a box or nah?

 

Do you have any pictures of your truck? I am looking at a 3 or 4 inch lift and yours looks pretty sick.

 

A ported box needs to be designed. Building them isn't 'easy' but can be done with a table saw and good tools. Having a pro shop build one would probably run $300. What's the width of the space you have to work with where the OEM sub is? One of my best friends builds custom audio boxes, I can ask what he would charge.

 

I talked my boss who is basically a McGiever and said that he would gladly build me a box!

 

Schematics for boxes are professional secrets. Here is the kicker specs

https://www.kicker.com/12-l7-subwoofer

 

I appreciate all of the help my man!