Sudden braking issue - help

Hi, all.

I just returned from a bikepack/tour trip - Portland, OR to Moab to Great Basin, returning via Sheldon Wildlife Refuge-Lakeview OR, Bend, OR - through Mt. Hood. All through the trip, the truck ran great and stopped fine.

Then, about 40ish miles from home, going through Sandy, OR I stepped on the brakes for a stop light, the pedal went further than normal and the braking pulled the truck to the right. After that, I seemed to have to pump the brakes to get a more normal feel.

I looked under the truck and no brake fluid was visible at the wheels. The fluid level is good.

Could a master cylinder be causing this?

'98 SR5, still stock brakes, 4x4

Thanks,
Paula

 

Pulling to one side suggests to me that a brake caliper is locked up. One could be locked "closed" - pulling to that side, or one could be locked "open" meaning you have less braking (thus pulling towards the side with "normal" braking).

Anyway, that's where I'd start to look. Even just removing the wheels to inspect the rotors, pads (are they worn to metal on one side?), etc. will give you a lot more info to go on as you start to debug this.

 

Thanks, will start there.

 

You could put your hand on each rim to check their temperatures. After driving around for 30 minutes they should be warm, but none of them should be too hot to touch. If a rim is too hot to touch for longer than a second or two, it's an indication that the brakes on that wheel are dragging. This works for the rear brakes (drum type), dunno about the front ones though 'cause I never had a problem with the front brakes, just the rear ones.

 

Thanks.

 

A good inspection of the front brakes and Master Cylinder should shed some light on the problem.

 

Thanks.

 

Oddly enough, I had a small errand to run and the brakes are working normal. I guess with our weather getting a bit better, it's time to do my Tundra brake upgrade.

Thanks all!

 

Might as well - can't dance...

 

Just be ready till you trouble shoot the issue it can return any time just be ready not to be surprised.

 

This page has a great step-by-step guide (with pics) on the upgrade, as well as links to all the parts needed (at varying price points). OEM is best for the pads, but for the calipers you shouldn't pay the premium. Get them from your local parts store (ideally) or Amazon, which will give a lifetime warranty in case you ever need to replace them. And don't forget the upgraded lines, they make a big difference with the larger calipers.

Step by Step Tundra Brake Upgrade on a Tacoma

Don't forget a good hard-line-conversion kit!

​

 

When is the last time the fluid was replaced? Brake Fluid has a useful life and yours may be at the end of it. The first thing I would do is get fresh fluid into your Taco before throwing any parts at it unless, you know for a fact, the brake fluid was replaced recently.

 

Thanks. That's the info I used to get the parts (in garage waiting). Just waiting on more than a partial day of dry here in PNW to do the work.

 

Are you leaking fluid, visually inspect behind each tire. If you are, remove that wheel and inspect, otherwise if no leaks,
your hydroscopic brake fluid may be contaminated and unable to function.
Get a quart of brake fluid (right dot). Turkey baster or use a large syringe to suck out old brake fluid
in master cylinder. Add clean fluid to the top and leave off cap. Then get a buddy to help you bleed FIVE brake spots from rear right to rear left,
the adjuster tied to rear axle, and front right and lastly left. Bleed fluid out until fluid is clean.
You can also do this with one person - make a brake bleeder or buy one from Hrbr Frt.
Don't forget to top up master between bleeds. This should be easy try at fixing your
brakes. At this time, jack up rear wheel if they have pads and make sure they are not sticking
when you rotate w/ tranny in neutral (chock wheels in front) and rotate freely. Adjust if they do not, accordingly.
If the brakes still are not right, remove rear wheel, brake-kleen off, inspect caliper/shoes for leaks and check them out.

 

You likely had a brake dragging (pulling steering wheel) which overheated and boiled the brake fluid (soft petal).

When you allowed it to cool the brake fluid turns back into a liquid state restoring the firm pedal.

The cause, your dragging brake, could be caused by a few different things; unevenly worn pads (brake guide bolts or piston), worn piston or seals, dirt/foreign objects in your braking system.

If it's, just some crap loged in and around the caliper, it could fix itself... Or you could take it apart real quick and clean it. If it is clean, taking it apart should show you the issue.

Good luck!

 

Hi, no visible fluid leaks, and currently working as expected. With weather improving here, my plan is to install my tundra brakes, inspect rear drums, bleed and on we go.

 

I found bent caliper pins were causing uneven wear on the pads.

 

I had these same issues and when I inspected my passenger front brake pads looks pristine and my driver front looked almost completely used up, maybe 25% of its life left. This is after replacing about 1 year ago with fresh pads on both sides, and only about 5k miles... Since I thought this was due to a brake caliper locked up and needed replacement, I figured it was time for the tundra brake upgrade. I regret nothing, I have more braking power, its more even and I can stop sooner. If you go this route I would say you should absolutely get the kit from @turbodb , and 2) make sure you do a really really good job bleeding your brakes after. I had issues feeling 'soft' pedal, but then after bleeding them 3-4x the suggested way in his guide (pump pump pump pump hold), my brake pedal feels normal.

 

Done: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...t-gen-edition.138573/page-10920#post-28713562