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Suggestions on a sub and amp

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by fredfarmer, Jun 19, 2011.

  1. Jun 19, 2011 at 1:34 AM
    #1
    fredfarmer

    fredfarmer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have part of my system, but need some suggestions on a suband amp. I have a 2010 access cab and none of this has been installed yet..

    I have a Kenwood DNX 7140. If anyone has this I have acouple of questions about it. I have the iPod cable, is there a way I can setit up to use that and have another USB port available for thumb drives? Also,if I burn a DVD full of MP3s will it read the disk?

    I have Kenwood KFC P708 components with the plastic Scosche adapters. Will I notice any difference if I got adapters made from MDF instead? I plan on putting in some dynamat on the doors and putting 50 watts to thespeakers. I plan on getting a sub box from xtreme creations, any suggestions on a 10” sub to go in it?

    I will need a 3 channel amp as well. I would like 50 watts going to the components, but not sure on the sub and need suggestions here as well.
    TYIA!
     
  2. Jun 19, 2011 at 6:10 AM
    #2
    lbridges

    lbridges Well-Known Member

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    Unless you're going to buy a box from Mr Marv my personal opinion is not to PM. Just seems like the right thing to do, but YMMV.

    The unit specs claim it will play a DVD disc of MP3s, but before you burn, read the manual, sometimes they limit the number of songs to ~1000. Don't know about iPod and USB, maybe time to send an e-mail to Kenwood's support dept.

    Changing from plastic to MDF - at reasonable listening levels I doubt you would hear a difference unless comparing side-by-side, engine off and in a quiet location. This assumes the plastic is properly mounted and not flimsy - I haven't used the Tacoma version of the adapter. It's a good question though, as the denser and heavier a baffle plate is, the better for the sound. I just think there is a point of diminishing returns, and if you dynamat the plastic adapter as well as the door IMO you will get a good enough solution. Make sure the plate is well sealed to the door, and the speaker to the plate - that is way more critical than the material of the plate.

    Sometimes people use the Dynamat product name to mean other brands as well. I hope that's your intent as they charge more than other equal brands for the thing. Try RAAMat, SecondSkin, etc. do a little google research and save yourself a few bucks. Also you should make some sort of cover (aluminum/plexiglass/etc.) over the internal door openings. Then cover that with damping material as well.

    You have a nice headunit, so I personally would suggest a nice amp as well, something like the JL Audio XD 500/3.

    Modern, shallow subs I can't offer an opinion on as I've not heard any. Probably can't go wrong with products from the major brands that fit your budget - JL Audio, Alpine, Pioneer. Just remember there is no substitute for displacement. Subs are mostly about moving air - area of the speaker cone times the distance the cone moves determines sound output.

    Good luck, whichever way you go.
     
  3. Jun 19, 2011 at 6:32 AM
    #3
    fredfarmer

    fredfarmer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sweet, thanks for the info / feedback. I am still undecided on getting the enclosure from xtreme creations or the one that mr marv makes that replaces the rear console. I really don't need to move houses with it, I just want it to sound good in the cab.

    I don't know jack about installing, so I will be going somewhere to get it all installed. I think I will be using whatever sound deading that the shop carries that I take it to for the install. Anyone know of a good installer in the DFW area?

    I'll check out that amp. I'm not too sure about the Kenwood components that I have, but I only paid $60 for them so I figured it's worth a shot...

    I'll follow up with Kenwood support and post the answer here when I get one.
     
  4. Jun 19, 2011 at 7:25 AM
    #4
    lbridges

    lbridges Well-Known Member

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    It's your $$$, but putting on sound damping material (Dynamat, RAAMat, SecondSkin, etc.) is a time consuming, but not technically difficult thing. Which means if it gets done right, it will be expensive to pay for someone to do it.

    I've done system installs for about 40 years now (amateur, not for money), and if you're technically challenged, having them put in electronics things is fine, but for the damping material it's simply a matter of pulling off door panels (Phillips screwdriver) and then peel & stick the damping product. OK, you might have to cut the material a little to fit, but that's just a pair of scissors.

    I'm not challenging you, I understand if you're in an apartment that won't let you work on your car/truck, etc. Just letting you know it's not all that hard, and you could save probably 75% of the charges by DIY.
     
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