Sundown dual SD3/Hybrid Audio audio build Q & A

You make a good point with keeping the stuff that is installed and paid for... Also i have never heard of a phase plug, a quick search shows they are for Phase correction on 10" mid bass drivers??

What is your opinion on this.....
I have a 4 channel amp.. I use 2 channels for my front 6x9s and 2 for rear door silver flutes. Then use my factory head unit and a passive x-over for my tweeters.

This is my thinking...
Tweeters dont take much to power and with a passive Xo i can filter the signal to them. Then i can use my amp to power the 6x9 HAs and 6.5 silver flutes...

 

A phase plug helps with breakup at higher (midrange) frequencies. It's pretty much irrelevant in a midbass driver - other than eating cone area.

My opinion on that next thing is that you're going to need DSP on all your channels to get this right. It won't hurt to try what you're talking about, but to nail it you need that control. Losing time alignment on your tweeters could be a disaster. Err, wait a second. You can kinda do this if you can figure out how to somewhat correct for the lack of delay in the tweeters. That is - tune TA around the tweeters. I wouldn't expect that to be easy, especially since you don't sit in the middle of the vehicle, but you can get it close-ish. Then again, IIRC you're passive up front right now so it wouldn't be a step backward or anything.

 

I neee to hear your setup out at barnwell if you make it sat

 

Well i just sent my SD3 10s back to sundown last night. There was a bit of separation from the cone and surround and it was making some noise. I found small areas on both subs so i sent both back.
Sundown is giving me a free upgrade and sending me back 2 SA 10s back! sd3 10 = 500w RMS / sa 10 = 750w RMS. So i am thinking about picking up a new amp that will run 1 ohm and that would mean i need to request different OHM load subs.

 

Did you get the new SAs yet? Did they fit in your box? I understand these are the full size subs with 6" mounting depth.

 

I actually got an email from them a couple days ago with some tracking info, turns out they should be here tomorrow, so i will be trying to install them tomorrow night or Saturday.

I cant wait to get them! Its going to suck if they dont fit but i have a temp solution that may allow me to still use the boxes i have till i can get some new ones built.

I will let you know if they fit or not...

 

Amazon has a set if you want to pick some up! haha


https://smile.amazon.com/Pair-SA-10...488473098&sr=8-2&keywords=sundown+audio+sa+10

 

Also an update to my stereo system...

I was trying to upgrade from Sundown SD3 10s to Sundown SA 10s, however with the mounting depth required or the SA's makes fitting them behind the seats a REAL PAIN. You would have to buy longer mounting bolts along with spacers to move the seat backs forward enough that the subs do not hit the back of the seats while playing.

Along with the longer bolts for the seat backs you would also have to move the latch at the top of the seats to allow for the adjustment to the bottom, along with longer bolts and spacers for the seat bottoms so that you can lift them and access the storage beneath them.

I decided that i had spent enough time and effort and money building what i originally had that i would just stick with the original speaker setup.

 

I was curious how you planned to make SA10s fit.

Food for thought. I dunno the airspace in your enclosures, but I've read a few accounts now of folks using them in even smaller enclosures than intended and getting better results than using larger enclosures. They also seem to be reasonably sensitive to smaller volume changes.

 

I didn't think the SA10's would fit without moving the seats but was hoping you were going to do it! Keep the SD3's and just push more power to them. I've seen a few setups with the SD3's and they are getting around 1000watts per sub without any problems.

 

I think i maybe pushing my amp too hard as some time the SD3s will cause my amp to clip, i was able to get the SA subs mounted in the box after adding a 3/4" mdf ring to the face of the box, i had them running off my amp for a few days and never had any clipping issues.

Strange thing is that on some songs i can get the SD3 subs to "bottom out" before they amp goes into clipping.... Not sure exactly what the issue is...

 

If you are bottoming out something isn't tuned right. Your sub is trying to play a frequency lower than what it wants to do. Could be the EQ/DSP/AMP tuning, or the box turning but since you are sealed I'd lean more towards a setting on the EQ/DSP/AMP. What frequency settings are you running on the subs? I'd suggest with a sealed box, 60-80hz range should get you a good crisp sound.

 

Typically they only bottom out when im jamming and the right frequency is played. The boxes are mounted to the rear wall and the deck so they shouldnt be moving, subs are tuned for 20hz-80hz right now on the DSP, maybe even just to 60hz.

 

So i have been experiencing a problem with my system recently. I feel as if my front passenger tweeter has a bad connection, however i have checked the door connections, amp connections, and HU connections and they look and feel good. Also my subs feel like they are playing at a 2ohm load and then all of the sudden it feels like a 4 or 8 ohm load, way weaker. At the same time this happens my door tweeter also cuts out a bit. I found better grounds for the amps but it didnt fix my problem...

Know i know that people are going to say check your connections, but the only thing i could do more is to just redo all the connections, and i really dont want to do that.

My question is... has anyone else had this issue with their subs/amps changing ohm loads while its playing?

 

Technically ones ohm load changes all the time through out the regular freq cycle. Nominal and reactive.

Most systems have a 3x rise but again this isn't really your problem. Meaning wired at 1 ohm but rises to 3 ohm and thus your power is basically what the amp does at 3 ohms.

Aside from normal/reactive your speakers/ subs should change. Doesn't really happen like that.

Your gain may be set incorrectly, your decks output voltage may have an issue, check your power and grounding on your deck.

 

Thanks man. I am going to check the harness on my DSP to make sure everything is tight there. I will pull my HU and check there also. I really think its a loose wire somewhere. Maybe the vibrations caused the connections to come loose...

 

where in the truck u fit those subs