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Supercharge 2TR-FE - Tuning questions

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by 05Taco4x4, Jul 24, 2017.

  1. Jul 24, 2017 at 11:43 PM
    #1
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 [OP] ToyotaHubs

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    I am knee deep in planning a DIY supercharger and am wondering which electronics to buy for tuning. If I get the "URD Mass Air Flow Fuel & Timing Calibrator", do I need to get anything else?
     
  2. Jul 25, 2017 at 3:24 AM
    #2
    buyobuyo

    buyobuyo Read The Fucking Manual

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    A thing or two...
    @yota243 and I are running the map-ECU3 and AFR module. @Torspd ran an older version of the map-ECU.

    I'm not sure the unit you mentioned will work on the 2tr-fe. URD doesn't list the 2tr as one of the motors that it is compatible with. URD's MAF calibrator will work on the 2tr-fe, but it doesn't do timing. If you go with the MAF calibrator, you will need the URD AFR module, so you can change closed loop AFR.
     
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  3. Jul 25, 2017 at 3:59 AM
    #3
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 [OP] ToyotaHubs

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    So you're saying...
    MAF Sensor Calibrator + AFR Sensor Calibrator = Mass Air Flow Fuel & Timing Calibrator - Timing

    How much of a difference is not having the TIMING?
    How quick can I get up and running with the map-ECU3? I'm new to all this, the URD is appealing because it looks plug-n-play.
     
  4. Jul 25, 2017 at 4:17 AM
    #4
    buyobuyo

    buyobuyo Read The Fucking Manual

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    A thing or two...
    The map-ECU3 and AFR module is what URD supplies with their supercharger kit, so they could most likely supply you with a base map to start tuning from. The map-ECU3 can also run extra injectors if you're looking at that for extra fuel. With URD's pnp harness, the map-ECU3 can be made to be pnp. You just have to solder up the harness.

    The map-ECU3 sets up pretty fast. I took a month or so between building the harness and install, but I was only working on it for a few minutes or an hour here and there. I think @yota243 got his completely installed in a day or two.

    The MAF calibrator is MAF & timing calibrator minus the timing. Both require the AFR module to adjust closed loop AFR.
     
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  5. Jul 25, 2017 at 4:18 AM
    #5
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 [OP] ToyotaHubs

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    If my understanding is correct, timing adjustments are needed to avoid detonation. Detonation starts becoming possible once the compression ration goes north of 12.6. The compression ratio in our 2TR-FE is 9.6, and we hit 12.7 at 4 pounds of boost. So, as long as I'm 4psi and under I don't need timing, and probably safe up to 6psi.
    Am I on the right track?
     
  6. Jul 25, 2017 at 3:17 PM
    #6
    buyobuyo

    buyobuyo Read The Fucking Manual

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    A thing or two...
    I don't know about when timing adjustment is required. My truck is still NA, and I haven't really had a chance to start tuning or really playing with the map-ECU3. It's in an functioning but basically just passing signals through without alteration, right now. My plan is for next year to be when I go FI. Focusing on other mods right now.
     
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  7. Jul 25, 2017 at 3:32 PM
    #7
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 [OP] ToyotaHubs

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  8. Jul 26, 2017 at 3:28 PM
    #8
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 [OP] ToyotaHubs

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    What do I do with the OE Air Pressure Sensor (OE MAP ?) ? Does the map-ECU3 intercept this too? Which brand AFR are you using, any reasons why?
     
  9. Jul 26, 2017 at 3:47 PM
    #9
    buyobuyo

    buyobuyo Read The Fucking Manual

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    A thing or two...
    The map-ECU3 has different modes that it can be setup in. The simplest/typical for our trucks is MAF Intercept so the stock MAF stays, and the signal is altered like with the URD MAF calibrator. You can also run the map-ECU3 in MAF Elimination mode and get rid of the MAF entirely. MAF Elimination essentially converts the truck to speed density. This requires building the MAF table that is fed to the stock ECU for fueling.

    I'm running PLX AFR and Vac/Boost with a pair of PLX DM-6 gauges.
     
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  10. Jul 26, 2017 at 4:03 PM
    #10
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 [OP] ToyotaHubs

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    But what about the stock air pressure sensor? Does it remain in place? If so, do I locate it before or after the SC?
    I'm reconsidering, possibly going with same setup as you, but with the Bluetooth & App vice the gauges.
     
  11. Jul 26, 2017 at 4:10 PM
    #11
    buyobuyo

    buyobuyo Read The Fucking Manual

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    A thing or two...
    There is no stock air pressure sensor. Our vehicles are MAF based. The MAF stays if you run MAF Intercept on the map-ECU3. In MAF Elimination mode, you can get rid of it. If you're running an open dump BOV, you want the MAF as close to the throttle body as you can get it. If you're running a recirculating BOV, you can run the MAF by the throttle body or pre/post supercharger.
     
  12. Jul 26, 2017 at 4:47 PM
    #12
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 [OP] ToyotaHubs

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    What's this sensor, located back of resonator?

    IMG_0963.jpg
     
  13. Jul 26, 2017 at 5:03 PM
    #13
    Torspd

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  14. Jul 26, 2017 at 5:09 PM
    #14
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 [OP] ToyotaHubs

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    It's the Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV), my bad

    IMG_1007.PNG.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2017
  15. Jul 26, 2017 at 5:11 PM
    #15
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 [OP] ToyotaHubs

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    Sooooo where should the VSV be placed, intake or output of SC?
     
  16. Jul 26, 2017 at 5:26 PM
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    MrCrowntown

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    If its a vacuum switch, you are going to want it on the vacuum side aka your intake for the charger.
     
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  17. Jul 26, 2017 at 5:38 PM
    #17
    Torspd

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    I betcha the instructions will tell ya.
     
  18. Jul 26, 2017 at 5:51 PM
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    05Taco4x4

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    What instructions?

    Edit: The pic is for installing a cai
     
  19. Jul 26, 2017 at 8:20 PM
    #19
    Torspd

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    Ahh. Had to reread the first post. DIY. :thumbsup:
     
  20. Jul 26, 2017 at 8:44 PM
    #20
    Nitori

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    You're on the right track with timing adjustments being needed, but throw your 12.6 number out the window. Detonation can happen whenever there is conditions suitable for detonation, not at some magic, predetermined CR number. It's a bit tough to explain concisely, but as your engine goes faster your timing needs to advance to keep up with the increased engine speed, but not too much such that the "power" of the flame front hits the piston before it has reached TDC and started to move back downwards.

    I'm still well within warranty, plus my Dual VVTi 2016 is apparently a 10.2 CR, but I've been sort of tossing around the idea of a low boost S/C... in a few years.:thumbsup:
     
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