Supercharge 2TR-FE - Tuning questions

Installed the PLX VAC/BOOST, I’ll install the AFR tomorrow.
Hits a little boost, then holds at 0.
I think I have a leak ¿?¿


Edit: I didn’t add any check valves, probably blowing air out everywhere I shouldn’t be. Check valves on order smh

 

Kiwi OBD does NOT show VAC/BOOST and AFR. It does show OPEN/CLOSED loop, though.
I just found out yesterday that the 2TR-FE is always CLOSED loop to 4500 RPM, then goes to OPEN. So this app is worthless to me.

Kiwi MultiGauge (free) shows VAC/BOOST and AFR, so I’ll be using that.

 

PLX should offer this

 

I found a GREAT location to mount my PLX.
The back of this bracket is curved, so I hammered it flat. Then I cut it to 2-5/8” to slide in the PLX housing.
I didn’t care for the plastic face of the latest gen AFR gauge, so I took my coping saw and file to the back panel. PLX Ackley Improved

 

Pretty innovative right there.

 

Do you know of a 170-180 thermostat for the 2TR-FE?

 

LCEPerformance.com or Paradiseracing.com one of those should have it, of it is the same as the 3rz?

If it is the same as the 1GR, then URD.

 

I was being lazy lol, I’ll look into it. I’m super tired, trying to kill time. 3:44am here, 20 hrs into my 24 hr watch

 

170: Duralast 4107
180: Duralast 4108

Material: Stainless and copper

 

Duralast are in a lot of cases made by Motorad. Good quality.

 

Finally welded in the AFR bung.
I’ve been welding a lot of aluminum lately, then went to stainless Actually, is first time I’ve ever welded stainless. I didn’t have my helmet shade correct, burned a whole the size of a dime and never saw it coming

Combine all that with tight quarters and working on my back directly under it and you get this

Not really to my standard but meeh



Location is good, crossmember is directly in front/below it.

 

Bad news...
Boost still leaks out at mounting flange, gasket didn’t work out. I’ll have to remove and rework the base

 

If it aint one thing, its two. You'll get it man

 

Make sure things are still true, and get some Toyota FIPG and try again

 

The 1/8" aluminum flange isn't ridged enough. I'm going to get a used factory manifold and cut the flange from it and weld onto my base. My SC came with one but I tossed it because I didn't have the tools I'd of needed, so I just fabbed one with scrap plate. I should have used it as an excuse to buy them, like I am now

 

Would 1/8" steel work? If that would be easier that cutting up a manifold

 

Cutting the manifold won't be an issue, I just need a band saw. I could use my sawzall and file/sander (which I considered originally but decided against it). I didn't think I could sawzall it very well because my vise isn't large enough to secure it.

 

I may only get 3psi of boost, but come hell or high water, I'm going to see this through

 

You'll get it all sorted out.

 

Found a hole, crack where I grounded a weld to make way for a bolt head. I brazzed it



I’m now at 2 PSI